苏里扬·万帕克万(Suriyan Wanpakwaen)在位于呵叻府的养殖场里抱着一只竹鼠。 安全记者。
Suriyan Wanpakwaen holds a baby bamboo rat at his breeding facility in Nakhon Ratchasima Credit Mailee Osten-Tan Sarah Newey Global Health Security Correspondent.
发自呵叻府的娜塔卡恩·苏蒙(Nuttakarn Sumon),英国夏令时间上午8:00 我们先听到竹鼠的声音,然后才看到它们。在近200个混凝土容器的底部,数百只体型粗壮的啮齿动物正在活动——一些发出吱吱的叫声,在圈内团团乱窜,另一些则用它们尖利突出的牙齿大声啃咬着玉米、甘蔗和竹子。
Nuttakarn Sumon in Nakhon Ratchasima 8:00am BST We hear the bamboo rats before we see them. At the bottom of almost 200 concrete containers are hundreds of chunky rodents – some squealing as they scurry in circles, others loudly gnawing corn, sugar cane and bamboo with their sharp protruding teeth.
“它们非常好养,”苏里扬·万帕克万一边看着位于曼谷东北约150英里的一处省份呵叻府他家旁的简易养殖场的一个坑内,一边说道。“我最喜欢的是它们很干净,没有什么异味。”近七年来,苏里扬先生一直在养殖竹鼠,如今,这门生意正在蓬勃发展。单只啮齿动物的售价可高达4000泰铢(约合90英镑),需求量如此之大,以至于苏里扬先生和他的妻子都快忙不过来了。
“They’re very easy to keep,” says Suriyan Wanpakwaen, as he peers into one of the pits at the DIY breeding facility beside his home in Nakhon Ratchasima, a province roughly 150 miles northeast of Bangkok. “My favourite thing is how clean they are, there are no bad smells.”For almost seven years, Mr Suriyan has been farming bamboo rats – and now, the business is booming. A single rodent can sell for as much as 4,000 baht (roughly £90), and there’s so much demand that Mr Suriyan and his wife can’t keep up.
他们并不是唯一从中获利的人。自新冠疫情爆发以来,东南亚各地这种后院野生动物养殖场如雨后春笋般激增。
They’re not the only ones cashing in. Since the coronavirus pandemic, backyard wildlife farms like this have proliferated across Southeast Asia.
虽然这一行业在该地区长期存在,但不断增加的新养殖场填补了一个真空:在新冠疫情之后,中国出于生物安全考虑,关闭了数千家类似养殖场。
While this industry long existed in the region, the mounting new additions are filling a vacuum created when, in the wake of Covid-19, China closed thousands of similar farms over bio-security concerns.
“这显然出现了一个真空,因此也就有了机会,”联合国毒品和犯罪问题办公室(UNODC)驻曼谷专注于打击非法野生动物贸易和新发人畜共患病的项目官员罗斯·麦克尤恩(Ross McEwing)博士表示。
“There was obviously a void and therefore an opportunity,” said Dr Ross McEwing, a project officer focused on the illegal wildlife trade and emerging zoonotic diseases at the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) in Bangkok.
他补充说:“在那些能够整合种群并将这些种群通过非法手段跨越多国边界运送的人的领导下,出现了一场建立这些野生动物养殖场的协调一致的努力。”
“There was a coordinated effort to set up these wildlife farms, led by people who could consolidate stock and move that stock illegally across multiple international borders,” he added.
布萨巴·蒂马(Bussaba Thima)在呵叻府的养殖场里亲吻一只竹鼠。随着人们利用投资低、经济回报高的养殖机会,泰国的竹鼠贸易特别是“正在爆炸式增长”。
Bussaba Thima kisses a bamboo rat at her farm in Nakhon Ratchasima The bamboo rat trade in particular “is exploding” in Thailand and Laos, as people capitalise on a low investment farming opportunity with a high financial return.
专家告诉《每日电讯报》,需求既来自不断增长的异宠市场,也来自周边国家对竹鼠肉的消费,而蓬勃发展的社交媒体群组则为此提供了便利。
Demand is driven both by a growing exotic pet market and the consumption of bamboo rat meat in nearby countries, experts told The Telegraph, and is facilitated by thriving social media groups.
但人们越来越担心,这种贸易还可能滋生新的病原体,其后果可能会波及东南亚以外的广阔地区。
But there are growing fears that the trade could also spawn a new pathogen, which could have consequences well beyond Southeast Asia.
特别是三个要素引发了生物安全担忧:监管真空意味着这些农场的疾病监测微乎其微,而这里的卫生条件参差不齐;同时,每年有成千上万只动物被非法走私跨越国际边界,绕过了海关和常规健康检查。
Three elements in particular have raised biosecurity fears: a regulatory vacuum means there’s very little disease monitoring in these farms, where hygiene conditions vary widely; while thousands and thousands of animals are being illegally smuggled across international borders every year, bypassing customs and the usual health checks.
但也许最令人担忧的是,这些农场饲养密度极高。这意味着,如果病原体从(例如)啮齿动物或蝙蝠的粪便进入农场,它将有充足的机会进化和变异,在高密度挤在一起的动物与其人类宿主之间不断传播。正是出于这个原因,欧洲的大多数水貂养殖场现已关闭。
常驻曼谷的研究员索拉维·阿玛塔维特(Sorawit Amatavete)表示:“监测和监管存在巨大漏洞,因为竹鼠不被视为濒危动物,而且许多养殖户对生物安全的培训或知识也有限。”
But perhaps most worrying of all, the farms are densely stocked. This means that if a pathogen enters the farm from, say, rodent or bat droppings, it would have ample opportunity to evolve and mutate, bouncing constantly between the densely packed animals and their human hosts. It is for exactly this reason that most mink farms have now closed in Europe“There’s a big gap in monitoring and regulations as bamboo rats aren’t considered endangered, and many of the farmers have limited training or knowledge about biosecurity,” said Sorawit Amatavete, a Bangkok-based researcher.
他补充说,目前泰国各地可能存在数百个竹鼠养殖场,许多养殖场还养殖果子狸——这种动物与2002至2003年SARS疫情的起源有关。
He added that there are probably now hundreds of bamboo rat farms across Thailand and many also farm civets – the animal linked to the origins of the 2002/3 SARS outbreak.
他说:“从疾病的角度来看,随着产业从中国向泰国和老挝转移,风险确实在不断增加。”
“From a disease perspective, the risks are really growing as the industry shifts from China to Thailand and Laos,” he said.
一只雌性竹鼠在农场的一个水泥管内喂养幼崽。这一转移始于新冠疫情期间,当时中国打击了国内野生动物贸易的某些方面。尽管北京方面一直试图暗示SARS-CoV-2是某种程度上被输入到中国的,但已知最早的病例已被追溯到武汉华南海鲜批发市场。
A female bamboo rat feeds her babies inside a concrete tube at the farm The move started during the coronavirus pandemic, when China cracked down on aspects of its domestic wildlife trade Although Beijing has consistently sought to suggest that SARS-CoV-2 was somehow imported into China, the earliest known cases have been traced to Huanan Seafood Wholesale Market in Wuhan.
该市场反过来又从这个辽阔国家的各个小型后院养殖场获得活体动物的供应。研究人员已经表明,竹鼠是被交易的动物之一,同时被交易的还有其他已知易感呼吸道病毒的物种,如貉、果子狸和豪猪。
That market, in turn, was supplied with live animals from small backyard farms across the vast country. Researchers have shown that bamboo rats were among the animals traded, alongside other species known to be susceptible to respiratory viruses like raccoon dogs, civets and porcupines.
尽管新冠病毒的起源仍然存在争议,但野生动物贸易和湿货市场与过去的疫情爆发有关,并且是国际公认的生物安全关切。
Although the origins of Covid remain disputed, the wildlife trade and wet markets have been implicated in past outbreaks and are an internationally recognised bio-security concern.
专家警告说,处于拥挤环境中的受压动物,其活体和死去的野生动物近距离混杂,为病原体的传播、适应或重组——并可能跨物种传播给人类——提供了理想的环境。
Stressed animals held in cramped conditions, with living and dead wildlife in close quarters, provide an ideal environment for pathogens to spread, adapt, or recombine – and potentially jump to humans, experts have warned.
例如,2002至2003年的非典疫情导致29个国家出现8000多起病例并造成700多人死亡,该疫情被追溯到在中国湿货市场出售的果子狸。
For example, the SARS epidemic in 2002/3 – which resulted in more than 700 deaths and 8,000 cases in 29 countries – was traced to civets sold in a Chinese wet market.
随着新冠肺炎疫情在世界各地爆发,北京在2020年2月采取行动,“彻底禁止”以食用为目的的野生动物养殖或交易。尽管仍有一些残存,但该政策已经产生了相当大的影响。
But Beijing moved to “thoroughly ban” the farming or trading of wildlife for human consumption in February 2020, as Covid-19 exploded around the world. Although some remain, the policy has had a considerable impact.
被关在混凝土管中的竹鼠“当(中国)政府关停它时,我们许多人都感到十分震惊——我们没有料到他们会这么做……过去,政府全心全意地支持野生动物繁育,”休斯敦市中心大学东亚政治与动物政策副教授、哈佛法学院访问学者彼得·李博士说。
Bamboo rats housed together in concrete tubes“When the [Chinese] government shut it down, many of us were totally surprised – we didn’t expect they would do it… in the past, the government wholeheartedly supported wildlife breeding,” said Dr Peter Li, an associate professor of East Asian Politics and Animal Policy at the University of Houston-Downtown, and a visiting scholar at Harvard Law School.
他补充说:“但自2020年以来,销售量大幅减少。野生动物肉类的公开展示基本上已经消失——你仍然能看到少数餐馆违法经营,但最大规模的运营已经关停。”然而,虽然李博士和其他人对北京的行动表示赞赏,但他们指出,这一贸易并没有消亡,而是转移到了东南亚的部分地区。李博士现在希望这些国家效仿中国的榜样,取缔在泰国和老挝如雨后春笋般涌现的养殖场。
“But since 2020, there’s been a drastic reduction in the sales,” he added. “The public display of wildlife meat has mostly gone – you still see a small number of restaurants breaking the laws, but the largest scale operations have shut down.”But while Dr Li and others applaud Beijing’s actions they note that the trade has not died off, but has been displaced into parts of Southeast Asia. Dr Li now wants those countries to follow China’s example and ban the farms springing up across Thailand and Laos.
但其他人警告说,这可能会把贸易推到地下,使引入疾病监测机制变得更加困难,并损害人们的生计。索拉维特先生表示,更好的解决方案是正确监管这些养殖场——否则,该行业将在别处再次出现。类似的争论在其他地区的非正式牲畜和野生动物肉类贸易中也曾出现,包括欧洲。
But others warn this could push the trade underground, making it harder to introduce disease surveillance mechanisms and hurting people’s livelihoods. A better solution, said Mr Sorawit, is to properly regulate the farms – otherwise, the industry will again emerge somewhere else. Similar debates have played out over informal livestock and game-meat trades elsewhere, including Europe.
苏里扬先生的后院养殖场几乎是偶然开始的。大约七年前——当他试图买一只动物当宠物时——他意识到市场上存在一个空白。
Mr Suriyan’s backyard operation began almost by accident. Some seven years ago – as he tried to buy one of the animals as a pet – he realised there was a gap in the market.
“我打遍了所有养殖场,得到的答案总是一样:再等几个月,”这位53岁的男子说。“然后我打了一家养殖场的电话,他们说实际上可以帮我买够整个养殖场所需的数量。于是我就把它们全买了!”就这样,苏里扬先生和他的妻子布萨巴·蒂玛突然拥有了100只啮齿动物。他们在自己两层楼的房子旁边建起了养殖设施,开始繁殖这些动物——每对竹鼠每年会产两窝幼崽。
“I called every farm and the answer was always the same: wait a few months,” said the 53-year-old. “Then I called one farm and he said he could actually help me buy enough for a whole farm. So I just bought it all!”Suddenly, Mr Suriyan and his wife, Bussaba Thima, had 100 rodents. They constructed the facility beside their two-storey house and started to breed the animals – each pair of bamboo rats deliver a new litter of pups twice a year.
用于运输竹鼠的旧笼子堆放在苏里扬·万帕克瓦恩的养殖场外。尽管如此,他们仍花了一些时间才理清自己的商业计划。幼年竹鼠很容易作为宠物出售——在这些“异国”动物在泰国越来越受欢迎的背景下,社交媒体正在推动一个蓬勃发展且充满争议的市场。但如果在这段时间内这些啮齿动物卖不出去,它们长大后就会更难以出售。随后,苏里扬先生被一些想买它们来吃的人接洽。
Old cages used to transport bamboo rats accumulated outside Suriyan Wanpakwaen’s farm Still, it took some time to figure out their business plan. Baby bamboo rats could easily be sold as pets“exotic” animals like this are becoming more and more popular in Thailand, where social media is facilitating a flourishing and controversial market. But if the rodents went unsold during that window, they became harder to sell as adults. Then, Mr Suriyan was approached by people wanting to buy them to eat.
“如今,他们每月想要的数量超过了我们能供应的量。他们今天想要25只,明天也想要25只——我们就是繁殖不够来满足需求,我们也没有足够的设备,”他说。“而且卖给食用市场的价格也低于卖给宠物市场,所以我们先卖宠物。”虽然有些用于食用的竹鼠仍留在泰国——苏里扬先生将它们卖给中餐馆,在那里这种肉是一道美食——但如今大多数竹鼠被活体运出国外,并在国际市场上出售。
“Each month, they now want more than we can supply. They want 25 today, 25 tomorrow – we just don’t breed enough to meet the demand, we’re not equipped,” he said. “The price is also lower than selling to the pet market, so we sell as pets first.”While some of the bamboo rats sold for consumption remain in Thailand – Mr Suriyan sells to Chinese restaurants where the meat is a delicacy – most are now transported live out of the country and sold internationally.
联合国毒品和犯罪问题办公室的麦尤因博士表示,最大的市场似乎是越南,那里的竹鼠被宰杀、分解并食用。与此同时,在缅甸,冻肉的需求量很大。
The biggest market seems to be Vietnam, where bamboo rats are killed, butchered and eaten, said UNODC’s Dr McEwing. Meanwhile in Myanmar, frozen meat is in high demand.
麦尤因博士补充道:“如果你在国家之间转移动物,你需要正式的文件来证明生物安全法规已经得到满足。这就是被绕过的地方,这也是使这成为非法的原因。这是一起跨国有组织犯罪,它蔑视法律、腐蚀官员,并增加了人畜共患病溢出的可能性。”这种风险并非假设:科学家在2020年发表于《公共科学图书馆·综合》杂志上的一篇论文中发现,越南南部作为食物养殖的竹鼠中有6.3%携带冠状病毒。
The concrete containers housing the farm’s bamboo rats“If you move animals between countries, you need formal paperwork to show the biosecurity regulations have been met,” added Dr McEwing. “That’s what’s being bypassed, that’s what makes this illegal. It’s a transnational organised crime that flouts laws, corrupts officials, and increases the potential for zoonotic disease spillover.”The risk is not hypothetical: in a paper published in 2020 in PLOS One journal scientists found 6.3 per cent of bamboo rats farmed for food in southern Vietnam carried coronaviruses.
与此同时,该杂志上另一项2025年的独立研究发现,在越南养殖包括竹鼠、蝙蝠、果子狸和野猪在内的野生动物的210人中,有26.7%的人拥有戊型肝炎抗体,8.7%的人拥有汉坦病毒抗体。这两种病原体都与接触野生动物有关。
Meanwhile, a separate 2025 study in the same journal found 26.7 per cent of 210 people farming wild animals including bamboo rats, bats, civets and wild boar in Vietnam had antibodies for hepatitis E, and 8.7 per cent had hantavirus antibodies. Both pathogens are linked to exposure to wildlife.
尽管素里扬先生表示他已经引入了卫生和感染控制措施,但许多养殖户对疾病风险知之甚少或缺乏意识。
Although Mr Suriyan said he has introduced hygiene and infection control measures, many farmers have little knowledge or awareness of the disease risks.
麦尤因博士说:“[在泰国]我们听说过暴发疫情导致整个养殖场存栏动物灭绝的情况,因为没有检疫考量,而且卫生或养殖场设计远未达到[正常]家畜标准。”
“[In Thailand] we’ve heard of disease outbreaks that wiped out entire farmstock, as there are no quarantine considerations and the hygiene or farm design was nowhere near [normal] livestock standards,” said Dr McEwing.
他表示:“这些养殖场里什么都不会浪费:如果一只动物死亡,它就会进入冷冻柜,被重新用作饲料或出售到不同的消费市场。”他补充说,联合国毒品和犯罪问题办公室从脸书上收集的照片显示,数百只竹鼠被紧紧堆叠在笼子里,在卡车的后备箱中运输。如果有一只动物生病,病原体就会迅速感染它们全部——并且还可能传播给处理它们的接触者。
“Nothing gets wasted in those farms: if an animal dies, it goes into the freezer and gets repurposed as feed or is sold to a different consumption market.”He added that, in photos collated by UNODC from Facebook, hundreds of bamboo rats can be seen tightly stacked in cages as they’re transported in the boots of trucks. If one animal is sick, the pathogen rapidly infects them all – and could also jump to people handling them.
“每年都有数十万起动物向人类传播[疾病]的病例,”麦尤因博士说。“新型疾病极有可能出现并演变为流行病或大流行病。”但泰国的养殖户正处于灰色地带,玛希隆大学野生动物和异宠动物人畜共患病监测与监控中心(MoZWE)的技术顾问帕恩特普·拉塔纳孔博士说。
“There are hundreds of thousands of [disease] transmissions from animals to humans every year,” said Dr McEwing. “It’s highly likely that something novel will emerge that becomes an epidemic or a pandemic.”But Thai farmers are operating in a grey area, said Dr Parntep Ratanakorn, a technical advisor for the Monitoring and Surveillance Centre for Zoonotic Diseases in Wildlife and Exotic Animals (MoZWE) at Mahidol University.
由于竹鼠不被视为家畜,因此不受畜牧部门的监管,他说。但竹鼠也不在国际《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》(CITES)列出的濒危物种之列,这意味着国家公园、野生动植物保护部也不监管它们。
The farms are not overseen by the Department of Livestock because bamboo rats are not deemed a farm animal, he said. But they are also not listed as endangered species under the international CITES treaty, meaning the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation doesn’t monitor them either.
“因此不是强制性的,因为[竹鼠]不是受保护动物,”帕恩特普博士说。“所以我们没有官方数据表明它们的数量有多少。
“It’s not mandatory to, because [bamboo rats] are not a protected animal,” Dr Parntep said. “So we don’t have official numbers of how many there are.
“从‘一体健康’的角度来看,必须把一切因素综合起来——教育[养殖户],警告他们注意疾病风险,并监测他们的设施。但这仍然是穷人的一项收入,对他们的福祉和生计很重要。问题在于:我们如何才能让它变得干净?”苏里扬·旺帕克温打算扩大他的竹鼠养殖业务。但他补充说,不仅仅是作为食物养殖的竹鼠才令人担忧。随着泰国异宠贸易的蓬勃发展,帕恩特普博士表示,卫生工作者应该询问生病者养了哪些宠物,尤其是当症状是呼吸系统时。
“From a ‘One Health’ perspective, you have to bring everything together – educate [the farmers], warn them about disease risks, and monitor their facilities. But this is still an income for the poor people, and is important for their wellbeing and livelihood. The question is: how can we make it clean?”Suriyan Wanpakwaen intends to expand his bamboo rat farm operation But he added that it’s not just bamboo rats farmed to eat that pose a concern. As Thailand’s exotic pet trade booms, Dr Parntep says health workers should ask which pets someone presenting with an illness has, especially if the symptoms are respiratory.
“就人类而言,我们必须意识到动物可能携带并传播给我们的潜在疾病,”他说。“异宠目前很流行,但有时医生会忘记询问这类事情。”回到呵叻府,苏里扬先生和布萨巴夫人有着宏大的计划。随着生意兴隆,他们目前大约随时养有400只竹鼠,并正考虑进一步扩大规模。
“For the human side, we have to be aware of the potential diseases that animals can get and pass to us,” he said. “Exotic pets are in trend at the moment, but sometimes doctors forget to ask about this kind of thing.”Back in Nakhon Ratchasima, Mr Suriyan and Mrs Bussaba have big plans. With business booming, they now hold about 400 bamboo rats here at any one time and are eying further growth.
“我有一个计划,要向房子后面的地块扩展,”他在向《电讯报》展示那片满是竹子的郁郁葱葱的空间时说。
“I have a plan to expand into the plot behind the house,” he said, as he showed The Telegraph the lush space, full of bamboo plants.
“我想建一个几乎像公寓一样的设施,分成不同的层次。计划是把农场扩大到能容纳至少一千只竹鼠。”通过了解全球健康安全,保护您和您的家人。
“I want to build a facility which is almost like a condo, with different layers. The plan is to expand the farm to house at least 1,000 bamboo rats.”Protect yourself and your family by learning more about Global Health Security