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迈克尔·佩林在菲律宾的评论——还有谁能与总统制造出如此奇特的时刻?Michael Palin in the Philippines review – who else could cause such a weird moment with the president?

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在菲律宾,我们的主持人观察了一群正在潘加萨岛(Pangasa Island)港口里欢快游泳的孩子们。潘加萨岛是一个位于西太平洋(传统上被称为“南中国海”区域)的小岛。他感叹道:“哦,要是我还能回到年轻的时候该多好啊……哪怕只有81岁也好!”如今,帕林已经83岁了,他的旅行生涯已经进入了第五个十年;这个时间长度甚至超过了他在“蒙提·派森”(Monty Python)乐队中作为活跃成员的时光。当然,他在屏幕上的形象并不那么引人注目或充满活力。他的观点总是表达得温和而含蓄,那些关于怀念自己80年代初那段充满活力的时光的幽默笑话,已经成为他表达方式的特色——简单、经典,甚至有些老套。

in the Philippines where our host surveys a group of children swimming gaily in the harbour of Pangasa, a tiny island in what western atlases traditionally refer to as the South China Sea. “Oh, if only I were young again,” he muses. “Eighty-one would do!” Palin is now 83 and into his fifth decade of travel presenting, which is longer than he spent as an active member of Monty Python. Naturally, he is not a dynamic or imposing presence on screen. His insights are applied with a soft, broad brush and jokes like the one about pining for the lost vigour of his early 80s are his metier now: simple, classic, corny, even.

尽管如此,在他2018年为第五频道(Channel 5)制作的纪录片中,帕林仍然前往了一些饱受冲突摧残的地区。此前他曾去过朝鲜、伊拉克、尼日利亚和委内瑞拉;不过在菲律宾,他的行程相对轻松一些——尽管那里的情况也并不乐观。

This is despite late-period Palin, in the documentaries he has made sinceg up with Channel 5 in 2018, visiting places scarred by conflict. Having previously journeyed to North Korea Iraq, Nigeria and Venezuela, he’s taking it relatively easy in the Philippines, although all is not well there, either.

网上有一个关于那些粗俗的外国记者的笑话:他们总是认为他们访问过的每个国家都是“充满矛盾与对比的地方”;帕林绝不会做出这种低俗的评论。不过,在菲律宾,这些矛盾与对比确实无处不在:贫穷与奢华并存,人们虽然热情友好,却依然表现出强烈的政治愤怒;那些本该是天堂般的地方,却因过度旅游而变得破败不堪,而实际上只需乘船短途旅行,就能找到尚未受到破坏的宁静之地。

There is an old meme about hack foreign correspondents who conclude that every country they visit is “a land of contrasts” – Palin would never stoop to such inelegance, but the contrasts in the Philippines are an inescapable theme. He sees destitution next to stately luxury, political fury expressed by warm and friendly people, and paradisiacal destinations ruined by excessive tourism when there are still untouched havens a short boat hop away.

他的旅程从马尼拉开始:当地居民正在庆祝费迪南德·马科斯(Ferdinand Marcos)这个令人憎恶的独裁者下台40周年的日子,同时也抗议腐败与不平等现象。而这个国家的现任当选领导人,正是费迪南德·马科斯的儿子——费迪南德·“邦邦”·马科斯(Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr.)。与一位反对马科斯政权的活动人士的交谈虽然简单愉快,但并没有太多深入的分析;他只是对选民这种“自毁前程”的行为感到无奈和困惑。

He starts in Manila, where citizens are celebrating 40 years since the removal of the loathed autocrat Ferdinand Marcos, while also protesting against corruption and inequality in a country whose elected leader is now … Ferdinand Marcos’s son, Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr. A chat with an anti-Marcos campaigner is pleasant without throwing up much analysis, beyond head-shaking bemusement at the electorate’s apparent act of self-harm.

但在画外音中,帕林经常提到幕后工作人员为争取拍摄许可所付出的艰辛努力——这种许可是其他影片、尤其是那些主持人声望不如他的影片可能无法获得的。很快,他便踏入了马科斯家族奢华的住所——马拉卡南宫。在灵活运用一贯幽默风格、调侃费迪南德·马科斯挥金如土的妻子伊梅尔达“确实懂得怎么买地毯”之后,他见到了小马科斯本人。

But in his voiceover, Palin regularly makes reference to hard work being done by his crew behind the scenes, to gain access that other films – ones with less respected presenters, perhaps – might not be able to score. Soon he is stepping into the lavish Marcos residence, Malacañang Palace, where – after flexing the old comic muscles by observing that Ferdinand Sr’s notorious spendthrift wife Imelda “certainly knew how to buy a carpet” – he meets Bongbong himself.

帕林坦言,小马科斯事先拒绝回答尖锐问题,因此采访中并未提问。我们的主人公也未提及自己刚在马尼拉街头所见:贫困极其严重,甚至有摊位出售大塑料袋装的“回收鸡肉”——从炸鸡连锁店垃圾桶外捡拾的残羹冷炙,经过翻炒加热后重新出售。

Palin confesses that Marcos has refused in advance to answer difficult questions, so none are asked. Our man doesn’t mention what he’s just witnessed on the streets of Manila, where deprivation is so acute that there is a stall selling large plastic bags of “recycled chicken” – scraps from the bins outside fried chicken chain restaurants, scavenged and reheated.

然而,小马科斯展现的假象令人着迷,因为它与他疏远的妹妹在国家电视台散布的传闻不符——她称他是吸毒者(他予以否认)。相反,他更像是帕林在伦敦周边郊县的企业聚会上不得不应付的那种中层管理人员:圆滑迷人,尽管他的自嘲话术极大概率是虚情假意。此外,由于他在1970年代于英国受教育,他是“蒙提·派森”剧团的超级粉丝,或许是因为这赋予了他一种幽默感,弥补了他自身缺乏幽默感的不足。帕林礼貌地应对了所有喜剧演员最不爱听的问题——关于“灵感从何而来”,而小马科斯则像个狂热粉丝般津津乐道于“鱼拍舞”环节。

However, the facade Bongbong presents is fascinating, since it doesn’t tally with rumours spread on national television by his estranged sister that he is a drug addict ( which he denies ). Instead, he is more like the sort of mid-ranking executive Palin might have to tolerate at a corporate do in the home counties: smooth and charming, despite his self-deprecating patter almost certainly being insincere. He is also, having been educated in England in the 1970s, a Python superfan, possibly because it gave him a sense of humour to borrow in lieu of possessing his own. Palin politely fields every comedian’s least favourite question – the one about where they get all their crazy ideas from – as Bongbong fanboys over the Fish-Slapping Dance.

随后,帕林前往群岛地区,目睹游艇挤满了埃尔尼多的水域,这里是网红打卡胜地;他逃离喧嚣,在一家极简微型度假村过夜,这里特意不提供热水和电力,简陋的竹屋让客人能宁静地专注于眼前绝美的海湾,四周环绕着该地区标志性的尖锐石灰岩小岛。

After that, Palin hits the archipelagos, watching as tourist boats clog up the waters at El Nido, an area popular with influencers; he escapes and spends the night instead at a restorative micro-resort that pointedly doesn’t have hot water or electricity in its bare bamboo huts, enabling guests to focus serenely on a stunning bay surrounded by the region’s signature jagged limestone islets.

然而,紧张与冲突从未远离——如今它们正从海外逼近。本集在一次军用飞行中结束,目的地是帕林的当地向导坚称的“西菲律宾海”,即菲律宾声称拥有主权的西部海域。中国对此持不同意见,因此,当潘加萨岛上的孩子们嬉戏玩耍时,地平线上挤满了中国船只;当帕林登船驶入有争议水域时,一艘中国海警船警告他们掉头返回。法律上他们无义务服从,但稳妥的选择是照做。

Yet tension and strife are never far away – and these days they’re encroaching from abroad. The hour concludes with a military flight to what Palin’s local guide firmly labels the West Philippine Sea, a part of the ocean to the west that the Philippines claims. China disagrees and so, as the children on Pangasa play, the horizon teems with Chinese craft; when Palin boards a boat and sails into disputed waters, a Chinese coastguard vessel warns them to turn back. Legally, they’re not obliged to, but the safe option is to comply.

三集中的第一集已播毕,帕林正致力于为世界的一个角落提供又一份可靠的入门指南,那里发生的事情比许多西方人所知的要多,主要是因为那里出了太多问题。但感觉有迈克尔·帕林在,似乎没有什么坏事是无法化解的——他那在万物中发现人性之乐的持久能力,比以往任何时候都更显珍贵。

With the first of three episodes down, Palin is on the way to providing another assured primer on a part of the world that has more going on than many westerners may know about, mainly because so much has gone wrong there. But it feels as if nothing can be too bad if Michael Palin is there – his enduring ability to find joy in all things human is more precious than ever.