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关键时刻:取暖油成本飙升,燃油价格暴涨挤压法国面包师Crunch time: Fuel price spike squeezes French baguette bakers as heating oil costs soar

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约翰·莱斯特 法国圣茹斯特昂绍塞——清晨的黑暗中,小面包店的灯光亮起,闪烁不定。凯文和桑德琳·卢斯的烤炉已经升温至270摄氏度(518华氏度),要把最新一批法棍烤出酥脆的外皮。

JOHN LEICESTER SAINT-JUST-EN-CHAUSSÉE, France — As the lights of their small bakery flicker on in the early morning darkness, Kevin and Sandrine Luce’s oven is already cranked up to 270 degrees Celsius (518 degrees Fahrenheit) to give their latest batch of baguettes a crunchy crust.

今年3月,这对夫妇第一次在圣茹斯特昂绍塞的店里点燃烤炉时,花了2230欧元(2540美元)购买了烤炉所需的2000升(528加仑)取暖油。上周,他们仅购买1200升(317加仑)就花费了几乎同样的金额。

When the couple first fired up the oven in their store in Saint-Just-en-Chaussée, a small town about 90 kilometers (55 miles) north of Paris, in March, they paid 2,230 euros ($2,540) for 2,000 liters (528 gallons) of the heating oil that it burns. Last week, they spent almost the same amount on just 1,200 liters (317 gallons).

自2月28日伊朗战争爆发以来飙升的燃料价格,给这对夫妇以及欧洲各地的其他小企业造成严重冲击。

Fuel prices that have spiked since the start of the Iran war on Feb. 28 are dealing a hard blow to the couple and other small businesses across Europe.

卢斯说:“最初这原本是一笔划算的买卖,因为一开始,燃油烤炉比电烤炉更省钱。但后来(燃料)价格上涨了50%。所以,没错,现在这笔买卖不划算了。”卢斯夫妇并非个例。据法国面包糕点业全国联合会的数据,法国有超过3.4万名面包师,每年制作约60亿根法棍;该联合会表示,其中约四分之一使用燃油或燃气烤炉。

“Originally, it was a good deal, because initially, a fuel-heated oven is more economical than an electric one,” Kevin Luce said. “That is until the price (of fuel) increased by 50%. So, yes, now it’s not a good deal.” The Luces aren’t alone. There are more than 34,000 bakers across France churning out around 6 billion baguettes each year, according to the national federation of bakeries and patisseries, which says that about one quarter of them use oil- or gas-fired ovens.

顾客们排队来到店里购买早餐法棍、可颂和其他糕点时,卢斯告诉美联社:“所有这些额外的能源支出都意味着收入减少。我们没法给自己发工资,没法给员工加薪,也没法进行投资。”这场能源危机虽然在全球范围内带来痛苦,但对欧盟面积最大国家的广袤乡村和社区而言,冲击尤为沉重。法国约有2100万人居住在乡村,约占总人口的三分之一;由于公共交通有限,他们往往依靠汽车出行。农村地区占法国国土面积的近90%。

As customers filed through the bakery for their morning baguettes, croissants and other pastries, Luce told The Associated Press that “all this superfluous expenditure on energy represents a loss of earnings. It’s salary we can’t take, it’s salary increases we can’t give to our employees. It’s investments we can’t make.” Although inflicting pain globally, the energy crisis is biting particularly hard in the rural expanses and communities of the European Union’s largest country by area. The roughly 21 million people who live in the countryside — about a third of the French population — often rely on cars to get around, because public transportation is limited. Rural areas make up nearly 90% of France’s territory.

所谓“黄背心”抗议运动在埃马纽埃尔·马克龙总统第一任期内震动了法国政府,并在乡村城镇和村庄广泛扎根,抗议者在环岛路口搭建营地。

The so-called yellow vest protest movement, which rocked French President Emmanuel Macron’s government during his first term in office, put down wide roots in rural towns and villages, with protesters setting up camps on roundabouts.

部分示威活动伴随暴力,席卷法国数月。燃油价格是当时民众愤怒情绪的导火索之一。对马克龙的内阁部长们而言,这是一段至今仍挥之不去的痛苦记忆;如今,他们不得不再次应对生活成本飙升引发的焦虑和愤怒。

The demonstrations, some violent, gripped France for months. Fuel prices were one of the triggers of the anger then, a painful memory for Macron’s ministers that hangs over them now, as they wrestle with renewed angst and fury about soaring costs.

本周,法国政府推出了最新援助计划,估计价值4.5亿欧元(约合5.12亿美元),以帮助受到高得令人揪心的加油站油价冲击的民众和行业。该计划包括为上班通勤距离至少15公里(9英里)的人提供补贴,并提供48欧元至277欧元(54至315美元)的支持,帮助580万个家庭支付冬季能源账单。

The French government responded this week with its latest aid package — worth an estimated 450 million euros (around $512 million) — for people and industries battered by the eye-watering prices at the pumps. It includes subsidies for people who commute at least 15 kilometers (9 miles) to work and support ranging from 48 euros to 277 euros ($54 to $315) to assist 5.8 million families with their winter energy bills.

马歇尔·雷阿兰卖掉了自己的房子,以实现他长久以来的梦想:拥有一辆餐饮车。他开着这辆车穿梭于法国北部瓦兹地区的各个村庄,售卖咸味火腿奶酪煎饼、薯条和其他小吃。他说,给餐饮车加满柴油需要200欧元(约合228美元),而在伊朗战争爆发前只需120欧元(136美元)。

Martial Realland sold his home to help realize his long-held dream of owning a food truck that he drives from village to village in the l’Oise region of northern France, selling savory ham and cheese pancakes, fries and other snacks. Filling the truck with diesel costs 200 euros (around $228), compared to 120 euros ($136) before the Iran war, he said.

“真的很疼,”他告诉美联社,“简直是灾难。”随着秋冬季临近,他还不得不面对高得吓人的取暖账单,因为他租住的房屋使用取暖油供暖。

“It really hurts,” he told the AP. “It’s catastrophic.” And as the fall and winter loom, he’s also bracing for a sky-high heating bill, because the home that he rents is warmed with heating oil.

他说:“我害怕”收到那张账单,并估计给容量1,500升(396加仑)的油箱加满油可能需要2,500欧元(2,847美元)。“去年,这项开支是1,600欧元。”考虑到这一点,今年他可能根本不会给油箱加满油。

“I’m scared” of that bill, he said, estimating that filling his 1,500-liter (396-gallon) tank could cost 2,500 euros ($2,847). “Last year, it cost 1,600 euros.” With that in mind, he may not fill the tank at all this year.

雷阿兰说,他已经开始拒绝需要长途驾车的工作,因为从经济角度看,餐饮车消耗的柴油成本会让接下这些工作变得不值得。

Realland said he is already turning down work that requires a long drive, because the diesel that his truck burns wouldn’t make it worthwhile financially.

法国国民联盟议员克里斯蒂娜·卢瓦尔说,该党极右翼总统候选人马丽娜·勒庞所属的国民联盟共有议员,她本人在国民议会代表诺曼底大区厄尔省。该省超过10%的住宅使用取暖燃油。如今燃油价格飙升,卢瓦尔说,许多家庭无力安装其他供暖系统或改善住宅保温。

Christine Loir, a lawmaker from the National Rally party of far-right presidential hopeful Marine Le Pen, said that more than 10% of homes in L’Eure, the Normandy region she represents in the National Assembly, use heating oil. The prices for the fuel are soaring, and Loir said that many can’t afford to install other heating systems or better insulate their homes.

她正游说政府降低取暖燃油税。这种燃料在农村地区更常见,不仅用于住宅,也用于企业,包括一些面包房的烤炉。她说,一些选民告诉她,这个冬天他们将不得不在取暖和吃饭之间二选一。

She is lobbying the government to lower taxes on heating oil, which is more commonly used in rural areas, both in homes but also by enterprises, including in some bakers’ ovens. She said some constituents have told her that this winter they’ll have to choose between heating and food.

“人们非常担忧,”卢瓦尔告诉美联社,“人们说,如果燃油价格不降下来,他们就不再去上班了,因为他们实在撑不下去。”对于圣瑞斯特昂谢瑟斯卢斯面包坊的顾客来说,至少还有一点安慰:他们来这里不仅是为了面包和蛋糕,往往也是为了聊聊天。

“People are extremely worried,” Loir told the AP. “People say that if fuel prices don’t come down, they’ll stop going to work, they can’t cope.” There is at least one crumb of comfort for customers of the Luces’ bakery in Saint-Just-en-Chaussée who come not just for bread and cakes but often for a chat, too.

这里的价格并没有随着燃油价格水涨船高:普通法棍售价1欧元(约1.14美元),制作时间更长的“传统”法棍售价1.10欧元(1.25美元)。

Their prices: 1 euro (about $1.14) for a basic baguette and 1.10 euros ($1.25) for a “traditional” baguette, which takes longer to make, aren’t rising in line with fuel prices.

“我不会涨价,”他说,“那没有任何帮助,也弥补不了损失的营收,而且会适得其反,因为顾客会觉得受到背叛。他们不该多付钱。他们为家里的开销已经付得够多了。”荷兰海牙的迈克·科德为本文报道作出了贡献。

“I won’t change my price,” he said. “It wouldn’t be of any help. It wouldn’t soak up the lost revenue and it would be counterproductive, because our customers would feel betrayed. They shouldn’t have to pay more. They’re already paying enough at home.” Mike Corder in The Hague, Netherlands, contributed to this report.