中国的牛肉价格正在飙升;而在大洋彼岸的美国,养牛户们抱怨自己的生意越来越难以维持下去。在印度,养禽户们则因为无法负担饲料成本而大幅削减了生产计划。
Beef prices are soaring in China. Across the Pacific Ocean in the United States, cattle farmers are complaining that their businesses are becoming increasingly unsustainable. And in India, poultry rearers are slashing their production targets because they cannot afford feed.
全球超过90%的人口以各种形式食用肉类,而这场迫在眉睫的肉类危机可能会影响人们在市场上购买的食物、在家中烹饪的菜肴,以及餐桌上的食物种类。
More than 90 percent of the world’s population eats meat in one form or another — and a looming meat crisis threatens to affect what they buy at the market, what they cook at home, and what’s served on the table.
这场危机的根源在于一系列消费者难以察觉的决策与不确定性:一头牛需要经过多年的饲养才能成为牛肉;鸡需要饲料,而这些饲料的供应又与全球的谷物和大豆市场紧密相关;农民还需要土地、水源以及适宜的天气条件来维持动物的生存和生产力。一旦这个链条中的任何一个环节出现中断,危机就会迅速蔓延。
At the heart of this is a chain of decisions and uncertainties that consumers rarely see. A cow has to be raised for years before it can become beef. Chickens need feed, much of it tied to global grain and soya bean markets. Farmers need land, water and weather conditions that allow them to keep animals alive and productive.
那么,究竟是什么因素在给肉类生产带来压力?这对全球数十亿人来说又意味着什么呢?
When any link in this chain is disrupted, a spiralling crisis ensues. So what is putting the pressure on meat production, and what does it mean for billions of people around the world?
巴西、美国和中国的牛肉产量正在下降:这三个国家是全球最大的牛肉生产国,合计供应了全球一半以上的牛肉。然而,它们的牛群数量却在持续减少。
Declining cattle stocks in Brazil, US and China Brazil, the US and China are the world’s three biggest beef producers, together supplying more than half of the world’s beef. But their cattle herds are shrinking at the same time.
根据美国农业部(USDA)3月份的估计,巴西今年的牛群总数约为1.774亿头,比2024年的1.925亿头减少了近8%;美国的牛群数量也处于历史最低水平——2026年1月1日时,美国的牛群数量为8620万头。其中,用于繁殖的母牛数量为2760万头,比去年同期减少了1%;2025年的小牛出生数量也减少了2%。
According to a March estimate by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), Brazil’s total herd this year is estimated at 177.4 million cattle — a nearly 8 percent drop from 192.5 million in 2024. Over in the US, cattle numbers are at a historic low. The USDA counted 86.2 million cattle and calves on farms on January 1, 2026. The number of beef cows — the females needed to produce future calves — was 27.6 million, down 1 percent from a year earlier. The 2025 calf crop was also down 2 percent.
在中国,根据美国农业部的数据,2026年1月的牛群数量为9400万头,比2024年的1.05亿头减少了14%。预计2026年这三个国家的牛肉产量也都将会下降。
In China, the USDA estimated a cattle head count of 94 million in January 2026, down 14 percent from 105 million in January 2024. In all three cases, beef production is also projected to be down in 2026.
美国农业部(USDA)预测,巴西的牛肉产量将下降2%,出口量将减少5%。至于美国,2026年的牛肉产量可能会比去年低4%;而中国的牛肉总供应量预计将比2024年减少12%。
The USDA predicts a 2 percent decline in Brazil’s beef production and a 5 percent fall in exports. As for the US, beef production in 2026 is likely to be 4 percent lower than last year. China’s total beef supply this year is projected to be 12 percent lower than 2024.
由于国内牛肉产量下降,加上可进口的牛肉数量也在减少,导致作为全球最大牛肉消费国和进口国的中国牛肉价格飙升。那么,究竟是什么导致了牛群数量和牛肉产量的减少呢?原因有很多,且因国家而异。
The decline in domestic production, coupled with shrinking supplies that can be imported, has sent prices soaring in China — the world’s largest beef consumer and importer. What’s driving down cattle herds and beef production? The reasons are many, and they vary from country to country.
巴西将中国和欧盟视为其牛肉出口的主要市场。然而,这两个市场都实施了进口限制措施,这对巴西的牛肉生产商造成了不利影响。根据市场情报机构S&P Global的Augusto Neto的分析,这也是巴西牛群数量减少的部分原因。
Brazil counts China and the European Union as two major markets for its beef exports. But both have imposed import restrictions that have disincentivised Brazilian beef manufacturers. That is partly responsible for the country’s decreased cattle head count, according to an analysis by Augusto Neto at S&P Global, the market intelligence firm.
此外,根据美国农业部的数据,巴西目前正处于一个“牛群恢复周期”中:养牛户减少了牲畜的屠宰数量,转而努力保留母牛以重建牛群。
Additionally, Brazil is currently in what is known as a cattle reversion cycle — when rearers reduce the slaughter of animals and instead try to preserve their female stock to help rebuild their herd — according to the USDA.
在美国,根据S&P Global的Sampad Nandy的报告,60%的养牛区域受到了干旱的影响;随着放牧面积的减少,饲料成本也随之上升。
In the US, droughts have hit 60 percent of the country’s cattle-rearing area, according to a report by Sampad Nandy of S&P Global. With grazing areas decreasing, feed costs have risen.
本周,代表德克萨斯州、俄克拉荷马州和堪萨斯州养牛户的三个主要组织联合发表声明,指出移民与海关执法局(ICE)的突击检查正在扰乱他们本已紧张的运营。肉类行业严重依赖移民工人。如果牛肉价格在上涨,养牛户难道不应该增加牛肉产量吗?
Three major organisations, representing breeders in the states of Texas, Oklahoma and Kansas, issued a joint statement this week arguing that Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) raids were disrupting their already strained operations. The meat industry depends heavily on immigrant workers. If beef prices are rising, shouldn’t rearers want to produce more beef?
理论上来说,应该是这样的。但实际上,高价格并不一定能迅速带动牛肉产量的增加。
In theory, yes. But in practice, high prices do not automatically mean that more cattle can be produced quickly.
普渡大学农业经济学教授肯尼斯·福斯特告诉半岛电视台,牛的生产受到生物性供应周期的制约。一个生产者从市场接收到扩大生产的信号,到实际看到由此产出的牲畜进入牛肉供应,可能需要好几年时间。重建牛群最快的方式,是把原本可能被卖掉的母牛留下来用于繁殖。巴西目前正是这样做的。
Cattle production is constrained by biological supply cycles, Kenneth Foster, professor of agricultural economics at Purdue University, told Al Jazeera. It can take a couple of years for a producer who receives a signal from the market to expand production and actually see the resulting animals enter the beef supply. The quickest way to rebuild a herd is to keep female cattle that might otherwise have been sold and use them for breeding. That is what Brazil is now doing.
但这会带来一个棘手的经济算计。生产者可以选择今天以高价卖掉一头牛,也可以把它留下来繁殖,等待下一代。这意味着在等待其繁殖的过程中,要承担饲养这头牛的成本和风险。
But that creates a difficult economic calculation. A producer can sell an animal today at a high price, or keep it for breeding and wait for the next generation. That means carrying the costs and risks of keeping the animal while waiting for it to reproduce.
其结果就是,即便价格已经很高,需求强劲而供应有限的局面仍能持续存在。美国农业部预计美国的牛群将开始重建,但这一过程是渐进的。
The result is a market in which strong demand and limited supply can persist even when prices are already high. The USDA expects the cattle herd to begin rebuilding in the US, but the process is gradual.
美国和巴西的情况说明了肉类生产面临的一个核心问题:有时制约因素不是技术、土地或资金。而是时间。
The US and Brazil cases illustrate one of the central problems facing meat production: sometimes the constraint is not technology, land or money. It is time.
欧洲从牛肉转向禽肉 与此同时,欧洲呈现出另一番景象。这片大陆正在经历消费者饮食结构的转变。
Europe’s move from beef to poultry Meanwhile, Europe presents a different picture. The continent is witnessing a structural change in what consumers are eating.
欧盟在2025年生产了约4270万吨肉类。但预计2025年至2035年间,欧盟肉类产量将下降约3%,其中牛肉产量预计下降10%,猪肉下降7%。禽肉则是例外:产量预计上升5%。这一转变在消费端也显而易见。
The EU produced about 42.7 million tonnes of meat in 2025. But EU meat production is projected to decline by about 3 percent between 2025 and 2035, with beef production projected to fall by 10 percent and pork by 7 percent. Poultry is the exception: production is projected to rise by 5 percent. This shift is also visible in consumption.
预计到2035年,欧盟牛肉和猪肉消费量将持续下降,而禽肉消费量预计将增长9%。
Consumption of EU beef and pigmeat is projected to decline through 2035, while poultry consumption is expected to increase by 9 percent.
牛肉和猪肉需要更长的生产周期,并面临不同的经济和环境压力。相比之下,禽肉能够更快地响应需求变化,因为鸡只需几周而非几年就能达到出栏体重。
Beef and pork require longer production cycles and face different economic and environmental pressures. Poultry, by contrast, can respond much more quickly to changes in demand because chickens reach market weight within weeks rather than years.
这一差异正变得日益重要。经合组织-粮农组织《农业展望》预计,得益于相对较低的成本和较短的生产周期,未来十年家禽肉将成为全球增长最快的主要肉类品类。
That difference is becoming increasingly important. The OECD-FAO Agricultural Outlook expects poultry to be the fastest-growing major meat category globally over the next decade, helped by its relatively low cost and short production cycle.
因此,欧洲正成为肉类体系如何在不单纯增加所有品类产量的情况下实现适应的范例。某些肉类的生产变得更加困难或成本更高,而其他肉类则扩大生产以填补部分空白。
Europe is therefore becoming an example of how a meat system can adapt without simply producing more of everything. Some forms of meat become harder or more expensive to produce, while others expand to fill part of the space.
家禽业也面临问题——印度便是例证 然而,家禽产业自身也面临挑战,印度即提供了一个例证。
Poultry has problems too — as India shows Yet the poultry industry faces its own challenges, with India offering an example.
6月,印度大部分家禽产业宣布计划削减25%的产量,此前大豆粕价格在一个月内上涨了40%以上。
In June, a large section of India’s poultry industry announced plans to cut production by 25 percent after soya meal prices rose by more than 40 percent in a month.
全印度家禽育种协会宣布了这一决定,因生产商面临饲料成本大幅上升和季节性需求下降的双重压力。生产商还开始淘汰种鸡存栏——即用于繁育下一代家禽的鸡只。
The decision was announced by the All India Poultry Breeders’ Association after producers faced sharply higher feed costs and a seasonal decline in demand. Producers also began culling parent breeder stocks — birds needed to produce future generations of poultry.
大豆粕是动物饲料中的重要蛋白来源。当其价格急剧上涨时,家禽生产商面临抉择:吸收更高成本、提高售价,或减少饲养数量。在印度的案例中,生产商选择了削减产量。
Soya meal is an important protein source in animal feed. When its price rises sharply, poultry producers face a choice: absorb higher costs, raise prices, or reduce the number of birds they produce. dia’s case, producers chose to cut production.
后果已超出个体农场范围。路透社5月报道,印度大豆粕价格一个月内上涨41%,达到四年高点的每吨66,000卢比(约687.5美元)。随后,印度取消了2.5万吨大豆粕出口合同,并开始转向从非洲国家进口大豆。
The consequences extended beyond individual farms. The Reuters news agency reported in May that Indian soya meal prices had risen 41 percent in one month to a four-year high of 66,000 rupees ($687.5) per tonne. India subsequently cancelled 25,000 tonnes of soya meal export contracts and began turning to soya bean imports from African countries.
启示在于:农业体系某一环节的冲击可迅速传导至全球肉类供应链。
The takeaway: a shock in one part of the agricultural system can move quickly through the meat supply chain globally.
随着农民努力维护生计、家庭努力维持餐桌供应,气候变化、价格上涨、饮食偏好转变和贸易壁垒增加正共同重塑肉类的未来——以及我们的饮食结构。
As farmers try to protect their livelihoods and families try to keep food on the table, changing climates, rising prices, shifting dietary preferences and growing trade barriers are together reshaping the future of meat — and what we eat.