马来西亚吉隆坡——马来西亚正致力于将榴莲这一气味浓烈、令爱好者着迷却让厌恶者避之不及的水果，从路边摊和家庭果园推向更广阔的舞台，以说服这种带刺水果的粉丝，其众多品种值得专门寻觅。
KANIS LEUNG KUALA LUMPUR, Malaysia — Malaysia is pushing to take durian, whose powerful smell delights its lovers and repels its haters, beyond its roadside stalls and family orchards to convince fans of the spiky fruit that its varieties are worth seeking out.
榴莲爱好者品尝榴莲的方式如同品酒。对于马来西亚的榴莲而言，其浓郁奶油般的果肉在不同品种间风味差异巨大。有些品种因其甜美的蛋奶和果香而备受推崇，另一些则以微苦、酒香甚至花生酱风味著称。
Devotees savor durians like wine. For Malaysian ones, the taste of their rich and creamy flesh varies widely across types. Some are prized for their sweet custard and fruity notes, others for a hint of bitterness, an alcohol tinge or even a peanut butter flavor.
马来西亚人提升榴莲产业的努力，可以在首都吉隆坡找到体现，那里有一座专门致力于榴莲及其日益丰富的衍生产品的中心。
Malaysians’ efforts to elevate the industry can be found in the capital, Kuala Lumpur , at a center devoted exclusively to the fruit and the growing variety of products made from it.
在靠近地标性建筑双子塔的吉隆坡榴莲体验中心，游客可以走进一个仿真的榴莲果园，探索这种水果的文化与历史。在另一间屋子里，一场剧场表演引得观众阵阵欢笑。楼下，游客则可以享用由榴莲制成的拼盘和蛋挞。
At the Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre, near the landmark Petronas Twin Towers, visitors venture into a replica durian orchard to discover the fruit’s culture and history. In another room, a theater show draws laughter. Downstairs, visitors enjoy platters and egg tarts crafted from it.
该中心于今年夏季开业，投资近200万美元，是一座两层建筑，占地约1900平方米（20450平方英尺），每天开放。其榴莲商店从清晨营业至午夜。
Launched this summer after an investment of nearly $2 million, the two-story center spans about 1,900 square meters (20,450 square feet) and is open daily. Its durian shop welcomes guests from morning to midnight.
该中心创始人黄志文（Edison Ang）表示，该中心的目标客户既包括本地消费者，也包括游客，尤其是来自全球最大榴莲进口国中国的游客。他说，中国人的味蕾长期以来深受泰国榴莲文化的影响。
Its founder, Edison Ang, said the center targets both local customers and tourists, especially those from China, the world’s biggest durian importer . He said Chinese palates have long been influenced by Thai durian culture.
“我们现在真正希望的，并不是让不吃榴莲的人开始吃榴莲，”他说，“而是希望那些已经在吃其他国家榴莲的消费者，转而选择马来西亚榴莲。”根据中国海关数据，2025年中国进口了187万吨新鲜榴莲，价值75亿美元，进口量在过去十年间增长了六倍多。
“What we actually hope for now is not to get people who don’t eat durian to start eating durian,” he said. “Instead, we hope consumers who are already eating durian from other countries will switch to Malaysian durian.”In 2025, China imported 1.87 million tonnes of fresh durian worth $7.5 billion, with volume jumping over six times in the past decade, according to its customs data.
泰国凭借更早进入市场的优势，在2025年按价值计算已占据中国市场逾半份额。2024年才开始向中国出口鲜食榴莲的马来西亚，当时规模相形见绌。但2026年上半年，中国自马来西亚进口鲜食榴莲的价值较去年同期激增四倍，显示出快速增长的势头。
Thailand’s earlier entry helped it secure over half that market by value in 2025. Malaysia, which began exporting fresh durian to China in 2024, was dwarfed. But for the first half of 2026, the value of China’s fresh durian imports from Malaysia quadrupled compared with the same period last year, pointing to rapid growth.
与竞争对手不同，马来西亚种植户通常不采摘早熟果，而是只收集自然成熟、落入网兜或绳索中的果实。
Unlike their rivals, Malaysian growers typically do not harvest early, instead collecting only naturally ripened fruit caught in nets or ropes as they fall.
安格表示，这是行业最大的优势，也是最大的劣势，因为卖家必须与时间赛跑，榴莲的保质期最多只有两到三天。任何延误都会影响品质。他透露，当他的库存因海关查验滞留数天时，退款率随之攀升。
That’s the industry’s biggest advantage and also its biggest weakness, Ang said, as sellers have to race against time because the fruit’s shelf life is at most two to three days. Any delays would affect its quality. When his stock got held up for several days during customs checks, his refund rate climbed, he said.
DKing创始人余伦龙（Leron Yee，音译）表示，榴莲销售也对经济状况敏感，其业务涵盖出口和内销。中国经济表现好时，他的生意就会好转；但如果中国消费者购买力下降，他就需要寻找替代市场。他说：“这是奢侈品，而非必需品。”
Durian sales are also sensitive to economic conditions, said Leron Yee, founder of DKing, whose business covers both export and domestic markets. When the Chinese economy performs well, his business improves, but if the buying power of Chinese consumers falls, he needs to find alternative markets, he said. “It is a luxury, not a necessity,” he said.
企业正在发掘榴莲深加工的商机。余伦龙的公司销售榴莲果肉、榴莲味巧克力和麻糬——甚至在中秋节前推出榴莲月饼。
Businesses are finding opportunities in what the fruit can become. Yee’s business sells durian paste, durian-flavored chocolate and mochi — and even mooncakes ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival.
DurianBB创始人蔡逸文（Adrian Choy，音译）的公司在咖啡馆提供榴莲冰淇淋、甜品和榴莲干，以及用猫山王品种调味的咖啡等产品。其品牌还提供果园导览游。
DurianBB founder Adrian Choy’s company offers durian ice cream, desserts and dried durian at a cafe, alongside coffee flavored with the Musang King variety and other items. His brand also offers guided farm tours.
7月，蔡逸文的品牌更进一步，推出了一款散发甜美花香的榴莲花香水。
In July, Choy’s brand went a step further and launched a durian flower perfume that smells sweet and floral.
蔡逸文表示，拓展衍生产品很重要，因为这能为食材本身增值，并使其业务差异化，即便竞争对手打价格战也能保持竞争力。
Choy said branching into other products is important because it will add value to the food itself and differentiate his business, even when others compete on price.
“食物就是食物，”他说，“你不能因为品牌不同就加价50%。”在中国各地，榴莲专卖店如雨后春笋般涌现，其中一些专门经营马来西亚品种。在北京，“蒋先生”榴莲店销售的拼盘价格大致在300元至1000元人民币之间（约合44至150美元），具体取决于果肉重量和所选品种。
“Food is food,” he said. “You cannot sell it like 50% more because your branding is different.”Across China, durian specialty shops have mushroomed, with some specializing in Malaysian varieties. In Beijing, the Jiang Sir durian shop sells platters priced roughly between 300 and 1,000 yuan (about $44 to $150), depending on the weight of the pulp and the varieties chosen.
该店员工侯雨欣对同类店铺的增多表示欢迎，并淡化了竞争带来的压力，称这将有助于推动马来西亚榴莲的市场发展。她指出，如今许多人在前往马来西亚旅行时都想品尝榴莲。
Its employee, Hou Yuxin, welcomed the growing number of similar shops and brushed off pressure from competition, saying it would help boost the market for Malaysian durians. She noted many people now want to enjoy durians during their trips to Malaysia.
在吉隆坡安先生的中心，来自上海的张亨利是其中一位。张在大学时期开始吃榴莲，这是他第一次见到比手掌还小的榴莲。
Back at Ang’s center in Kuala Lumpur, Henry Zhang was one of them. Zhang, a visitor from Shanghai who started eating durian during his university days, saw a durian no bigger than his palm for the first time.
他表示，马来西亚的榴莲比泰国的更细腻，风味也各不相同。他对该中心提供的不只是水果这一点印象深刻。
He said Malaysian ones were creamier than those from Thailand and had different flavors. He was impressed by the center offering more than just the fruit.
“我可能还会吃其他国家的榴莲。但吃完之后，我可能会更加想念马来西亚的榴莲，”张说。
“I may still eat durians from other countries. But after eating them, I may miss Malaysian ones even more,” Zhang said.