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白银价格高企威胁勒克瑙著名的婚嫁纳格拉鞋工艺High silver prices threaten Lucknow’s famed bridal nagra craft

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两款由印度卢克瑙第四代工匠兼店主贾巴尔·侯赛因制作的银色纳格拉婚鞋 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 两款由印度卢克瑙第四代工匠兼店主贾巴尔·侯赛因制作的银色纳格拉婚鞋 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Two styles of silver nagra wedding shoes made by Jabbar Hussain, a fourth-generation craftsman and shopkeeper in Lucknow, India [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] Two styles of silver nagra wedding shoes made by Jabbar Hussain, a fourth-generation craftsman and shopkeeper in Lucknow, India [Aatif Ammad/Al Jaz

贵金属价格实际上早在2022年初俄罗斯入侵乌克兰时就开始上涨,但经济学家表示,随着美国和以色列对伊朗的袭击,价格出现了显著上涨。

Prices for precious metals actually began rising with Russia’s invasion of Ukraine back in early 2022, but economists say prices surged significantly with the US and Israeli attacks on Iran.

2023年,印度的银价在每公斤725美元(70,000卢比)至830美元(80,000卢比)之间波动,2024年升至约985美元(98,000卢比)。但今年,随着伊朗冲突的加剧,银价一度飙升至每公斤高达4,670美元(450,000卢比),随后在停火后有所回落。即使现在,经过一定程度的下跌,银价仍在每公斤约2,600美元(250,000卢比)左右徘徊,比几年前的水平高出三倍多。

In 2023, silver prices in India largely fluctuated between $725 (70,000 rupees) and $830 (80,000 rupees) per kilogramme, rising to around $985 (98,000 rupees) in 2024. But this year, amid the conflict with Iran, silver prices briefly soared as high as $4,670 (450,000 rupees) per kg before easing after the ceasefire. Even now, after some decline, prices are hovering around $2,600 (250,000 rupees) per kg, more than three times their levels just a few years ago.

纳格拉正在制作中,设计通过锤击在银片背面完成,随后将其安装到鞋上 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]A nagra is being crafted, with the design hammered onto the reverse side of the silver sheet before it is fitted onto the shoe [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]
纳瓦布·阿卜杜拉·汗在其宫殿中佩戴着他和妻子婚礼时所穿的精致纳格拉——他表示,这些是他收藏中最古老的珍品 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Nawab Abdullah Khan in his palace with the intricately designed nagras he and his wife wore at their wedding - he says they are the most antique pieces in his collection [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]
阿扎尔·侯赛因正在制作一双纳格拉,这一过程需要高度专注和数小时的细致工作 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 阿扎尔·侯赛因正在制作一双纳格拉,这一过程需要高度专注和数小时的细致工作 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Azhar Hussain makes a nagra, a process that requires intense concentration and hours of painstaking work [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] Azhar Hussain makes a nagra, a process that requires intense concentration and hours of painstaking work [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]

印度工商部经济学家和国际贸易专家萨拉赫丁·艾尤布博士表示,地缘政治冲突引发了全球大宗商品市场前所未有的波动。

Dr. Salahuddin Ayyub, an economist and international trade expert with India’s Ministry of Commerce and Industry, said geopolitical conflicts have triggered unprecedented volatility in global commodity markets.

工匠使用锤子和卡兰(制作纳格拉的两种最重要工具),在银片上进行操作 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 工匠使用锤子和卡兰(制作纳格拉的两种最重要工具),在银片上进行操作 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]A craftsman uses a hammer and kalam, the two most important tools for making nagras, as he works on the silver [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] A craftsman uses a hammer and kalam, the two most important tools for making nagras, as he works on the silver [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]

“当股市出现波动时,投资者会将资金转向更安全的资产,如黄金和白银,”艾尤布解释道。“这种需求的突然激增推动贵金属价格急剧上升。”他表示,这一后果在印度尤为严重,因为黄金和白银与婚礼、其他文化传统以及家庭储蓄紧密相连。随着价格持续上涨,许多家庭正越来越多地选择更低成本的替代品,如人造珠宝。

“When stock markets become volatile, investors move their money into safer assets, such as gold and silver,” Ayyub explained. “This sudden surge in demand pushes the prices of precious metals sharply upwards.”The consequences have been particularly severe in India, he said, because gold and silver remain deeply intertwined with weddings, other cultural traditions and family savings. As prices continue to rise, many households are increasingly opting for lower-cost alternatives, such as artificial jewellery.

他警告说,虽然消费者可能会找到替代品,但那些依赖贵金属行业谋生的人群——包括工匠、银匠、珠宝店店主和传统工匠——则选择余地远小。

He warned that while consumers may find substitutes, those whose livelihoods depend on the precious metals industry, including artisans, silversmiths, jewellery shopkeepers and traditional craftsmen, have far fewer options.

乌兹玛·西迪奎的银色纳格拉是精心手工制作的凉鞋,融合了传统花卉和几何图案。与几年前制作的纳格拉相比,其用银量更少,因此更轻便且更实惠 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 乌兹玛·西迪奎的银色纳格拉是精心手工制作的凉鞋,融合了传统花卉和几何图案。与几年前制作的纳格拉相比,其用银量更少,因此更轻便且更实惠 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Uzma Siddique’s silver nagras are intricately handcrafted sandals featuring traditional floral and geometric designs. Made with less silver than nagras produced a few years ago, the pair is lighter and more affordable [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] Uzma Siddique’s silver nagras are intricately handcrafted

“影响远不止于消费者,”阿尤布说。“那些依赖这些金属谋生的整个社区现在正面临需求萎缩和经济不确定性加剧的困境。”银价飙升还带来了一个常被政府和政策制定者忽视的后果。据阿尤布称,当一个国家出现进口贵金属需求急剧上升时,政府往往会干预以抑制进口、保护外汇储备。

“The impact extends well beyond consumers,” Ayyub said. “Entire communities whose incomes depend on these metals are now facing shrinking demand and growing economic uncertainty.”The surge in silver prices has had another consequence that is often overlooked by the government and policymakers. According to Ayyub, when a country witnesses a sharp rise in demand for imported precious metals, governments often intervene to curb imports and protect their foreign exchange reserves.

纳西姆·贾汉展示她五十年历史的银色纳格拉,这些是她最珍贵的藏品之一,她计划将其传给孙女——如今银价飙升,新买一双已变得负担不起 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 纳西姆·贾汉展示她五十年历史的银色纳格拉,这些是她最珍贵的藏品之一,她计划将其传给孙女——如今银价飙升,新买一双已变得负担不起 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Naseem Jahan shows her five-decade-old silver nagras, among her most prized possessions, which she plans to pass on to her granddaughter amid soaring silver prices that have made a new pair unaffordable [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] Naseem Jahan shows her five-decade-old silver nagras, among her most pri

“印度高度依赖进口银。进口量的突然激增会给该国的外汇储备带来压力,因此政府会通过关税和其他限制措施试图抑制过度进口,”阿尤布说。

“India depends heavily on imported silver. A sudden spike in imports puts pressure on the country’s foreign exchange reserves, so the government tries to discourage excessive imports through tariffs and other restrictions,” Ayyub said.

这些进口关税最终会转嫁给消费者。“随着关税上调,银的到岸成本上升。这是印度银价目前高于全球价格的原因之一,”他说。

These import duties are eventually passed on to consumers. “As tariffs increase, the landed cost of silver rises. That is one of the reasons why silver prices in India are currently trading above global prices,” he said.

贾巴尔·侯赛因展示他今年制作的纳格拉鞋款。他曾每年制作数十双,但如今这项工艺的需求已急剧下降 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 贾巴尔·侯赛因展示他今年制作的纳格拉鞋款。他曾每年制作数十双,但如今这项工艺的需求已急剧下降 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]Jabbar Hussain shows the pairs of nagras he has made this year. He once made dozens of pairs every year, but demand for the craft has now declined sharply [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] Jabbar Hussain shows the pairs of nagras he has made this year. He once made dozens of pairs every year, but demand for

全球范围内,银目前每公斤售价为2100美元(约合201,000卢比),但在印度,由于政府高额进口税和严格的许可制度导致供应受阻,银价比全球价格高出20%以上。印度依赖进口满足其国内银需求的80%以上,其采购量占全球精炼银贸易总量的20%以上。

Globally, silver currently costs $2,100 (201,000 rupees) per kg, but in India, it’s more than 20 percent higher because of heavy government import taxes and strict licensing that chokes off supply. India depends on imports to meet more than 80% of its domestic silver demand and its purchases account for over 20 percent of the global trade in refined silver.

阿扎尔·侯赛因在卢克瑙制作的一双纳格拉 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] 阿扎尔·侯赛因在卢克瑙制作的一双纳格拉 [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]A nagra made by Azhar Hussain in Lucknow [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera] A nagra made by Azhar Hussain in Lucknow [Aatif Ammad/Al Jazeera]

印度在5月将黄金和白银的实际进口税提高了一倍多。这一举措导致当月银进口量暴跌87%,仅为7560万美元,而去年同期为5.662亿美元,为过去三年多来的最低水平。

India more than doubled its effective import taxes on gold and silver in May. That saw silver imports plunge by 87 percent to just $75.6 million that month, down from $566.2 million the previous year, the country’s lowest level in over three years.

高银价如今正迫使卢克瑙的新娘们做出艰难,有时甚至毁灭性的决定。

High silver prices are now forcing Lucknow’s brides to make tough, sometimes devastating, decisions.