
暑假来临的时候,克里斯·纳尔逊非常担心他的母亲。每到夜晚,他都会彻夜未眠,等待母亲的归来;白天则不断给家人打电话,询问她的安危。此外,还有人通过门缝向他们发送威胁信件。“我害怕出门,”他告诉半岛电视台(Al Jazeera)。
When the summer holidays arrived, Chris Nelson worried about his mother. At night, he lay awake waiting for her to return. During the day, he rang family members to ask if she was safe. There were threats and letters through the door.
他的母亲罗丝玛丽·纳尔逊是一名律师,曾在20世纪90年代末代表那些反对新教“奥兰治秩序”(Orange Order)游行的天主教居民。每年7月,当游行季节临近时,双方总会发生对峙。
“I was afraid to leave the house,” he told Al Jazeera. His mother, Rosemary Nelson, was a lawyer representing the Catholic residents opposing the Protestant Orange Order parade along Portadown’s Garvaghy Road in Northern Ireland in the late 1990s.
“奥兰治秩序”的成员们坚持沿他们认为属于自己的传统路线行进;而当地天主教居民则反对这个反天主教组织穿过这条以天主教徒为主的街道。有些年份,警方会强迫游行队伍继续前进;而在其他年份,游行则会被阻止。
Every July, as marching season approached, there was a standoff. Orangemen sought to return from Drumcree church along what they regarded as their traditional route.
罗丝玛丽常常在夏夜与居民们一起待在加瓦吉路(Garvaghy Road)上。每天晚上出门前,她都会告诉儿子:“我会去照顾那些家庭,确保他们的孩子们都安全。”她把那些居民比作克里斯小学时的朋友们。
Residents opposed the passage of the anti-Catholic organisation through a majority Catholic street. In some years, police forced the parade through. In later years, it was blocked.
“她非常热衷于帮助弱势群体,”现年39岁的克里斯说道,“她做了很多无偿的工作。”她的母亲帮助了社区里来自不同阵营的人们。每当有时间,全家会前往边境对面的邦多兰(Bundoran)度过一个宁静的夏天——那时,恐惧暂时会消失。
Rosemary would spend summer evenings alongside the residents on Garvaghy Road. Before leaving home each evening, she told her son that she was going to look after families and make sure their children were okay. She compared them to his friends at primary school.
然而在1997年的一个夜晚,当政府警察(皇家阿尔斯特警察队,Royal Ulster Constabulary,RUC)使用警棍驱散天主教居民时,罗丝玛丽遭到了警方的殴打,还被吐口水、身上满是淤青和血迹。
“She was a big believer in helping the underdog,” said Chris, now 39.
“那段经历非常痛苦……我一直担心母亲会出什么事。”1999年3月的一个星期一,也就是《耶稣受难日协议》(Good Friday Agreement)结束冲突近一年后,罗丝玛丽离开了她在拉根(Lurgan)的家。
“She did a lot of work for free.”His mother helped people from both sides of the community.
当她在附近的一个路口刹车时,她汽车下方的一枚炸弹突然爆炸了。她八岁的女儿莎拉当时正在附近的小学上学,听到了爆炸声。这家人上周末还一起在邦多兰度过了愉快的时光。
When work allowed, the family went to Bundoran, across the border, and for a day the fear would pass. But one night, during a standoff in 1997 when the state police force, the Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC), used batons to clear Catholic locals from the road, “she was beaten by the police”, said Chris. “She was spat on”, bruised and bloodied.
当时11岁的克里斯和他的哥哥正在参加学校的滑雪旅行,当他们接到关于她去世的消息时,他们感到非常震惊。“那真的太难接受了……”克里斯说道,他的声音渐渐低了下去。
“That was very traumatic. I was always thinking something was going to happen to my mum.”On a Monday in March 1999, nearly a year after the Good Friday Agreement brought an end to the conflict, Rosemary drove away from her home in Lurgan.
失去的遗产近三十年后,又一次冲突再次将这些童年记忆变成了对下一代的恐惧——新教“奥兰治秩序”组织试图再次穿过天主教社区,这威胁到了脆弱的和平局势。
As she braked at a nearby junction, a bomb beneath her car exploded.
这场冲突始于20世纪60年代末,当时天主教徒为反对歧视而发起的抗议活动遭到了镇压和暴力对待。共和派准军事组织为统一爱尔兰而斗争,而忠诚派及英国军队则试图维护英国的统治,这场冲突导致超过3500人死亡。
Her eight-year-old daughter, Sarah, was at primary school nearby and heard the blast. The family had spent the previous weekend in Bundoran together.
1998年的《耶稣受难日协议》为和平与权力共享奠定了基础。根据该协议,波塔当的居民在过去28年里一直生活在相对和平的环境中。
Chris, 11 at the time, and his older brother were away on a school ski trip when they received a phone call with the news of her death. “That was hard”, he said, his voice tailing off.
然而,高等法院在最后一刻允许这次游行活动的决定打破了这种平静。作为回应,天主教居民封锁了道路;许多居民在路边露营,而“奥兰治秩序”的成员则聚集在道路尽头,等待警方的许可才能继续前行——这种分裂的景象至今仍未消失。
A legacy of loss Nearly three decades later, another standoff has recast these childhood memories into fears for the next generation, with a renewed attempt by the Protestant Orange Order to march through the Catholic neighbourhood, threatening to unravel a fragile peace. The Troubles began in the late 1960s as protests by Catholics against discrimination were met by repression and violence.
2026年9月27日,在北爱尔兰的波塔当,这些“奥兰治秩序”的成员从德拉姆克里教堂出发,准备向加瓦吉路行进,但他们的行进在距离目的地不远的地方就被警方制止了。[法新社(AFP)] 加瓦吉路的许多居民现在都是父母,他们担心自己的孩子会继承这场早已应该被遗忘的冲突所带来的后果。
Republican paramilitaries fought for a united Ireland as loyalists and the army battled to preserve British rule, in a conflict that killed more than 3,500 people. The 1998 Good Friday Agreement established a framework for peace and power-sharing.
北爱尔兰“帕特·菲努肯人权中心”(Pat Finucane Centre)的保罗·奥康纳(Paul O’Connor)表示,罗斯玛丽·纳尔逊(Rosemary Nelson)是21名因德拉姆克里冲突而丧生的人之一。
Under the agreement, the people of Portadown have lived in relative peace for the past 28 years.
许多人仍在接受调查;他们的家属继续寻求正义,并要求进行公开调查,因为他们担心英国政府与那些效忠英国的准军事组织之间存在勾结——其中许多组织成员都属于“奥兰治协会”(Orange Order)。
But this was suddenly unsettled by a last-minute decision by the High Court to allow the march.
“这些谋杀案包括了当时由‘忠诚志愿军’(LVF)实施的犯罪行为,所有这些案件都与‘德拉姆克里事件’(Drumcree incidents)有关。这些组织当时对米德阿尔斯特(Mid Ulster)地区的多起谋杀案负有责任;他们的目的是破坏和平进程,导致了一系列骚乱,其中一些骚乱甚至蔓延到了德里(Derry)。”奥康纳(O’Connor)告诉半岛电视台(Al Jazeera)。
In response, Catholic residents blocked the road. Many camped out as Orange men gathered at the top of the road, awaiting police permission to pass – an image of division that never truly left.
他曾与罗斯玛丽·纳尔逊(Rosemary Nelson)合作,现在他也在推动对肖恩·布朗(Sean Brown)谋杀案的公开调查。肖恩是来自德里郡(County Derry)贝拉吉(Bellaghy)的61岁父亲,他有六个孩子,于1997年5月遭到绑架并杀害。
Portadown Orangemen march from Drumcree Church to start their march towards Garvaghy Road, which was stopped a short distance later by police, in Portadown, Northern Ireland on September 27, 2026 [AFP] Many of the Garvaghy Road residents are now parents, and fear what their children might inherit from a dispute they hoped had been left behind. Paul O’Connor, of the Pat Finucane Centre human rights group in Northern Ireland, said Rosemary Nelson is among 21 people whose deaths were linked to the Drumcree dispute.
次年,理查德(Richard,10岁)、马克(Mark,9岁)和杰森(Jason,8岁)三兄弟在安特里姆郡(County Antrim)的巴利莫尼(Ballymoney)家中睡觉时,因房屋被效忠英国的武装分子投掷汽油弹而丧生。他们的死亡事件引发了广泛要求“奥兰治协会”结束其对抗行为的呼声。
Many are still being investigated, with families continuing to seek justice and pressing for public inquiries amid concerns about collusion between the British state and loyalist paramilitaries, many of which were members of the Orange Order. “These murders encompass LVF (Loyal Volunteer Force) killings at that time, and are all linked to the Drumcree disputes. They were responsible for many of the killings around the Mid Ulster area at that time. They were trying to destabilise the peace process, with many riots spreading around, including into Derry,” O’Connor told Al Jazeera.
2026年9月27日,抗议者封锁了北爱尔兰波塔当(Portadown)的加瓦吉路(Garvaghy Road),阻止了“奥兰治协会”的游行队伍通过这条主要位于民族主义地区的道路。[法新社(AFP)]在波塔当市中心,人们充满恐惧与仇恨;一面英国国旗悬挂在那些纪念“阿尔斯特防御团”(Ulster Defence Regiment)的纪念碑旁。该部队是由当地人招募的英国军队单位;另一面纪念碑上则刻着《阿尔斯特公约》(Ulster Covenant)的文字——这份文件签署于1912年,当时近50万人反对爱尔兰的自治计划。
He worked with Rosemary Nelson and is now seeking a public inquiry into the murder of Sean Brown, another Drumcree-linked case, he believes. The 61-year-old father of six from Bellaghy, County Derry, was abducted and murdered in May 1997. The following year, the three Quinn brothers – Richard, 10, Mark, nine, and Jason, eight – died after loyalists petrol-bombed their home in Ballymoney, County Antrim, as they slept.
在附近的埃德加斯敦(Edgarstown)住宅区,路灯杆上悬挂着“阿尔斯特志愿军”(UVF)的旗帜;路边的墙壁被漆成了红、白、蓝三色;此外,那里还有一幅“流浪者足球俱乐部”(Rangers FC)的壁画。
Their deaths, during the unrest surrounding Drumcree, brought widespread calls for the Orange Order to end its standoff.
该地区是联合主义(unionism)的据点之一。“奥兰治协会”成立于1795年,其总部设在距离德拉姆克里仅几英里的拉夫加尔(Loughgall)村。
Protesters block the Garvaghy Road in Portadown, Northern Ireland on September 27, 2026, preventing a parade of marchers from the Orange Order using the route through the mainly nationalist area of the town [AFP] Fear and loathing in Mid Ulster In Portadown town centre, a Union flag flies among plinths dedicated to the Ulster Defence Regiment, a locally recruited unit of the British army and the Ulster Covenant – a document signed when nearly 500,000 people opposed a form of self-government for Ireland in 1912. Around the corner, in the Edgarstown housing estate, Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) flags hang from lampposts, and the kerbs are painted red, white and blue, alongside a mural of a Rangers FC badge.
奥兰治会成员表示,他们自1807年以来一直沿加瓦吉路游行。自1998年以来,游行被禁止通过加瓦吉路,但奥兰治会成员持续提交游行申请。
The area is one of the heartlands of unionism. The Orange Order was founded in 1795 in the village of Loughgall, a few miles from Drumcree.
游行委员会最新裁决允许35名男子在无音乐伴奏的情况下行进。此后,奥兰治会成员多次走近警方防线,随后返回教堂。
The Orangemen say they have marched the route through Garvaghy Road since 1807. The parade has been blocked from Garvaghy Road since 1998, but the Orangemen have continued submitting requests to march.
2026年10月1日,北爱尔兰波塔当埃德加斯敦住宅区,阿尔斯特志愿军旗帜与英国国旗并排飘扬 [Caolán Magee] 爱尔兰民族主义者批评支撑允许游行决定的警方评估,而联合主义者谴责警方未能强行清除阻挡路线的抗议者。
The latest Parades Commission decision permitted 35 men to walk without music.
半岛电视台联系了三大主要联合主义政党——民主统一党(DUP)、传统统一之声(TUV)和阿尔斯特统一党(UUP)——寻求置评,但未获回应。
Since then, Orangemen have repeatedly approached the police line before returning to the church.
效忠派活动家杰米·布赖森在波塔当面对约200名支持者发表讲话,将抗议者描述为“非法的咆哮暴民”。
UVF flags fly alongside UK flags in the Edgarstown estate, Portadown, Northern Ireland, on October 1, 2026 [Caolán Magee] Irish nationalists have criticised the police assessment underpinning the decision to allow the march, while unionists have denounced police for failing to forcibly remove protesters blocking the route.
他呼吁首席部长、新芬党的米歇尔·奥尼尔和警务总监乔恩·布彻辞职,并要求必须允许奥兰治会成员走加瓦吉路。奥尼尔因站在抗议者身边而面临批评。
Al Jazeera contacted the three main unionist parties – the Democratic Unionist Party (DUP), the Traditional Unionist Voice (TUV) and the Ulster Unionist Party (UUP) – for comment but received no response. Addressing around 200 supporters in Portadown, loyalist activist Jamie Bryson described protesters as “an unlawful snarling mob”.
在德拉姆克里教堂,奥兰治会成员没有游行,而是坐下来喝茶吃薯片。约六名男子,其中一人佩戴绶带,在寒风中挤在凉亭下取暖。
He has called for the First Minister, Sinn Fein’s Michelle O’Neill, and police Chief Constable Jon Boutcher to resign, and demands that the Orange men must be allowed to walk the Garvaghy Road. O’Neill has faced criticism for standing beside the protesters.
“我们正耐心等待警务总监适用国家法律,”波塔当奥兰治会区长奈杰尔·道森告诉半岛电视台。
At Drumcree Church, the Orangemen were not marching, but sitting down drinking tea and eating crisps.
“波特当区历史上从未曾阻止过沿这条道路举行的游行,以便与邻里发生对抗,绝无此事。所以我不知道这种恐惧和忐忑究竟从何而来。”
Around six men, one wearing his sash, huddled under a gazebo in the cold.
另一位要求匿名的奥兰治会成员补充道:“我们决心在周日礼拜后回家……我们只想回家。” 2026年10月1日,北爱尔兰波特当,奥兰治会成员在德拉姆克里教堂外等待沿加瓦吉路通行 [Caolán Magee] 沿着加瓦吉路再往前约一英里处,爱尔兰民谣乐队“玛丽·瓦洛珀斯”为数百名居民和支持者献唱。
“We are waiting patiently for the chief constable to apply the law of the land,” Nigel Dawson, the Portadown Orange Order district master, told Al Jazeera. “Portadown District has never in its history stopped a parade down the road to have a confrontation with its neighbours, ever. So I don’t know where the fear and trepidation comes from.”
孩子们在路堤上跳舞、滑行,父母们在上方注视。巴勒斯坦国旗和爱尔兰国旗在风中飘扬。
Another Orangeman, who requested anonymity, added: “We are determined to get home after Sunday service … We just want to go home.”Orange Order members sit outside Drumcree church as they await passage along Garvaghy Road in Portadown, Northern Ireland, on October 1, 2026 [Caolán Magee] Around a mile further down the Garvaghy Road, Irish folk band the Mary Wallopers performed to hundreds of residents and supporters.
家住加瓦吉路的琳达·奥尼尔(Linda O’Neill,51岁)告诉半岛电视台,三十年前这番景象简直无法想象。
Children danced and slid down the embankment, as parents watched from above.
“青少年时期在这里长大简直是噩梦。我们只待在自己的社区,不敢去镇中心……这个社区就是个贫民窟。而且这是蓄意造成的。”另一位居民基兰·奥费盖尔(Ciaran O Ferghail)回忆起曾在英军包围中度过的夏天。
Palestine and Ireland flags flew in the wind. Linda O’Neill, 51, a Garvaghy Road resident, told Al Jazeera the scene would have been unimaginable 30 years ago.
“这个社区被变成了战区。到处都是坦克和英军,数千名皇家阿尔斯特警察(RUC)。每年夏天,这个社区都在奥兰治会、英军、皇家阿尔斯特警察和保皇派准军事组织的包围下完全处于围困状态。我们在每条路上、每个方向上都被包围了。”奥尼尔说,随着居民开始主张权利,对抗局面发生了改变。
“It was horrendous growing up as a teenager. We stayed in our own community. We didn’t access the town centre … This community was a ghetto. And that was deliberate.”Another resident, Ciaran O Ferghail, remembered summers spent surrounded by British forces.
1995年,数百人在加瓦吉路坐下阻拦游行。随后安全部队与奥兰治会成员及其保皇派支持者发生暴力对峙,最终以妥协允许游行通过而告终。居民们说,他们当时以为那将是最后一次。
“This community was turned into a war zone. There were tanks and British Army everywhere, thousands of RUC. This community was completely under siege every summer, by the Orange Order, the British military, the RUC and loyalist paramilitaries. We were surrounded on every road and in every direction.”O’Neill said the confrontation changed as residents began asserting their rights. In 1995, hundreds sat down on Garvaghy Road to block the parade.
但第二年夏天,游行又回来了。警方起初阻拦游行,但在五天大规模保皇派袭击后改变主意。警察强行将居民赶离道路并殴打他们,引发天主教社区骚乱。
The ensuing violent standoff between security forces and Orangemen and their loyalist supporters ended in a compromise allowing the march through. Residents say they understood it would be the last. But the following summer, the parade returned.
1997年,安全部队在黎明前封锁了天主教社区,并在忠派威胁如果阻止游行将杀害天主教徒的情况下,于中午允许游行通过。随后爆发了民族主义者的抗议和暴力冲突。从1998年起,游行被禁止通过加瓦吉路。但对居民而言,夏季仍由军队的钢铁路障所标记,直到2000年。
Police initially blocked it, then reversed course after five days of widespread loyalist attacks. Officers forced residents off the road and beat them, sparking riots in Catholic communities. In 1997, security forces sealed off the Catholic neighbourhood before dawn and allowed the parade through at midday amid loyalist threats to kill Catholics if it was stopped. Nationalist protests and violence followed.
孩子们在堤坝上玩耍,音乐在北爱尔兰波塔当的加瓦吉路上回荡,摄于2026年10月1日 [Caolán Magee] 过去的教训 今年近40岁的克里斯·内尔森,年龄与他母亲遇害时大致相同。加瓦吉路抗议活动是他首次选择公开谈论母亲。
From 1998, the march was banned from Garvaghy Road. But for residents, summers remained marked by the army’s steel barricades until 2000.
他后来上大学学习法律,但表示如果母亲还在,他的人生轨迹会截然不同。
Children play on the embankment as music rings out along Garvaghy Road in Portadown, Northern Ireland, on October 1, 2026 [Caolán Magee] Lessons from the past Chris Nelson, almost 40, is around the same age his mother was when she was killed.
针对他母亲之死的公开调查未发现证据表明国家安全机构“直接协助”了谋杀,但“无法排除”这些机构的个别成员曾协助凶手的可能性。
The Garvaghy Road protests mark the first time he has chosen to speak publicly about his mother.
在试图继续生活的过程中,调查反复将过去带回他面前。但看到家庭在加瓦吉路手挽手的照片,让他无法避免地想起了母亲。
He went on to study law at university, but says his life would have followed a different trajectory if she were still here. The public inquiry into his mother’s death found no evidence that state security agencies had “directly facilitated” her murder, but it “could not exclude the possibility” that individual members of those agencies had helped the perpetrators.
“如果她在,她就会在那里,”他说,“站在加瓦吉路民众一边”。
The inquiry brought the past back repeatedly as he tried to get on with his life.
虽然波塔当没有发生暴力,但在德里的沃特赛德,最近两晚发生骚乱,有人向警方投掷汽油弹和砖石。警方形容第二晚的人群多为年轻人。
But seeing photographs of families linking arms on Garvaghy Road brought back unavoidable memories of his mother. “If she were here, that’s where she would be,” he said, “standing with the people of the Garvaghy Road”.
再次试图让奥兰治教团游行通过加瓦吉路,可能在双方儿童心中留下印记。随着部分学校停课,克里斯·内尔森担心父母不得不向孩子解释正在发生的事情。
While there has been no violence in Portadown, in Derry’s Waterside, two recent nights of disorder saw petrol bombs and masonry thrown at police. Officers described the crowd on the second night as mostly young people.
“孩子们不会忘记事情,”他说。“他们会吸收一切。”他记得每晚等母亲时的感受,以及那份担忧如何伴随他度过暑假。他希望现在成长的孩子们能有不一样的经历。“孩子们不该在了解天主教和新教的区别中长大。“这不该是灌输给孩子心中的东西。”
The renewed attempt to bring the Orange Order parade through Garvaghy Road risks leaving its mark on children on both sides. With some schools closed, Chris Nelson worries about parents having to explain to their kids what is happening. “Children don’t forget things“, he said. “They absorb everything.” He remembers how it felt waiting for his mother each night, and how that worry followed him through the summer holidays. He wants something different for the children growing up now. “Children shouldn’t grow up knowing the difference between Catholic and Protestant. “It isn’t something that should be brought into the mind of a child.”
2026年10月1日,北爱尔兰波塔当,背景中有爱尔兰三色旗,前景是一块“加瓦吉路说不”的标语牌 [Caolán Magee]
A ‘Garvaghy Road says no’ sign with an Irish tricolour in the background in Portadown, Northern Ireland, on October 1, 2026 [Caolán Magee]