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医生团体呼吁禁止生牛奶——因为生牛奶在美国越来越受欢迎Physicians’ group calls for ban on raw milk – as it’s becoming increasingly popular in the US

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2021年9月27日,肯塔基州一家奶牛场里的生牛奶瓶。摄影:卢克·沙雷特/彭博社 via 盖蒂图片社Bottles of raw milk at a dairy farm in Kentucky on 27 September 2021. Photograph: Luke Sharrett/Bloomberg via Getty Images

随着生牛奶在美国越来越受欢迎,与之相关的疾病爆发也时有发生,引起公共卫生官员的警觉。上周,美国儿科学会呼吁在美国禁止销售未经巴氏杀菌的牛奶。

As raw milk becomes increasingly popular among Americans, there have been several recent disease outbreaks tied to the product, alarming public health officials. Last week, the American Academy of Pediatrics called for a ban on sales of unpasteurized milk in the United States.

医生们表示,越来越多的人开始饮用生牛奶,原因在于一些网红宣传其健康益处;美国卫生部长罗伯特·F·肯尼迪 Jr,他直到最近还一直在推广它;以及人们对政府监管机构缺乏信任。

More people have started drinking raw milk, doctors say, because of influencers who have touted its health benefits; Robert F Kennedy Jr, the US health secretary, who until recently promoted it; and a lack of trust in government regulators.

但食品药品监督管理局(FDA)和公共卫生组织认为,关于生牛奶能减轻乳糖不耐受、治愈过敏和增强免疫力的说法缺乏证据支持。而生牛奶生产者称巴氏杀菌会破坏风味和健康益处,公共卫生官员则认为巴氏杀菌能够保障人们的安全。

But there is no evidence for claims that it reduces lactose issues and can cure allergies and boost immunity, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and public health groups argue. And whereas raw milk producers say that pasteurization eliminates flavor and health benefits, public health officials say it keeps people safe.

华盛顿大学生物学教授佩特拉·莱文表示:“我担心人们饮用生牛奶,因为虽然这并不意味着一定会生病,但感染致病菌(如致病细菌)的可能性相对较高。”

“I’m concerned about people consuming raw milk because while it isn’t a guarantee that you will get sick from it, there is a relatively high likelihood that you can get a pathogen, a bacteria that will make you sick,” said Petra Levin, a professor of biology at Washington University.

美国企业在19世纪末开始采用巴氏杀菌工艺——即通过加热牛奶来杀灭病原体和细菌。随着越来越多的生产者采用这一做法,监管部门也开始强制要求巴氏杀菌,美国的婴儿死亡率因而大幅下降。1987年,FDA禁止了生牛奶的州际销售和分发,但各州仍可根据本州法律允许内部销售。

US businesses started using pasteurization, a process in which milk is heated to destroy pathogens and bacteria, in the late 19th century. As more producers adopted the practice and regulators started requiring it, the country saw a dramatic decrease in the infant mortality rate. In 1987, the FDA banned the interstate sale and distribution of raw milk, but businesses were still allowed to sell it within their states, depending on their laws.

进入本世纪后,越来越多的美国人开始饮用生牛奶,过去十年中,许多州放宽了对牛奶的监管。根据市场研究公司Circana的数据,2024年生牛奶销售额增长了17.6%。

During this century, more Americans started consuming raw milk and, over the last decade, many states have loosened their milk regulations. In 2024, raw milk sales increased by 17.6%, according to the market research firm Circana.

成为卫生与公众服务部长之前,肯尼迪在舞台上表示他只喝生牛奶,并誓言FDA对公共卫生的“战争即将结束”,包括其对生牛奶的“积极压制”。

Before becoming the health and human services secretary, Kennedy said on stage that he only drinks raw milk and vowed that the “FDA’s war on public health is about to end”, including its “aggressive suppression” of raw milk.

上任后,他与精神科医生、《食肉法则》作者保罗·萨拉迪诺博士一起喝了一杯生牛奶——但令行业内一些人失望的是,肯尼迪如今显然已停止对其的倡导。特朗普政府现在转而推广全脂牛奶。

Once in office, he took a shot of raw milk with Dr Paul Saladino, a psychiatrist and author of The Carnivore Code – but to the dismay of some in the industry, Kennedy has now apparently stopped advocating for it. The Trump administration now instead promotes whole milk.

本·贝赫勒在养牛场时“爱上”了奶牛,最终他和妻子在弗吉尼亚州创办了自己的牧场——克雷布鲁克农场。他们目前挤奶150头牛,并通过一种“牛群份额”漏洞合法销售生牛奶,该漏洞允许消费者购买一头牛的份额。

Ben Beichler “fell in love” with milk cows while farming and, eventually, he and his wife started their own operation, Creambrook Farm, in Virginia. They now milk 150 cows and legally sell raw milk through a “herd share” loophole that allows consumers to buy a share of a cow.

他将新冠疫情描述为他业务的“巨大转折点”,因为人们开始更多地思考如何保护自己免受疾病侵害。

He describes the Covid-19 pandemic as a “massive gamechanger” for his business because people started thinking more about how they could protect themselves from getting sick.

此外,“无论好坏,我认为社会中存在一种此前不存在的怀疑态度,人们比以前更愿意质疑事物。因此,这让人们开始质疑许多他们的饮食需求,”贝赫勒说。“我不一定认为这种怀疑是件好事。”自2020年以来,他的年销售额增长了30%至50%,他说。

Plus, “for better or worse, I think there is a skepticism in society that didn’t exist pre-Covid, and people are willing to question things more than they used to. So that has made people question a lot of their dietary needs,” Beichler said. “I’m not necessarily saying that skepticism has been a good thing.”Since 2020, his sales have increased between 30% and 50% annually, he said.

作为生牛奶益处的证据,贝赫勒和其他人引用了诸如《临床与实验过敏》杂志2011年的一份报告,该报告指出“饮用农场牛奶可能对哮喘和过敏具有防护作用”。

As evidence of raw milk’s benefits, Beichler and others point to studies such as a 2011 report in the Clinical & Experimental Allergy journal which stated that “consumption of farm milk may offer protection against asthma and allergy”.

但FDA表示,支持者对这些发现的使用存在误用,因为研究中约一半的农场牛奶是经过煮沸的。此外,作者们表示,他们无法评估“巴氏杀菌牛奶与生牛奶消费的影响”,因为没有客观方法确认农场牛奶样本的生牛奶状态。

But the FDA states that advocates have misused the findings because about half of the farm milk in the study was boiled. Also, the authors stated that they could not evaluate the “effect of pasteurized vs raw milk consumption because no objective confirmation of the raw milk status of the farm milk samples was available”.

“在此阶段,研究作者表示,不建议将生牛奶作为预防措施进行食用。”

“At this stage, consumption of raw farm milk cannot be recommended as a preventive measure,” the study authors stated.

为了确保牛奶安全,Beichler表示,他的农场会在实验室对每一批牛奶进行检测,然后将样本送至第三方实验室。他拒绝透露该实验室的名称,但表示如果顾客询问,他会提供该信息。他的农场在Google上只有五星好评。

To ensure his milk is safe, Beichler said, his farm tests every batch at its laboratory and then sends samples to a third-party lab. He declined to provide its name but said he would provide it to customers who ask for it. His farm has only five-star reviews on Google.

“一位评论写道:‘一个诚实且健康的家庭,能够为如今饮用生牛奶的许多人提供安全且富含营养的牛奶。’”尽管Beichler相信生牛奶的好处,但他表示,“消费者在选择购买来源时必须审慎”。

“An honest and wholesome family who can provide safe and nutrient dense milk to the many people who are drinking raw milk these days,” one review stated. Despite his belief in raw milk, Beichler said that “the consumer has to be judicious” about “where they are getting” it.

今年夏天,根据国家公共广播电台(NPR)的报道,超过100人因食用生牛奶而生病,其中11人住院治疗。今年在美国加利福尼亚州、佛罗里达州和德克萨斯州发生的大肠杆菌爆发也与该国最大的生牛奶经销商Raw Farm的奶酪有关。大多数患病者是三岁及以下的儿童。

This summer, more than 100 people became sick after consuming raw milk, and 11 were hospitalized, according to National Public Radio. An E coli outbreak this year in California, Florida and Texas was also linked to cheese from the country’s largest raw milk distributor, Raw Farm. Most of those who fell ill were children ages three and younger.

斯坦福大学传染病专家Brian Dawes博士表示,生牛奶对儿童尤其危险,因为“他们的免疫系统较弱,整体生理储备较少,一旦感染,往往会病得更重”。

Dr Brian Dawes, an infectious disease specialist at Stanford University, said raw milk is especially dangerous for children because “they have weaker immune systems, less overall physiological reserves, so when they get these infections, they tend to get much sicker”.

他支持禁止生牛奶的销售。他认为,公共卫生领导者“确实有很多工作要做,以真正恢复公众对那些已有百年历史、能够保障人们安全的牛奶体系的信任”。

He supports a ban on raw milk. He said he also thinks public health leaders “have our work cut out for us to really regain public trust in the systems that have worked for milk for over 100 years, keeping people safe”.