TENGZHOU, China — In an office reeking of cigarettes, Dang Yangyang slouches on a black leather sofa in exhaustion. The general manager at Wintop Food has spent recent days chaperoning clients from Ghana, Iraq, Jordan, Russia and Senegal. They all want the same thing: Chinese chicken.

Wintop processes 60 million chickens annually, selling breasts, nuggets, meatballs and dumplings to more than 20 countries. Exports accounted for half of its profits last year and are underwriting 33 acres of expansion.

“International clients used to distrust the quality,” Dang, 44, told Reuters during a tour of his facilities in August. “But when the meat is $1,000 cheaper per ton than Brazilian and Thai competitors, they have to either buy from China or lose out." The company is part of a wave of Chinese protein producers overcoming the country’s patchy food-safety record and leveraging additional capacity to seize space on global supermarket shelves. Changing diets at home and Beijing’s emphasis on food security have pushed companies to invest in technology and expansion. Now, they produce more than China can consume and are unloading excess production abroad.

The surge in cheap Chinese protein is drawing scrutiny from Western producers and regulators, signaling fresh trade friction. The pattern echoes Beijing's strategy in steel, solar panels and electric vehicles — flooding markets with low-priced products that undercut global rivals.

In July, the European Commission launched an anti-dumping probe into Peking duck imports after local producers alleged Chinese subsidies created unfair competition. Last month, the commission imposed anti-dumping duties of between 41% and 67% on Chinese pea protein. Chicken has so far avoided the same action, though European authorities are monitoring the market, a commission spokesperson told Reuters.

Agriculture and food are among the few categories where China still runs a trade deficit. At just over $100 billion last year, the gap is massive but shrinking.

China, already the world’s largest source of seafood exports, last year became a net exporter of chicken. Overall, China exported $2.6 billion worth of chicken products last year, almost double 2020 levels, customs data show. Dairy exports are on track to hit $600 million this year, doubling in three years.

For global consumers, the trend means cheaper protein. For foreign producers from Europe to Thailand and Brazil, it means new competitors.

China’s shift from buyer to emerging exporter is having a “disruptive” effect on the global meat market, said Michael Boddington, a Beijing-based agribusiness consultant.

In Asia, he said, shipments traditionally flowed in from Europe and the Americas. Now, there's a cheaper alternative — and producers globally are scrambling to compete.

China’s agriculture and commerce ministries didn’t respond to Reuters questions about the country’s burgeoning protein exports.

For decades, protein in China meant pork. Pigs fed the workers who built the cities and staffed the factories that powered the country's economic boom. China became home to half the world’s hogs, whose appetite for grain, especially soybeans, redrew trade flows from the US Midwest to Brazil.

The country’s appetite for pork provided livelihoods for small farmers like Huang Weiying, who started raising pigs in her village in Hebei province 20 years ago, owning more than 500 at a peak.

But that era is over. When Reuters visited Huang in August, she was tossing slop to her last 10 hogs in a cobweb-covered barn. Some $75,000 in debt, she planned to slaughter them by autumn.

“I have been raising pigs for over two decades, but it has never been as hard as the last two years,” Huang, 57, said. “Pig prices are so low. People in the cities just stopped eating pork.”The fatty pork cuts common in traditional Chinese cuisine have fallen out of favor with health-conscious urbanites. Per-capita pork consumption has fallen 13% since peaking in 2023, according to official data and state media. Chicken intake rose more than 50% per capita in the decade through 2024.

Yet production kept expanding across China’s meat and dairy sectors. Officials encouraged massive buildout with subsidies targeted at large corporate producers to boost food security and rebuild herds after the 2018 African swine fever outbreak and the covid-19 pandemic. Subsidies accounted for about 13% of Chinese agricultural producers' gross farm receipts between 2022 and 2024, according to the OECD — nearly triple the level in the early 2000s.

Today, subsidized farms are contributing to overcapacity. Production has hit new highs despite an economic slowdown, tepid domestic demand and a shrinking population, government data show. Last year, China produced a record 59 million metric tons of pork; poultry output rose 7%. The dairy sector surpassed official targets for 2025 production two years early.

Pork prices are hardest hit because domestic demand is weakest, but prices have also fallen for poultry and dairy. For the large producers who increasingly predominate, the way out is exports.

“Every Chinese livestock company is planning to expand overseas. If you want to grow, you must go abroad,” said Zhang Yuan, head of baby formula marketing at dairy giant Yili, which plans to start selling formula in Southeast Asia as soon as next year.

It’s a symbolic step for Asia’s largest dairy company, which had milk products pulled in a 2008 government crackdown after melamine contamination sickened thousands of babies. The scandal turned consumers away from domestic milk for more than a decade. But Yili baby milk powder is now the top-selling brand in China.

Yili’s competitor, Feihe, launched its AceKid infant formula in Indonesia in April to compete with Nestlé and Mead Johnson, after bringing the product to the Philippines a year earlier. Feihe didn’t respond to requests for comment.

Poultry producers are treading a similar path. At Wintop, in Shandong province, manager Dang has increased the number of chickens in each shed from 20,000 to 120,000 in a decade. The birds weigh 2.5 kg on average – compared with 2.2 kg for broilers from Brazil, according to S&P Global. They are slaughtered in under 42 days instead of 45, catching up to the 35-day US standard.

The local Tengzhou government is subsidizing the wage bill for Wintop’s more than 2,000 workers, the company told Reuters without offering specifics. Tengzhou authorities didn’t respond to a request for comment.

Rival processors such as Sunner are relying on higher-value processed products such as marinated chicken and ready meals to drive growth. Its overseas sales rose 42% to $135 million last year.

Sunner told Reuters it is expanding the global presence of its breeds by working with countries including Uzbekistan to develop local capacity. The company developed China's first domestically bred white-feather broiler and has begun selling it in Africa and Central Asia.

As Chinese producers go abroad, they are grabbing market share from established players. Chinese milk powder now competes with products from New Zealand and Europe in countries including Nigeria and Bangladesh, and is displacing Indian and Iranian producers in the Middle East, according to Yifan Li, dairy analyst at commodity broker StoneX.

China has doubled its share of the European Union processed-poultry market to 10% since 2022, and tripled its share in the UK to more than 14%, according to data from Gira, a food consultancy. That growth is challenging producers such as Germany. China’s share of the Japanese market is also edging higher while the leader, Thailand, is slipping.

“It’s very worrying,” said Kukrit Arepagorn, manager at the Thai Broiler Processing Exporters Association, an industry body. “Customers increasingly use cheap Chinese chicken prices as a reference point for negotiation.”Ezequiel Pires, chairman of Lisbon-based international meat trader Branexx, said his company began buying Chinese poultry in March after African customers sought cheaper alternatives to Brazilian imports. Chinese breast meat and leg quarters are 10% to 20% cheaper than Brazilian products, Pires said.

China hasn’t fully shaken some of the negative associations arising from persistent food-safety scandals, analysts say. For its exporters, the challenge is to build “lasting confidence in the safety, traceability and consistency of their products," said Gordon Butland, director at Bangkok-based G&S Agriconsultants.

In the EU, imported food must meet the same health and safety standards as local produce, the European Commission told Reuters. The bloc plans to strengthen EU-origin labeling, starting with poultry products in 2027.

Some clients prefer Thai poultry for its consistent taste and quality, said Rupert Claxton, meat and livestock director at Gira. Still, for many customers, China’s lower price point is key.

"We're exporting to whatever countries we can,” said Wintop’s Dang. “If you have a significant price advantage, many customers actively seek you out."