去年,日本为了安抚因主粮价格飙升而愤怒的选民,向大米市场投放紧急储备粮。如今,情况截然相反:供过于求。
Last year, Japan was flooding its rice market with emergency stockpiles in a bid to mollify voters angered by the soaring price of its staple grain. Now, it has the opposite problem: a glut.
这对消费者是好消息,但这种剧烈反转正伤害着浅野宏(Hiroshi Asano,音译)这样的人。这位59岁的农民在东京附近的千叶县耕种着相对较大规模的38公顷水田。他预计今年将亏本,并担心小规模农户无法生存。
That’s welcome news for shoppers, but the whiplash is hurting people such as Hiroshi Asano, 59, who farms a relatively large 38 hectares of rice fields in Chiba, close to Tokyo. He expects to make a loss this year, and he’s worried smaller-scale farmers won’t be able to survive. “I’ve been hearing about quite a few people who plan to give up this year,” Asano said, looking out across his windblown fields.
望着风吹过的田野,浅野说:“我听说今年打算放弃种植的人不少。”这位前卡车司机晚年转行务农,先是接手妻子家族的田地,随后又扩展到了亲戚和邻居弃耕的土地。
The former trucker turned to farming later in life, first taking over his wife’s family fields and then expanding to land abandoned by relatives and neighbors. Extremes of weather — including record rainfall in the past few weeks — along with rising costs for machinery and lower prices for their product have all added up to insurmountable problems for many in an already-shrinking sector.
极端天气——包括近几周的创纪录降雨——加上机械成本上升和产品价格下跌,所有因素叠加,让本已萎缩的行业陷入难以逾越的困境。
The number of farmers plunged by more than half from 2.4 million in 2000 to less than a million in 2026 as the population aged, according to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestries and Fisheries.
据农林水产省数据,随着人口老龄化,农民数量从2000年的240万骤减至2026年的不足100万,跌幅超半。以务农为主业的人群中(不含法人经营),约70%年龄超过65岁。浅野表示,父母越来越不愿将农场传给已另谋出路的子女。
About 70% of people whose primary occupation is farming, not including for incorporated businesses, are over 65. Parents are increasingly reluctant to hand their farms down to children who have found other paths in life, Asano said. Japan’s rice producers operate under production guidelines and import restrictions meant to protect them from price slumps and help ensure food security.
日本稻农在生产指导方针和进口限制的框架下运作,旨在保护他们免受价格暴跌冲击并确保粮食安全。这意味着本地市场走势常与国际市场背道而驰——今年便是如此。
That means the local market often moves counter to international counterparts — as is the case this year. But the system cracked after an unusually hot summer in 2023 produced the lowest yield in more than 10 years.
2023年夏季异常炎热,导致稻米产量降至10多年来最低点,供应体系随之崩塌。与此同时,疫情结束后餐厅客满为患,稻米需求激增,政府发布潜在地震预警又引发囤积抢购。购物者有时在当地超市买不到大米。
At the same time, rice demand surged as restaurants filled up after the pandemic, and a government warning about a potential earthquake prompted hoarding. Shoppers sometimes struggled to find rice at local supermarkets. As consumer worries threatened to blow up into a crisis, the government for the first time tried to relieve shortages by gradually releasing reserves.
随着消费者担忧有演变成危机之势,政府首次尝试通过逐步投放储备粮来缓解短缺。但在抛售了59万吨(约一个月供应量)大米后,有人认为时任农林水产大臣小泉进次郎做得太过了。
But in selling off 590,000 metric tons, or about a month’s supply, some think then-agriculture minister Shinjiro Koizumi went too far. “Essentially Koizumi did not need to release that much stockpiled rice last year,” said Asano.
浅野说:“本质上,小泉去年没必要投放那么多储备米。大家都在说米价贵,所以投放过多,现在反而过剩了。”此外,去年丰收导致供过于求,因为官方预测未能预判到米价上涨、饮食习惯改变和人口老龄化导致消费量下降的程度。
“People were saying rice was expensive, so they released too much, and now there’s an excess.”On top of that, last year’s harvest exceeded demand, after official forecasts failed to predict the extent of the drop in consumption prompted by rising prices, changing eating habits and an aging population.
据农林水产省数据,截至9月20日,超市5公斤装大米价格降至约2934日元(合18.70美元),为两年多来最低;1月曾触及4400日元以上的高点。
The price of a 5-kilogram bag of rice at supermarkets dropped to about ¥2,934 ($18.70) as of Sept. 20, its lowest in more than two years, according to the agriculture ministry.
作为回应,农林水产省宣布将回购约21万吨大米以补充储备。然而,三菱综合研究所研究农业政策的研究员稻垣公男表示,即使政府补充了储备,价格仍可能继续下跌。
It had hit a peak of more than ¥4,400 in January. In response, the ministry has announced that it will buy back about 210,000 tons of rice to replenish its stockpiles.
浅野说,作为许多农民中间商的日本农业协同组合(JA),今年每60公斤糙米收购价不足1.5万日元,而去年为3万日元。
Yet, even if the government replaces its reserves, prices are likely to keep declining, said Kimio Inagaki, a fellow at Mitsubishi Research Institute who researches farm policy.
他正试图通过种植有机稻、自行加工包装成品来增加收获附加值。这使他能将买家群体从农协拓展至当地米店和个人客户。
Asano said the Japan Agricultural Cooperatives, who act as middlemen for many farmers, are paying him less than ¥15,000 per 60 kg of unprocessed rice this year, down from ¥30,000 the previous year. He’s trying to add value to his harvest by growing organic rice, processing it, and packaging the final product himself.
小农户无力自行加工和包装大米,因此被迫接受合作社提供的价格,他说。
This has enabled him to diversify his buyer base beyond the cooperative to local rice shops and individual customers.
当然,消费者正从更便宜的大米中受益,不仅是在超市,三家便利店连锁也宣布降低其热门饭团的价格。
Smaller farmers cannot afford to process and package rice themselves, so they are forced to accept the prices they’re offered by the cooperative, he said.
但政府正寻求稳定市场。农林水产省已更新其大米预测模型,纳入人口变动、入境旅游和出米率等实时趋势,据其在一份声明中表示。根据新修订的食品法,官方还要求食品加工企业和餐饮业者报告库存和销售数据,以更清晰地掌握市场流通情况。
Of course, consumers are benefiting from cheaper rice, and not only at the supermarket, with three convenience store chains announcing reductions to the prices of their popular rice balls. But the government is seeking to stabilize the market. The agriculture ministry has updated its rice forecasting model to incorporate real-time trends, such as population shifts, inbound tourism, and milling yields, it said in an Under a newly revised food law, officials are also requiring food processors and food service businesses to report inventory and sales data to gain clearer visibility into market distribution.
尽管如此,研究农业政策的日本大学教授西川邦夫认为,鉴于供过于求的程度,大米价格明年大概率将继续下跌。他补充说,政府应提供补贴帮助农户维持生计,但警告这在政治上可能难以实现。
Still, Kunio Nishikawa, a professor at Nihon University who researches agricultural policy, agrees rice prices will probably keep on falling next year, given the extent of the oversupply. He added that the government should offer subsidies to help keep farmers in business, while warning this could be politically difficult.
农户浅野主张政府设定大米保护价,按他测算的维持生计水平,即每60公斤约2万日元,以帮助减缓从业者流失。他计划继续经营,已引入无人机等技术,并让家人参与进来。
Farmer Asano advocates a government-set price floor for rice at what he calculates is a livable level of around ¥20,000 for 60 kilograms to help slow the outflow from the sector. He plans to stay in the business, having introduced technology such as drones and brought family members on board.
“现在农场变得这么大,我想:如果我退出,其他这些人该怎么办?”他说。“但如果只有我一个人,我可能早就放弃了。”
“Now the farm has become this big, I think: If I quit, what are all these other people going to do?” he said. “But if it were just me, I might have given up already.”