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威尔士山间客栈助力登顶珠穆朗玛峰The Welsh mountain inn that helped conquer Everest

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位于北威尔士拉纳斯山口脚下的Pen-Y-Gwryd酒店。摄影:Pen-y-Gwryd酒店Pen-Y-Gwryd hotel, at the foot of the Llanberis Pass, north Wales. Photograph: Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

随着一部关于夏尔巴人丹增·诺盖的新片上映,我们前往彭-伊-格雷德,这座坐落于斯诺多尼亚的酒店曾是1953年英国远征队的“后勤基地”,探险精神至今仍在延续。

As a new film about Sherpa Tenzing Norgay is released, we visit Pen-Y-Gwryd, the Snowdonia hotel which served as British ‘base camp’ for the 1953 expedition and where the spirit of adventure lives on In the early hours of 2 June 1953, guests at the Pen-Y-Gwryd hotel in the heart of Eryri (Snowdonia) were woken from their sleep by the sound of footsteps running down the corridor outside their rooms.

左为埃德蒙·希拉里,与丹增·诺尔盖在他们史诗般的成就之后合影。摄影:Granger/Historical Picture Archive/AlamyEdmund Hillary, left, with Tenzing Norgay, after their epic achievement. Photograph: Granger/Historical Picture Archive/Alamy
电影《丹增》中,汤姆·希德勒斯顿饰演埃德蒙·希拉里,根登·彭措饰演丹增·诺尔盖。摄影:Apple TV+/PATom Hiddleston as Edmund Hillary and Genden Phuntsok as Tenzing Norgay in the film Tenzing. Photograph: Apple TV+/PA

1953年6月2日凌晨,坐落于埃里里(斯诺多尼亚)心脏地带的彭-伊-格雷德酒店客人被走廊外跑动的脚步声吵醒。随后传来欢呼声和香槟塞弹开的声音。就在片刻之前,酒店老板接到一个深夜电话,证实埃德蒙·希拉里和丹增·诺盖已成功登顶珠穆朗玛峰。消息从喜马拉雅山脉传到伦敦用了两天时间。巧合的是,这一历史性成就的消息与当天晚些时候伊丽莎白二世的加冕典礼同时传开。

The commotion was followed by gleeful shouting and the sound of champagne corks popping. A late-night telephone call to the hotel’s owner had moments earlier confirmed that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay had successfully summited Mount Everest. It had taken two days for the news to travel from the Himalayas to London. Serendipitously, news of the historic achievement coincided with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II later that day.

Pen-Y-Gwryd酒店展出的珠峰探险纪念品。Mementoes from the Everest expedition on display at Pen-Y-Gwryd hotel.

随后的几天和几周里,这两位登山家在世界各地报纸头条上受到盛赞。他们为相机笨拙地摆姿势,冻伤的脸上绽放出灿烂的笑容。此后数十年,丹增·诺盖在这次远征中的作用日益被边缘化——他是夏尔巴人,是该地区的土著,也是搬运向导,而希拉里则牢牢将他的冰斧植入史册。

In the days and weeks that followed, the two mountaineers were feted across the front pages of newspapers around the world. Posing awkwardly for the cameras, their beaming smiles shone out of frost-burnt faces. In the decades that followed, Tenzing Norgay’s role in the expedition was increasingly marginalised – he was a Sherpa, indigenous to the area, and the load-carrying guide, while Hillary firmly planted his ice axe in the history books.

房东克里斯托弗·布里格斯与丹增·诺尔盖和乔治·班德在吸烟室。摄影:Pen Y Gwryd档案Landlord Christopher Briggs with Tenzing Norgay and George Band in the Smoke Room. Photograph: Pen Y Gwryd Archive
攀登险峻的克里布戈赫的登山者。摄影:Bailey-Cooper Photography/AlamyClimbers on the challenging Crib Goch. Photograph: Bailey-Cooper Photography/Alamy