Gucci已开始销售标注“中国制造”的新款奢侈运动鞋，此举打破了其意大利制造传统，有业内人士认为，这可能会在Gucci争夺中产阶级消费者的过程中削弱品牌的高端形象。
Gucci has begun selling new luxury sneaker models labelled "Made in China", a break with its Italian manufacturing tradition that some industry watchers say could undermine the brand's high-end image as it races to win back middle-class shoppers.
这一举措凸显了Gucci设计师Demna面临的挑战：他必须在控制成本以吸引所谓的“向往型消费者”（即对价格更敏感的大多数奢侈品消费者）的同时，创造创新产品。
The move highlights the challenge facing Gucci designer Demna, who must create innovative products while keeping costs under control to attract so-called aspirational shoppers, the bulk of luxury consumers who are more price-sensitive than the super-rich.
Demna将于周五（9月25日）在米兰时装秀上发布其最新系列。他的成败对母公司开云集团及去年接任、主导扭亏为盈的CEO Luca de Meo至关重要，后者虽曾让股价早期反弹，但今年涨势已趋平。
Demna will present his latest collection at a Milan runway show on Friday (Sep 25). His success is crucial for parent Kering and CEO Luca de Meo, who took over last year to lead a turnaround but has seen an early share price bounce fall flat this year.
作为开云集团的旗舰品牌，Gucci过去三年销售额腰斩，利润率受挤压，迫使集团关闭数十家门店。
Gucci, Kering's flagship brand, has seen sales halve over the past three years, squeezing margins and forcing the group to close dozens of stores.
此举让人联想到Demna在Balenciaga任职期间的做法，他打造了一款名为Drip的未来感运动鞋款。据Gucci官网显示，该鞋款标注为“中国制造”。路透社记者也在巴黎一家Gucci门店看到陈列的Drip款式带有相同标签。
In a move reminiscent of his tenure at Balenciaga, Demna has created a futuristic sneaker model called Drip. The shoe is labelled as "Made in China", according to Gucci's website. Reuters also observed Drip models displayed in a Gucci store in Paris carrying the same label.
Gucci在声明中表示，意大利“将永远是Gucci制造模式和身份的核心”，但正如过去与瑞士和日本供应商合作生产手表和眼镜一样，品牌决定与这家中国制造商合作。
In a statement, Gucci said that Italy would "always be at the heart of Gucci's manufacturing model and identity" but that it had decided to work with the Chinese manufacturer just as it had worked with Swiss and Japanese suppliers for products like watches and eyewear in the past.
声明补充道：“选定的合作伙伴提供了最适合实现我们所追求的性能和质量标准的技术专长和能力。”
"The partner selected offered the technological know-how and capabilities most appropriate for achieving the performance and quality standards we were seeking," it added.
Gucci发言人表示，没有将Gucci生产线大规模迁出意大利的计划。
There were no broader plans to move Gucci production outside Italy, a Gucci spokesperson said.
DEMNA为GUCCI设计的首款运动鞋 Drip运动鞋在Gucci官网被描述为“Demna为Gucci设计的首款运动鞋”，上个月作为设计师Primavera系列的一部分发售。
DEMNA'S FIRST SNEAKER FOR GUCCI The Drip sneaker, described on Gucci's website as "Demna's first sneaker for Gucci", went on sale last month as part of the designer's Primavera collection.
这款鞋在欧洲售价约为800欧元（约合1165新元），在美国售价为1000美元，比许多其他古驰鞋款便宜，但仍稳居奢侈品类别。这款无鞋带设计采用尼龙、帆布或麂皮制成。
Retailing at around €800 (S$1,165) in Europe and US$1,000 in the United States, it is cheaper than many other Gucci shoes, though still firmly in the luxury category. The laceless design is made from nylon, canvas or suede.
The Drip打破了古驰较为传统的白色皮质系带Ace运动鞋风格，其袜套般的造型让人联想到Demna在巴黎世家时期设计的厚底运动鞋，后者在2010年代末曾风靡街头潮流圈。
The Drip is a break from Gucci's more traditional white leather laced Ace sneakers, and its sock-like shape is reminiscent of Demna's chunky sneaker designs at Balenciaga which were a streetwear hit in the late 2010s.
古驰官网显示，同属Primavera系列的另一款皮质套脚运动鞋也标注为“中国制造”。品牌发言人表示，该款式因设计相关的类似技术原因而在中国生产。网站上标注产地的所有其他古驰鞋款均产自意大利。
A second slip-on sneaker model, made of leather, from the same Primavera collection is also labelled as "Made in China", the Gucci website shows. The brand spokesperson said that model was produced in China for similar technical reasons linked to the shoe's design.
中国是全球运动鞋生产中心，其制造商在大众市场和高端品牌中均赢得了良好声誉。然而，一些分析师表示，就古驰而言，背离“意大利制造”可能会引发反弹。
All other Gucci shoes carrying a country-of-origin label on the website are made in Italy.
贝伦贝格分析师在研报中表示：“我们认为这在产地来源与古驰寻求重塑的奢侈品定位之间制造了潜在张力。”
China is a global hub for sneaker production and its manufacturers have earned strong reputations among mass-market and premium brands. Some analysts say that in Gucci's case, however, breaking with "Made in Italy" could spark a backlash.
米兰奢侈品业务顾问Simon Whitehouse则更为直白：“‘中国制造’不好看，”他说。
"We think this creates a potential tension between provenance and the luxury positioning Gucci is seeking to reclaim," Berenberg analysts said in a note.
两位开云集团消息人士透露，作为夺回市场份额努力的一部分，该品牌也已开始对部分精选产品降价，包括在中国市场。
Simon Whitehouse, a Milan-based luxury business consultant, was more blunt. "Made in China is not a good look," he said.
巴克莱分析师Carole Madjo表示，降价令一些投资者感到意外，他们现在更加关注任何可能影响古驰在消费者心中形象的后续举措。
Two Kering sources told Reuters the brand has also begun cutting prices on a select number of products, including in China, as part of efforts to regain market Barclays analyst Carole Madjo said the price cuts surprised some investors, who are now paying increased attention to any further moves that could affect Gucci's image with shoppers.
她说：“一些人在想：如果价格下降，我们还该继续买古驰吗？推出中国制造产品可能会加剧围绕品牌价格价值方程式的争论。”
"Some people are wondering: should we keep buying Gucci if the price is coming down?" she said. "Having Chinese-made products could fuel the debate around the brand's price value equation."