日内瓦/伦敦讯 -- 瑞士运动用品制造商On(昂跑)刚与法国足球巨星基利安·姆巴佩签下赞助协议,便计划在全球扩张过程中推出一套全自动化制造系统,仅需15分钟即可生产一双鞋。
GENEVA/LONDON -- Fresh offg French soccer star Kylian Mbappe to a sponsorship deal, Swiss sportswear maker On plans to roll out a fully automated manufacturing system that can make a shoe in just 15 minutes as it expands globally.
联席首席执行官卡斯帕·科佩蒂周三对日经新闻表示,On的定价策略“非常简单:苹果在电脑和手机上就是这样做的,这需要极大的纪律性,且不进入错误的渠道。”
On's pricing strategy "is very easy: Apple has done it in computers and phones, which is taking a lot of discipline and not being in a wrong channel," co-CEO Caspar Coppetti told Nikkei on Wednesday.
根据其新的中期商业计划,On目标是到2029年将净销售额提升至56亿瑞士法郎(约合67.6亿美元),几乎是2025年30亿法郎的两倍。公司瞄准65%的毛利率,这在行业中属于最高水平。
Under its new medium-term business plan, On aims to raise net sales to 5.6 billion Swiss francs ($6.76 billion) by 2029, nearly double the 3 billion francs it posted in 2025. It is targeting a gross profit margin of 65%, among the highest in the industry.
新业务线预计将驱动增长。除了核心的跑鞋和网球鞋业务外,On正拓展足球和高尔夫鞋类及服装业务,相关产品最早将于2027年推出。
New business lines are expected to drive growth. Alongside its core running and tennis shoes, On is expanding into soccer and golf footwear and apparel, with related products set to launch as early as 2027.
公司于9月18日宣布与姆巴佩达成赞助协议。此前,姆巴佩与耐克合作约二十年,是这家美国体育用品巨头旗下最具代表性的运动员之一。
The company announced a sponsorship deal on Sept. 18 with Mbappe, who had been associated with Nike for roughly two decades, scoring one of the U.S. sporting goods giant's most prominent athletes.
据QUICK FactSet数据显示,按市值计算,耐克以约530亿美元位居全球运动鞋制造商榜首,德国阿迪达斯以约280亿美元紧随其后。On的市值约为100亿美元,落后于日本的亚瑟士。
Nike is the world's top athletic shoemaker by market capitalization, at around $53 billion, followed by Germany's Adidas with about $28 billion, QUICK FactSet data shows. On weighs in at around $10 billion, trailing Japan's ASICS. On co-CEO Caspar Coppetti, left, says he believes the company could sell far more shoes than it can make now.
On联席首席执行官卡斯帕·科佩蒂(左)表示,他认为公司销售的鞋子数量可能远超目前的产能。
But Nike's share price has languished along with its earnings, and the company was recently removed from the S&P 100 index for the first time in 18 years. Swiss media have reported that On could overtake Adidas in the running shoe market by 2027.
但耐克股价随着业绩低迷而徘徊不前,公司近期首次在18年间被剔出标普100指数。瑞士媒体报道称,On有望在2027年前在跑鞋市场超越阿迪达斯。
But Nike's share price has languished along with its earnings, and the company was recently removed from the S&P 100 index for the first time in 18 years. Swiss media have reported that On could overtake Adidas in the running shoe market by 2027.
自2010年创立以来,On凭借其CloudTec云端科技大底(旨在缓冲冲击)的普及而迅速增长。公司战略使其区别于以最低价格竞争的对手。科佩蒂表示:“我们相信,此时此刻,我们拥有最好的产品。”
Since its founding in 2010, On has grown rapidly on the popularity of its CloudTec sole technology, which is designed to cushion impacts. The company's strategy sets it apart from competition on the lowest prices. "We believe, at this moment, we have the best products," Coppetti said.
另一项创新是LightSpray,这是一种利用机械臂的生产技术。热塑性聚氨酯被转化为线状材料,喷涂到装有鞋底的鞋模上,每只鞋仅需三到五分钟即可完成鞋面制作。即使算上着色,整个生产过程也仅需15分钟。
Another innovation is LightSpray, a production technology that uses robotic arms. Thermoplastic polyurethane is transformed into thread-like material and sprayed onto a shoe mold fitted with a sole, creating the upper in just three to five minutes per shoe. Even including coloring, the entire production process takes only 15 minutes.
On的韩国工厂拥有32台LightSpray机器人单元。(On) On在苏黎世的开发管线中运营着四台LightSpray设备。今年2月,它在韩国釜山附近开设了一家配备32台设备的工厂。"通常需要400人手工制作一双鞋。有了LightSpray,我们可以完全自动化完成这一过程,"Coppetti表示。他补充说,该技术还能将从设计到商业化的时间从目前的一年多缩短至约四周。
On's South Korean factory has 32 LightSpray robot units. (On) On operates four LightSpray units for its development pipeline in Zurich. In February, it opened a factory near Busan, South Korea, equipped with 32 machines. "Normally, it takes 400 people working by hand to make a single pair of shoes. With LightSpray, we can do that fully automatically," Coppetti said. He added that the technology can also shorten the time from design to commercialization from more than a year at present to around four weeks. The South Korean plant can produce about 1 million pairs a year, but Coppetti said "we could probably sell roughly 10 times more Lightspray shoes than we can currently make." The company plans to establish another two or three facilities worldwide within two years.
韩国工厂年产量约为100万双,但Coppetti表示:"我们大概能卖出比目前产能多10倍左右的LightSpray鞋款。"公司计划在两年内在全球再建立两到三家工厂。"如果我们在自营店放置LightSpray设备,顾客就能现场定制鞋款,"他说,并补充称日本是正在考虑部署的市场之一。
"If we place LightSpray machines in our own stores, customers could create customized shoes on the spot," he said, adding that Japan is among the markets being considered for deployment. On sneakers prominently display both the Swiss flag and the label "Swiss Engineering." (Nikkei) As On expands production abroad, it is facing a backlash at home.
On运动鞋醒目地展示着瑞士国旗和"Swiss Engineering"(瑞士工程)标签。(Nikkei) 随着On在海外扩大生产,它在国内面临反弹。
Under the "Swissness" law, which took effect in 2017, industrial products can carry the Swiss flag only if at least 60% of manufacturing costs are incurred at home. Products bearing the Swiss flag can reportedly sell for 20% to 50% more than comparable goods.
根据2017年生效的"Swissness"(瑞士制造)法,工业产品只有在至少60%的制造成本在国内产生时,才能使用瑞士国旗。据报道,带有瑞士国旗的产品比同类商品能贵卖20%到50%。
Since its founding, On has produced its footwear in Vietnam and Indonesia while putting the Swiss flag on its products. Smaller manufacturers that have continued producing at home have criticized the company, saying it damages Swiss branding.
自创立以来,On一直在越南和印度尼西亚生产鞋类产品,却在产品上标注瑞士国旗。坚持在国内生产的小型制造商批评该公司,称其损害了瑞士品牌形象。
On counters that value-added costs include research and development spending. Switzerland's intellectual property authority issued guidance in March supporting that interpretation, permitting the use of the Swiss flag provided products are labeled "Swiss Engineering" rather than "Made in Switzerland." Coppetti said that On intends to continue making active use of the Swiss flag in its branding. To protect the reputation of Swiss-made quality, the company has introduced rigorous quality-control checks throughout the manufacturing process.
On反驳称,增值成本包含研发支出。瑞士知识产权局于3月发布指导意见,支持这一解释,允许使用瑞士国旗,前提是产品标注为“瑞士工程”而非“瑞士制造”。Coppetti表示,On打算继续在品牌推广中积极使用瑞士国旗。为维护瑞士制造的质量声誉,公司已在整个制造流程中引入严格的质量管控检查。
On counters that value-added costs include research and development spending. Switzerland's intellectual property authority issued guidance in March supporting that interpretation, permitting the use of the Swiss flag provided products are labeled "Swiss Engineering" rather than "Made in Switzerland." Coppetti said that On intends to continue making active use of the Swiss flag in its branding. To protect the reputation of Swiss-made quality, the company has introduced rigorous quality-control checks throughout the manufacturing process.
即便如此,国内仍有人表示不满。8月,瑞士中小企业联合会认为,修订后的解释传递了错误信号,鼓励企业将业务迁往海外,并呼吁当局撤销该决定。
Even so, some in the country are still dissatisfied. In August, a Swiss federation of small and medium enterprises argued that the revised interpretation sends the wrong signal by encouraging companies to relocate abroad and called on authorities to reverse the decision.
“瑞士在海外享有良好声誉,这很幸运,”Coppetti表示。“我认为On从中受益,但我也认为瑞士同样从中受益。”
"Switzerland fortunately enjoys a strong reputation abroad," Coppetti said. "I believe On benefits from that, but I also believe Switzerland benefits from it as well."