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华夫饼屋指数帮助南方人——以及联邦应急管理署——衡量风暴的严重程度The Waffle House Index helps Southerners — and FEMA — gauge a storm's severity

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2018年9月16日,飓风“弗洛伦斯”过境后,卢克·丘吉尔(左)与妻子玛丽及他们的孩子凯蒂、利亚姆和雷根站在北卡罗来纳州威尔明顿一家营业的华夫饼屋餐厅外冒雨等候。(美联社照片/查克·伯顿,资料图)Luke Churchill, left, stands with his wife Mary and their children, Katie, Liam and Raighan, as they wait in the rain outside an open Waffle House restaurant in Wilmington, N.C., after Hurricane Florence traveled through the area on Sept. 16, 2018. (AP Photo/Chuck Burton, File)

汉娜·肖恩鲍姆(HANNAH SCHOENBAUM) 黄金土豆饼、淋满肉汁的饼干以及搭配大量糖浆的脆皮华夫饼,都是经典的南方慰藉美食。然而,当飓风席卷东南部城镇时,当地“华夫屋”(Waffle House)提供的热食和醒目的黄色招牌,则带来了另一种慰藉。

HANNAH SCHOENBAUM Golden hash browns, gravy-smothered biscuits and crispy waffles with a hearty helping of syrup are among the classic Southern comfort foods. But when hurricanes tear through Southeastern towns, the hot meals and bold yellow signs of the local Waffle House provide another kind of comfort.

如果镇上仍有“华夫屋”营业,哪怕只是有限开放,邻居们也会感到安心,认为即将到来的风暴不太可能造成毁灭性破坏。而这家可靠连锁餐厅的门店一旦关闭,则意味着灾难即将降临。这一衡量标准被称为“华夫屋指数”。

If a Waffle House stays open in town, even in a limited capacity, neighbors are reassured that the coming storm is unlikely to cause devastation. A closed location of the dependable diner chain has come to indicate impending disaster. The metric is known as the Waffle House Index.

这种听起来或许有些荒谬的逻辑,已成为南方人——甚至联邦官员——评估风暴严重程度、识别最需要紧急援助社区的最可靠方式之一。

What might sound like silly logic has become one of the most reliable ways for Southerners — and even federal officials — to gauge a storm’s severity and identify communities most in need of immediate aid.

这个南方人最信赖的“灾害权威”,提供了一种非正式指标,用以衡量一场风暴将如何影响或已经影响了某个社区。

The South’s favorite disaster authority provides an informal measure of how significantly a storm will affect or has affected a community.

该连锁品牌在东南部和中大西洋地区拥有超过1900家门店,其分布地图帮助风暴多发州的居民判断自己是否可能遭遇停电、严重洪水或其他极端天气,而这些情况甚至可能导致一家以坚韧著称的餐厅被迫关门。对某些人来说,这还是一个明显的信号,提示他们是否需要撤离。

A map of the chain’s over 1,900 locations, concentrated in the Southeast and mid-Atlantic, helps residents of storm-prone states assess whether they’re likely to lose power, experience severe flooding or endure other extreme conditions that might cause a resilient restaurant to close its doors. For some, it’s a telltale sign of whether they need to evacuate.

“华夫屋”不仅以全年365天、每天24小时供应早餐而闻名,更因其出色的灾害应对能力而备受认可。几十年来,整个南方地区的人们都注意到,在风暴期间,当地的“华夫屋”似乎总是唯一一家仍在营业的店铺,或者在风暴过境后最先重新开业的餐厅。

Waffle House is known not just for serving breakfast 24/7, 365 days a year, but also for its disaster preparedness. For decades, people across the South have noticed that the local Waffle House seemed to be the only business still open during a storm or the first to reopen after it passed.

当人们迫切需要取暖、为电子设备充电或吃上一顿热饭时,这家连锁餐厅始终屹立不倒的声誉,逐渐成为一种相当可靠——尽管略带幽默——的灾后恢复进展参考。该公司甚至还设立了专属的风暴应急中心。

The restaurant chain’s reputation for remaining open when people desperately needed a place to warm up, charge devices and grab a hot meal became a fairly reliable — albeit amusing — resource to help track recovery efforts. The company even operates its own storm center.

Waffle House 在社交媒体上发布了部分地区的餐厅位置彩色地图,这些地区即将受到风暴影响,或正在从风暴灾害中恢复。美国联邦应急管理局(FEMA)也提供了一些实时追踪信息。

Waffle House’s social media shares color-coded maps of its restaurant locations in certain regions that will soon be hit or are recovering from storm damage. The Federal Emergency Management Agency also offers some live tracking.

绿色表示该餐厅提供完整菜单,说明周边地区受损轻微。灯光亮起,糖浆也已备好。

Green means the location is serving a full menu, indicating minimal damage in the surrounding area. The lights are on and the syrup is flowing.

黄色表示餐厅仅提供有限菜单,这意味着餐厅正在使用发电机供电,食物储备可能不足。该地区可能没有自来水或电力,但仍有足够的燃气为饥饿的顾客煎培根。

Yellow means the restaurant is serving a limited menu, a signal that it’s pulling power from a generator and might have a low food supply. The area might not have running water or electricity, but there’s enough gas to fry up bacon for hungry customers.

红色表示该餐厅已关闭,表明运营环境不安全,且餐厅或周边社区遭受了严重破坏。

Red means the location is closed, a sign of unsafe operating conditions and severe destruction to the restaurant or nearby communities.

前 FEMA 局长克雷格·富盖特(Craig Fugate)曾表示,他在 2004 年领导佛罗里达州的应急管理工作时,构思了“Waffle House 指数”。当时,他在考察飓风“查理”造成的破坏时想找点吃的,却只找到一家提供有限菜单的 Waffle House。

Former FEMA Administrator Craig Fugate has said he thought up the Waffle House Index while leading Florida’s emergency management efforts in 2004. He had been searching for something to eat while surveying the devastation left by Hurricane Charley and was only able to find a Waffle House serving a limited menu.

他的团队随后注意到,在没有电力或自来水的社区中,仍有其他 Waffle House 在营业。这些餐厅最终成为彩色地图上的关键标志,他的团队通过这张地图帮助公众和地方政府确定风暴破坏最严重的区域。

His team began to notice other open Waffle Houses in communities without power or running water. The restaurants eventually became a key feature on a color-coded map that his team provided to help the public and local officials identify where storm damage was most severe.

富盖特在加入奥巴马总统时期的 FEMA 后,继续使用这张彩色地图。2011 年,他担任该机构局长时,一场致命龙卷风席卷了密苏里州的乔普林市。据报道,该市的两家 Waffle House 都保持营业。

Fugate continued to use his color-coded map when he joined FEMA under President Barack Obama. He was the agency’s administrator in 2011 when a deadly tornado tore through the town of Joplin, Missouri. Both of the town’s Waffle Houses reportedly stayed open.

这家连锁餐厅的灾害应对能力并非偶然。2005 年飓风“卡特里娜”期间,有 7 家门店被毁,另有 100 家门店关闭,但公司高管发现,那些迅速重新开业的餐厅业务量却大幅飙升。

The restaurant chain’s disaster readiness is no coincidence. Seven locations were destroyed and 100 more shut down in 2005 during Hurricane Katrina, but company executives saw business skyrocket at restaurants that reopened quickly.

根据该公司网站的说法,他们很快便采用了一项以在灾难期间及灾后保持餐厅正常运营为核心的商业策略。该连锁企业表示,他们已投资购买便携式发电机、购置了移动指挥中心,并对员工进行了培训,让他们了解在停电情况下仍可以提供哪些服务。

They soon embraced a business strategy centered around keeping their restaurants operable during and after a disaster, according to the company’s website. The chain said it has invested in portable generators, bought a mobile command center and trained employees on what they can still serve if they lose electricity.