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“有些人将撑不下去”:农民承受的压力如何威胁英国粮食安全‘Some aren’t going to make it’: how pressure on farmers threatens UK food security

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杰米·巴罗(Jamie Burrows),全国农民联盟作物委员会主席,表示他和其他食品生产者面临着诸多挑战。摄影:全国农民联盟Jamie Burrows, the chair of the crops board at the National Farmers’ Union, says there are multiple challenges facing him and other food producers. Photograph: National Farmers' Union

有这么多体面、有能力、高产、高效的耕种农民,他们正在询问自己该如何为本应播种的作物筹集资金,”杰米·伯罗斯说。

“There are so many decent, capable, productive, efficient arable farmers out there, asking how they are supposed to finance the crop they are meant to be putting in the ground,” Jamie Burrows says.

伯罗斯坐在他位于诺福克的耕种农场的拖拉机里,正在列举他和其他食品生产者面临的多重挑战。

Sitting in his tractor at his arable farm in Norfolk, Burrows is listing the multiple challenges facing him and other food producers.

像伯罗斯这样的作物种植者正在翻耕和耕作他们的田地,为即将到来的作物做准备——这片土地在漫长炎热的夏季里变得坚硬干燥。

Crop growers such as Burrows are ploughing and cultivating their fields, preparing the ground – hardened and dried out during the long, hot summer – for their next crop.

但机械需要燃料,而用于农业车辆和机械、税率较低的红色柴油成本,自伊朗冲突于二月下旬爆发以来几乎翻了一倍。同期,用于种植作物和动物饲料的大多数肥料成本也飙升了约20%。

But machinery requires fuel, and the cost of red diesel – used for agricultural vehicles and machinery that is taxed at a lower rate than standard diesel – has almost doubled since the conflict in Iran began in late February. The cost of most fertilisers used to grow crops and feed for animals has also soared by about 20% over the same period.

“其中一些企业可能撑不过去,”伯罗斯总结道,他同时也是国家农民联盟(NFU)作物委员会的主席。“这非常、非常困难。”这是英国食品生产者近期面临的众多忧虑之一,他们还曾在英国有记录以来最热的夏季里经历了一连串的热浪和干旱条件,导致英格兰的谷物收成创下有记录以来最差,官方生产估计数据显示。

“Some of these businesses aren’t going to make it,” concludes Burrows, who is also the chair of the crops board at the National Farmers’ Union (NFU). “It is very, very difficult.”These are among the latest worries for Britain’s food producers, who also faced a succession of heatwaves and drought conditions during the UK’s hottest summer on record, which resulted in England’s worst recorded cereals harvest, according to official production estimates.

作为食品生产链的第一环节,农民们正在加入警示英国食品供应脆弱性和不稳定性的呼声中。

Farmers, the first link in the food production chain, are adding their voices to the chorus of warnings about the vulnerability and precarity of the UK’s food supply.

食品专家、学者、企业以及公共支出监督机构——国家审计署(NAO)——在最近几周内一直呼吁政府采取行动,使英国的食品体系更具韧性。

Food experts, academics, businesses and the public spending watchdog, the National Audit Office (NAO), have in recent weeks called on the government to work on making the UK’s food system more resilient.

气候危机、今年强烈的厄尔尼诺天气现象、地缘政治冲击、能源中断和网络攻击都被视为对食品链安全的威胁。

The climate crisis, this year’s huge El Niño weather pattern, geopolitical shocks, energy outages and cyber-attacks are all considered threats to food chain security.

在呼吁部长们将食物视为国家安全问题之际,议会有影响力的公共账目委员会将于周一开始一系列听证会,作为其对英国食品供应韧性调查的一部分。

Amid calls for ministers to treat food as a national security issue, parliament’s influential public accounts committee is to begin a series of hearings on Monday as part of its inquiry into the resilience of the UK’s food supply.

农民们正加入警告英国食品供应脆弱性和不稳定性的合唱之中。摄影:克里斯托弗·弗隆格/盖蒂图片社Farmers are adding their voices to the chorus of warnings about the vulnerability and precarity of the UK’s food supply. Photograph: Christopher Furlong/Getty Images

委员会的议员们将审查国家审计署(NAO)关于环境、食品和农村事务部(Defra)上一次灾难规划演习不足之处的发现,该演习基本上排除了食品供应链企业。

MPs on the committee will look at the NAO’s findings on the shortcomings of the last catastrophe planning exercise by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra), which largely excluded food supply chain businesses.

英国生产约60%的自给自足所需食品,但比许多欧洲同行更依赖进口。政府自身的研究表明,英国人对潜在未来紧急情况的准备程度低于几个欧洲邻国。

Britain produces about 60% of the food it needs to feed itself, but is more dependent on imports than many European peers. The government’s own research has shown Britons are less prepared for potential future emergencies than several European neighbours.

食品行业的一些人认为,有迹象表明安迪·伯纳姆(Andy Burnham)的政府开始更认真地对待对英国食品系统的威胁。

Some in the food industry believe there are signs Andy Burnham’s government is beginning to take the threats to Britain’s food system more seriously.

内阁办公室将启动一项运动,呼吁家庭在为可能发生的未来紧急情况做准备的同时,囤积罐头食品。政府的“准备”网站概述了人们应采取的步骤,包括在家中储存物品,如瓶装水和非易腐食品,例如不需要烹饪的罐装肉类、水果和蔬菜。

The Cabinet Office will launch a campaign telling households to stock up on tinned foods alongside preparations for possible future emergencies. The government’s Prepare website outlines steps it says people should take, which include storing items at home, including bottles of water and nonperishable food, such as tinned meat, fruit and vegetables that do not require cooking.

尽管如此,超过150名食品专家和学者最近发出警告,指责部长们对食品安全持“自满”态度,且没有为紧急情况喂养人民的计划。

Despite this, a recent warning from more than 150 food experts and academics accused ministers of being “complacent” about food security and not having a plan to feed people in an emergency.

“历史上,我们在应对特定事件如新冠疫情方面表现不错,并且成功度过了难关,但我们正进入一个多重危机同时冲击的时期,”牛津大学马丁学院的保罗·贝伦斯教授(Prof Paul Behrens)表示,他签署了该警告信。

“Historically we have done pretty well coping with specific events such as Covid and we’ve managed to ride through them, but we’re moving into a period where we’re having multiple crises impact at the same time,” says Prof Paul Behrens of the Oxford Martin School, University of Oxford, who signed the letter.

这些危机包括日益恶化的气候危机以及目前为英国家庭提供部分新鲜农产品的地区(包括地中海和北非)水资源日益短缺。

These include the worsening climate crisis and increased water scarcity in regions that now provide some of the fresh produce UK households rely on, including the Mediterranean and north Africa.

与此同时,贝伦斯和其他专家,包括伦敦城市圣乔治大学食品政策中心的蒂姆·朗教授,一直在警告,英国的食品分销网络高度集中,使其面临潜在的中断或恶意行为者的攻击风险。

Meanwhile, Behrens and other experts, including Prof Tim Lang of the Centre for Food Policy, City St George’s, University of London, have been warning for some time that the UK’s food distribution network is concentrated, leaving it exposed to potential disruption or targeting by bad actors.

朗此前曾表示,英国的超市网络仅由131个配送中心供货——服务着12,300家门店——而行业组织冷链联合会警告称,英国大部分食品进口仅通过四个港口进入国家:多佛、费利克斯托、南安普顿和伦敦门户。

Lang has previously stated that the UK’s supermarket network is supplied by just 131 distribution hubs – serving 12,300 stores – while the industry body the Cold Chain Federation has warned that most of Britain’s food imports enter the country through four ports – Dover, Felixstowe, Southampton and London Gateway.

英国的超市网络仅由131个配送中心供应。摄影:安迪·雷恩/EPAThe UK’s supermarket network is supplied by just 131 distribution hubs. Photograph: Andy Rain/EPA

英国政府在20世纪90年代解散了自二战以来一直存在的战略食品储备。贝伦斯表示,其他国家,尤其是斯堪的纳维亚国家,如今拥有“远高于英国的国家层面准备”。

The UK government wound up the strategic food stockpile that had been in place since the second world war in the 1990s. Behrens says other nations, particularly Scandinavian countries, now have “far greater national preparedness”.

他说:“他们正在研究社区应对措施以及家庭能储备多少物资。他们也在关注本地生产,一些国家还建立了战略粮食储备。”

He says: “They’re looking at community responses and how much households can have on hand. They’re looking at their own local production and some countries have strategic stores of grain.”

42岁的安娜是一名育有一子的母亲,她是少数但逐渐增多的公民之一,这些人已经有一段时间在为可能发生的未来紧急情况做准备。如今居住在威尔士南部的她,原本来自东欧,成长于一个家庭,该家庭会种植食物并在寒冷季节进行保存。她现在在自己的YouTube频道上分享技巧,向其他家庭提供关于韧性以及如何建立应急储备的建议。

Mother of one Ana, 42, is one of a small but growing number of citizens who have been preparing for possible future emergencies for some time. Now living in south Wales, she is originally from eastern Europe and grew up in a family that grew food and preserved it for the colder months. She now shares tips on her YouTube channel, advising other households on resilience and how to build an emergency stockpile.

“说到底,这只是一种正常的生活方式,基本上是在保护自己和家人,”她说。安娜自称为“准备者”,但希望摆脱其负面含义,比如恐慌性采购或被视为生存主义者。

“It’s just a normal way of life, basically safeguarding yourself and your family,” she says. Ana describes herself as a “prepper”, but wants to move away from its negative connotations, such as panic buying or being a survivalist.

安娜在她的YouTube频道上分享技巧,建议其他家庭如何增强韧性并建立应急储备。摄影:提供方Ana shares tips on her YouTube channel, advising other households on building resilience and creating an emergency stockpile. Photograph: supplied

“刻板印象是……准备是美国人的事,真的很奇怪,全是迷彩服和丛林里的男人,打猎吃松鼠和蘑菇,”她说。相反,她希望帮助其他公民学习如何在没有电力、水源或无法前往商店的情况下,应对几小时、几天甚至几周的生活。

“The stereotype was … that preparedness is American, really weird, all camo and blokes in the bushes, hunting and eating squirrels and mushrooms,” she says. Instead she wants to help other citizens learn how they could cope for a few hours, days or even weeks without power, water or being able to get to the shops.

“如果政府最初就能够消除这种刻板印象,那么人们就会把准备工作视为日常事务,”她说。

“If the stereotype had been dispersed originally by the government, then people would look at preparedness as an everyday thing,” she says.

有机蔬菜盒配送公司Riverford的首席执行官罗布·哈沃德认为,英国的食品供应链需要进行“非常复杂的重新思考,并制定出面向未来安全的全新愿景”。

Rob Haward, the chief executive of organic vegetable box delivery company Riverford, believes the UK’s food supply chain needs a “very complicated rethink and a different vision for future security”.

总部位于德文郡的Riverford每周向客户配送约65,000盒蔬菜,其销售的农产品中约70%在英国种植,尽管它也与西班牙和意大利的种植者保持长期合作关系。

Devon-based Riverford distributes about 65,000 boxes a week to customers and about 70% of the produce it sells is grown in the UK, although it also has long-term relationships with growers in Spain and Italy.

虽然英国总是需要进口香蕉等无法在国内大规模种植的水果,但哈沃德认为消费者也可以通过回归季节性饮食来发挥作用。

While the UK is always going to import fruit such as bananas, which cannot be grown in large volumes domestically, Haward believes consumers can also play a role by returning to eating more seasonally.

哈沃德表示,长期合同可以帮助农民,使他们有信心投资于土地和所种植的作物。他补充道:“我们可以尝试多种方式,打造一个与现在不同、更能适应未来世界的食品和农业部门”,例如致力于恢复土壤,使其更好地抵御气候变化。他还希望政府“拉动杠杆”,比如向蔬菜店提供较低的商业税率。

Haward says longer-term contracts can help farmers, giving them confidence to invest in their land and what they grow. He adds: “There are different ways we can try to create a food and farming sector different to now and much more resilient to the future world,” such as working to restore soils to better withstand the changing climate. He also wants government to “pull levers” such as offering lower business rates to greengrocers.