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当天气还很热的时候,谁还需要冬季外套?气候变化正在颠覆时尚产业Who needs winter coats when it's still hot? Climate change is upending the fashion industry

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张元英于2026年9月29日星期二抵达法国巴黎,出席迪奥(Christian Dior)2027春夏女装系列发布会。(照片来源:美联社/托马斯·帕迪拉)Jang Won-Young arrives at the Christian Dior Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (Photo: AP/Thomas Padilla)

更长、更热的夏季正在扰乱时尚界的季节性日程,迫使奢侈品牌调整设计,并威胁到利润率更高的冬季服装销售。

Longer, hotter summers are disrupting fashion's seasonal calendar, forcing luxury brands to adapt designs and threatening sales of higher-margin winter clothing.

该行业的传统周期长期以来都依赖消费者在气温下降时购买秋冬服装。但日益温暖的秋季正在推迟人们对大衣和其他御寒服装的需求,使零售商面临库存过剩和降价促销的风险。

The industry's traditional cycle has long depended on consumers buying autumn and winter clothing as temperatures cool. But warmer autumns are delaying demand for coats and other cold-weather clothing, leaving retailers at risk of excess stock and markdowns.

在巴黎,圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)在时装周期间投放的户外广告中,一名模特裹着厚重的大衣,而阳光普照,游客们则穿着T恤和短裤在街头漫步。

In Paris, Saint Laurent billboard ads during Fashion Week showed a model wrapped in a thick fur coat, while the sun shone and tourists wandered the streets in T-shirts and shorts.

2026年9月29日星期二,一名模特在法国巴黎展示圣罗兰2027春夏女装系列中的一款作品。

A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026.

“整个行业都应该意识到,随着气候变化和气温升高,销售大衣的时间已经向后推迟了,”零售行业顾问保·阿尔马(Pau Almar)表示。他此前曾在扎拉(Zara)工作十年。

"The whole industry should realise that with climate change and higher temperatures, the time for selling coats has shifted later," said Pau Almar, a retail industry consultant who previously spent a decade at Zara.

这种脱节在巴黎时装周上表现得尤为明显:当时气温高达28摄氏度(82.4华氏度),许多宾客选择了无袖上衣和迷你裙,而非刚推出的秋季系列。

The disconnect was on show during Paris Fashion Week, where temperatures reached 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 degrees Fahrenheit) and many guests opted for sleeveless tops and mini skirts rather than newly released autumn collections.

通常,在九月底举办的春夏时装秀上,宾客们都会穿着刚刚在商店上市的秋冬产品。然而,在路易威登(Louis Vuitton)周二举办的秀场上,大衣却寥寥无几。

Typically, guests at spring/summer runway shows held at the end of September come dressed in autumn/winter products just released in stores. At Louis Vuitton's show on Tuesday, however, coats were scarce.

一名模特身着圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)2027春夏女装系列中的设计款服装,于2026年9月29日星期二在法国巴黎亮相。(美联社照片/特雷莎·苏亚雷斯)A model wears a creation as part of the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring Summer 2027 collection presented in Paris, France, Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2026. (AP Photo/Teresa Suarez)

“我真不敢相信巴黎这里已经是十月了,我当时还希望自己能从迈阿密带些夏季衣物过来,”秀场嘉宾苏西·巴克利·伍德沃德(Suzy Buckley Woodward)说。

"I can't believe it's October here in Paris and I was wishing I brought some of my summer clothes from Miami," said Suzy Buckley Woodward, a guest at the show.

“我的销售助理在秀场前给我推荐了很多大衣,但我告诉他们这会是浪费,因为我觉得自己几乎不可能需要穿大衣参加这场秀,”她补充道。

"My sales associate was putting a lot of coats in front of me for the show, and I said that's gonna be a waste because I think it's very unlikely that I'll need a coat for the show," she added.

设计调整与零售风险:路易威登女装设计师尼古拉·盖斯奇耶已开始调整其设计,他表示欧洲创纪录的极端热浪对他的最新系列产生了“深远影响”,该系列以轻薄面料和透气结构为特点。

ADAPTING DESIGNS, RETAIL RISKS Louis Vuitton's womenswear designer Nicolas Ghesquiere is already adapting his designs, saying Europe's record heatwaves had a "strong influence" on his latest collection, which featured thin fabrics and airy constructions.

“我们的重点是,如何打造几乎像泳装一样、如同第二层皮肤般的服装,”他在周二秀场结束后对记者说道。

"The focus was on how do you do clothes that are like swimwear almost, like a second skin," he told reporters after Tuesday's show.

2026年10月6日,在法国巴黎时装周期间,一名模特在巴黎展示路易威登2027春夏系列中设计师尼古拉·盖斯奇耶的作品。路透社/Sarah Meyssonnier 上周的炎热天气导致一些穿着秋季服装的客人在迪奥的春夏秀场上感到过热,尽管T台上方已安装了吊扇。

A model presents a creation by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere as part of his Spring/Summer 2027 collection for fashion house Louis Vuitton during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, October 6, 2026. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier The warm weather last week left some guests in autumn clothing overheating at Dior’s spring/summer show in the Tuileries Gardens, despite ceiling fans installed above the runway.

2026年10月6日,在法国巴黎时装周期间,一名模特展示路易威登(Louis Vuitton)时装屋设计师尼古拉·盖斯奎尔(Nicolas Ghesquiere)的2027春夏系列作品。路透社/莎拉·梅索尼耶A model presents a creation by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere as part of his Spring/Summer 2027 collection for fashion house Louis Vuitton during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France, October 6, 2026. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier

持续的高温也给大众时尚零售商带来了挑战:随着商店开始用夹克和针织品取代T恤,他们面临不得不打折处理过剩库存的风险。

The continuing high temperatures also pose a challenge for mass-market fashion retailers as stores begin to replace T-shirts with jackets and knitwear, facing the risk of having to discount excess stock.

阿尔马表示,零售商将不得不适应销售更少厚重外套、更多过渡性层搭服装的现实。

Retailers will have to adapt to selling fewer heavy coats and more transitional layers, Almar said.

由于外套类服装通常利润更高,因此利润可能面临压力;而冬季的延迟则可能导致更多消费者等到11月底的“黑色星期五”折扣季才购买新外套。

Profits could come under pressure as outerwear is typically higher-margin, and a delayed winter risks more shoppers waiting until end-November Black Friday discounts to pick up a new coat.

在周六举行的爱马仕时装秀上,时尚博主姐妹Snehal和Jyoti Babani表示,是天气而非时尚日程决定了她们的着装。

At the Hermes runway show on Saturday, fashion influencer sisters Snehal and Jyoti Babani said the weather, rather than the fashion calendar, had dictated their outfits.

“这真的是秋冬季节吗?”Snehal说,“如果夏天越来越热,春夏与秋冬之间的界限就会变得非常模糊。”

"Is this really fall/winter?" Snehal said. "If the summers are getting hotter, the line between spring/summer and fall/winter will get really blurred."