阿姆斯特丹最 exclusive 街区之一的居民已将市政府告上法庭，原因是该市批准了一家在 TikTok 上爆红的薯条店营业。法庭上周获悉，在繁忙的日子里，位于 Runstraat 的 Fabel Friet 薯条店排起的长队甚至延伸到了凯泽斯运河（Keizersgracht）——阿姆斯特丹三大主要运河之一——上的一座桥梁。这条狭窄的街道本身也挤满了每周七天都在等待取餐的游客。此外，海鸥们带着“意图”四处徘徊——停在汽车上、街道上以及台阶和门廊上——伺机俯冲抢食。
People living in one of Amsterdam’s most exclusive neighbourhoods have taken the city to court for licensing a chip shop that has gone viral on TikTok On busy days, the queue for Fabel Friet on Runstraat stretches across a bridge on the Keizersgracht – one of Amsterdam’s three main canals – a court was told last week. The narrow street itself is crowded by tourists waiting for their orders seven days a week. And loitering with intent – on parked cars, on the street itself, and on steps and porches – gulls wait to swoop.
“我们正处于一种战争状态，一家极不受欢迎的薯条店污染了整个区域，”住在附近的托马斯·范·利乌温（Thomas van Leeuwen）说。“在街上吃东西是一种可耻的行为。它把肮脏的食物弄到我们家门口，把蛋黄酱弄到美丽的石头上。海鸥已经搬进来成了‘居民’，最糟糕的是老鼠泛滥成灾。”十九位邻居正式对 Fabel Friet 的营业执照提出抗议，该店的招牌产品是撒有帕尔马干酪并淋上松露蛋黄酱的薯条。首席原告尼克·范德海登（Niek van der Heijden）表示，问题在于这家外卖店规模太小。
“We are in a kind of war where a very unwelcome chip shop has polluted the whole area,” said Thomas van Leeuwen, who lives nearby. “Eating in the street is a shameful behaviour. It gets filthy food on our doorsteps and mayonnaise in the beautiful stone. The herring gulls have moved in as residents, and the worst thing is the rat infestation.”Nineteen neighbours have formally protested against the business licence for Fabel Friet, whose signature product is fries topped with parmesan cheese and truffle mayonnaise. Niek van der Heijden, the lead plaintiff, said the problem was the takeaway’s small size.
“我们所说的 Fabel Friet 的‘TikTok 长队’造成了最大的困扰，”他说。“经营活动都在街上进行：等待点餐、等待上餐、进食。我们希望 Fabel 搬到一个有足够空间让顾客在室内用餐的地方。”周二上午，在座无虚席的法庭上，阿姆斯特丹市议会的一名律师承认，如果商业活动对“居住和生活环境”产生负面影响，市长费姆克·哈尔瑟玛（Femke Halsema）可以拒绝发放经营许可证。
“What we call the ‘TikTok queue’ for Fabel Friet causes the most nuisance,” he said. “The business takes place on the street: waiting to order, waiting to be served, eating. We want Fabel to go to a place where there is enough room to have clients inside.”In a packed courtroom on Tuesday morning, a lawyer for Amsterdam city council acknowledged that the city’s mayor, Femke Halsema, can refuse a licence to operate if the “residential and living environment” is negatively affected by a business.
她表示，虽然这家薯条店遵守了许可证中关于管理排队和清理垃圾的义务，但“这种情况已经持续了很长时间，影响依然严重，我们必须问：我们能容忍这种状况多久？”她说，对于当前的许可证，市政府将依据法庭的裁决行事。
While the chip shop, she said, sticks to its licence obligations to manage the queue and clear litter “it has been going on for a long time, the impact remains severe, and you have to ask: how long can we tolerate this?”For the current licence, she said, the city would be guided by the court’s ruling.
这家店的老板阿贝尔·克拉策尔和弗洛里斯·费尔泽表示，他们每周七天、每天四次聘请清洁服务。自四家新分店开业后，今年8月的客流量同比减少了23%。“有些邻居觉得受到打扰，但也有人喜欢来这里吃薯条，”他们的律师格特扬·特乌文说道，“店里有时会很热闹，但客流量也有高峰和低谷期。”
The shop’s owners, Abel Klatser and Floris Feilzer, said they employed a cleaning service seven days a week, four times a day, and that year-on-year visitor numbers had dropped by 23% this August after they opened four new locations“A few neighbours have experienced nuisance, but other people enjoy eating chips,” said Gertjan Teeuwen, their lawyer. “It can be busy, but there are peaks and troughs.”
克拉策尔和费尔泽在公开声明中称，他们竭尽全力做一个好邻居，却遭到了不公正的指责。“‘Fabel Friet’就像我们的孩子，我们倾注了全部心血，”他们说，“如果有人恶意诋毁我们的生意，我们真的会感到很痛苦。”
Klatser and Feilzer said in a public statement that they felt unfairly attacked while doing their best to be good neighbours. “Fabel Friet is our child, and we have put our heart and soul into it,” they said. “It is painful if people talk about our business negatively.”
这起事件并不仅仅是所谓的“表演式旅游”引发的矛盾——即游客蜂拥而至只为在社交媒体上发布照片。邻居们的代理律师丽莎-鲍比·坎普指出：“这些小街道虽然迷人，但实际上并不具备容纳如此多人流的空间。这其实涉及公共空间的占用权、所有权以及能否随意使用的问题。”阿姆斯特丹大学的博士生玛丽耶·佩乌特曾研究过“网红效应”对街区的影响。
The case goes beyond irritations about so-called performative tourism, where tourists flock to a place to post images on social media. “The tiny streets might be charming, but actually the space is not designed for so many people,” said Lisa-Bobbie Kamp, a lawyer for the neighbours. “This is a question of taking space, who owns the place and whether you can just use public space.”Marije Peute, a PhD student at the University of Amsterdam, has studied the effects of “viral urbanism” in the neighbourhood.
她表示：“市政府必须认真思考该如何应对，因为这关系到公共空间的使用。许多历史悠久的零售店都因此失去了本地顾客，因为大家都不愿再光顾了。”
“The municipality should really think about how they want to act, because this is about the public space. A lot of much older retail spaces have lost their local clients because they don’t want to go there any more,” she said.
基督教民主呼吁党的议员罗吉尔·哈费拉尔表示，虽然法贝尔薯条店或许应该在更合适的地点获得一家“旗舰店”许可证，但旅游业给城市带来的益处不应被忽视。“如果仅为居民服务，阿姆斯特丹绝不会拥有如此多的博物馆、餐厅、娱乐场所和剧院，”他说。“而且旅游业提供了7万个就业岗位。如果旅游业消失，阿姆斯特丹将面临巨大的财政问题。”
Rogier Havelaar, a councillor from the Christian Democratic Appeal party, said that, while Fabel Friet should probably be offered a “flagship store” licence in a more suitable location, the benefits of tourism to the city should not be overlooked. “Amsterdam would never have as many museums, restaurants, going-out spots and theatres if they were only for the residents,” he said. “And tourism provides 70,000 jobs. Amsterdam would have a gigantic financial problem if tourism went away.”
站在凯泽运河上的桥上，几名被TikTok吸引而来的德国实验室学徒正享用着薯条。娜塔莉·斯图本说，人群管理员刚让他们离开民宅附近。“无论是开车还是走路，要穿过这里都很难，”她说。“我想我们当时没考虑会打扰邻居，但这说得通。”
Standing on the bridge over the Keizersgracht, some German laboratory apprentices drawn by TikTok were enjoying their chips. Natalie Stübben said crowd managers had just asked them to move away from people’s houses. “It’s pretty hard to get through here with a car or just by walking,” she said. “I don’t think we were thinking about annoying the neighbours, but it makes sense.”
如果该商业地点在11月12日的法院判决后“完蛋”了，其中一些邻居会感到欣慰。“这些人全都被他们的‘更高力量’——网红——所引导，并自称‘追随者’，这件事非常令人不安，”范勒文说。“这简直是奥威尔式的。这场官司是靠游客生存的寄生产业的一部分。”
Some of those neighbours will be pleased if the business location has had its chips after the court verdict on 12 November. “There’s something very alarming about the fact that these people are all led by their higher power – influencers – and call themselves followers,” said van Leeuwen. “It’s Orwellian. This court case is part of the parasitic industry that lives on tourists.”