
注入蛋白质的瓶装水、冰淇淋、盒装通心粉芝士,甚至伏特加。随着减肥药的兴起,蛋白质类产品迎来繁荣,因为诺和诺德(NOVOb.CO)的Ozempic(司美格鲁肽)和礼来(LLY.N)的Mounjaro(替尔泊肽)等GLP-1类药物的使用者,正在寻找方法来对抗这些药物可能导致的肌肉流失。根据波士顿咨询集团8月的一项调查,GLP-1使用者表示,他们在高蛋白食品上的支出将比开始用药前增加11%。
Protein-infused bottled water. Ice cream. Boxed macaroni and cheese. Even vodka. The rise of weight-loss drugs is driving a boom in protein-based products, as users of GLP-1 medication like Novo Nordisk's (NOVOb.CO) Ozempic and Eli Lilly's (LLY.N) Mounjaro look for ways to counter the muscle loss those drugs can cause. GLP-1 users say they will spend 11% more on high-protein foods than before starting the drugs, according to an August survey from Boston Consulting Group.
即使消费者在饮食中寻找新的蛋白质来源,他们对标榜高蛋白的食品也变得更加怀疑,路透社对消费者和公司高管的采访发现。一些购物者质疑产品是否含有广告暗示的那么多蛋白质,而另一些人则对那些添加了大量添加剂或糖分、以至于削弱了健康卖点的产品感到反感。
Even as consumers seek out new sources of protein for their diets, they are becoming more skeptical of foods advertised as high-protein, Reuters interviews with consumers and company executives found. Some shoppers question whether products contain as much protein as advertising implies, while blanching at those that pack in so many additives or sugar that they undercut the health pitch.
市场研究公司尼尔森IQ(NielsenIQ)今年早些时候发布的一份报告称,零食行业已进入其“问责时代”,报告指出,今年有25%的受访者表示他们正在使用扫描应用程序来检查产品的营养价值,高于去年的约17%。
A report from marketing research firm NielsenIQ earlier this year said the snack industry has entered its "accountability era," noting that 25% of its survey respondents this year said they are using scanning apps to check the nutritional value of products, up from around 17% last year.
“蛋白质不再是差异化因素,”尼尔森IQ首席营销研究员Chris Costagli表示,他参与撰写了该报告。
"Protein is no longer a differentiator," said Chris Costagli, a lead marketing researcher at NielsenIQ, who co-wrote the report.
马里兰州非营利机构员工Megan Gisela Bautista经常进行力量训练,她最近对一款鸡肉牛肉干零食的蛋白质含量感到失望,该产品用醒目、多彩的大字号标榜高蛋白。
Megan Gisela Bautista, a nonprofit employee in Maryland who does strength training, was recently disappointed by the protein content of a chicken jerky snack that touted high protein in a large, colorful font.
“我得吃五包才行,”Bautista说,“那对身体不好。”达拉斯的Zack Spears表示,他现在会定期查看营养标签,并观看一位在线内容创作者在YouTube上发布的、评测主打蛋白质产品的视频。
"I'd have to eat five of them," Bautista said. "That's bad for you." Zack Spears of Dallas said he is checking nutritional labels regularly, and now watches YouTube videos from an online content creator who reviews protein-marketed products.
“随着这股蛋白质热潮兴起,产品价格越来越贵,我想确保我摄入体内的东西是健康的,”Spears说。一些品牌承认消费者的审视日益严格。
"As this protein craze pops off, and things are getting more expensive, I want to be sure what I'm putting in my body is healthy," Spears said. Some brands acknowledge the growing consumer scrutiny.
“蛋白质将长期存在,但对话必须进化,”达能(DANO.PA)北美首席研究官苏珊·扎里费在给路透社的声明中说。“消费者开始‘超越克数’进行考量,对蛋白质来源和营养密度的细微差别了解得更多了。”今年夏天,这家法国食品公司对竞争对手酸奶制造商Chobani提起虚假广告诉讼,指控其通过使用非标准份量在标签上夸大蛋白质含量。Chobani对这些指控提出异议,在给路透社的声明中表示其标签准确且透明。
“Protein is here to stay, but the conversation must evolve,” said Susan Zaripheh, North America chief research officer for yogurt maker Danone (DANO.PA), in a statement to Reuters. “Consumers are starting to look ‘beyond the gram,’ becoming more informed in the nuances of protein source and nutrient density.”Over the summer, the French food company filed a false advertising lawsuit against rival yogurt maker Chobani, accusing it of inflating its protein claims on labels by using non-standard serving sizes. Chobani has disputed those claims, telling Reuters in a statement that its labeling is accurate and transparent.
扎里费表示,消费者想要的产品不仅要有助于消化吸收,还要含有纤维等其他营养素。除了现有的高蛋白酸奶和豆奶,该公司正在开发将蛋白质与其他营养素结合的产品。
Zaripheh said consumers want products that also aid in digestibility and contain other nutrients like fiber. In addition to existing high-protein yogurts and soy milks, the company is developing products that combine protein with other nutrients.
Globe Market Research今年夏天估计,去年全球蛋白质强化食品市场价值近580亿美元。
Globe Market Research estimated over the summer that the worldwide protein-enriched food market was worth nearly $58 billion last year.
但以Spam午餐肉和罐装午餐肉等高蛋白产品闻名的荷美尔食品公司(HRL.N)表示,避免使用添加剂来增加其产品中的蛋白质含量。
But Hormel Foods (HRL.N), well-known for protein-heavy products like Spam and canned lunch meats, said it is avoiding the use of additives to increase protein in its products.
“我们相信,从长远来看,人们不希望食物中含有太多科技成分,”荷美尔首席营销官杰森·莱文说,指的是“乳清粉、豌豆粉或科学设计的蛋白质分离物”等添加剂。路透社发现有几个品牌根据比同款普通版本更大的份量来标注蛋白质含量,其中包括意面、燕麦片和格兰诺拉麦片。
"We believe that in the long run, people don't want too much science in their food," said Jason Levine, Hormel chief marketing officer, referring to additives like "whey powder or pea powder or scientifically engineered protein isolates." Reuters found several brands that advertise protein content based on a larger portion size than used in regular versions of the same product, including in pastas, oatmeals and granolas.
通用磨坊(GIS.N)旗下零食品牌Nature Valley销售的一款“燕麦蜂蜜”散装格兰诺拉麦片,包装上标注含有13克蛋白质,依据的是2/3杯(65克)的份量,这比其普通非强化格兰诺拉麦片标称的1/4杯(27克)份量大出两倍多。
Nature Valley, a snack brand owned by General Mills (GIS.N), sells a version of its “oats ‘n honey” loose granola that advertises 13 grams of protein on its packaging, based on a 2/3 cup (65 grams) serving size, more than twice as big as the 1/4 cup (27 grams) it calls a serving size for its regular, non-enhanced granola.
通用磨坊在一份声明中表示,该公司认为普通版本属于零食,而蛋白质版本既可以作为零食食用,也可以作为一顿更完整的谷物早餐。
General Mills, in a statement, said it considers the regular version a snack while the protein version can be eaten either as a snack or a more complete cereal meal.
该产品的蛋白质热量比——营养师用来描述产品蛋白质含量的一个指标——显示其“总体蛋白质含量非常低”,斯坦福大学教授、阿德莫尔健康研究所首席医疗官乔纳森·博内特表示,并补充说,一杯脱脂奶的蛋白质含量高于2/3杯该产品的含量。博内特说,最近有更多患者向他咨询蛋白质摄入方面的指导。
The product's protein-to-calorie ratio, a metric dietitians use to describe a product's protein content, indicates a “very low amount of protein overall,” said Jonathan Bonnet, a Stanford professor and chief medical officer at the Ardmore Institute of Health, adding that a glass of skim milk has more protein than the 2/3-cup serving. Bonnet said more patients are asking him lately for guidance on their protein intake.
尽管如此,其他公司仍在扩大产品供应以满足需求。研究机构Circana在8月报告称,约48%的美国成年人希望在饮食中增加蛋白质,比去年上升了7个百分点。
Still, other companies are expanding their offerings to meet demand. Researcher Circana reported in August that around 48% of US adults are looking to add protein in their diets, up 7 points from last year.
折扣超市连锁店奥乐齐最近告诉路透社,将于10月推出自有品牌的新款高蛋白松饼,这是该公司今年推出的一系列高蛋白产品中的最新款,此前已推出的产品包括气泡水、饼干和和牛牛肉干。
Discount supermarket chain Aldi recently told Reuters it is launching a new line of private-label protein pancakes in October, the latest in a string of high-protein items released this year that have included sparkling water, crackers and wagyu beef jerky.
沃尔玛上个月告诉路透社,将从11月到明年1月独家销售J.M. Smucker旗下Folgers品牌的一款新型蛋白质添加速溶咖啡产品。
Walmart will start selling a new, protein-infused instant coffee product from J.M. Smucker's (SJM.N) Folgers from November until January exclusively, Walmart told Reuters last month.
一些消费者和营养师表示,蛋白质热潮导致人们摄入的蛋白质超过所需。
Some consumers and dietitians say the protein trend has led people to eat more protein than they need.
尼尔森IQ的报告称,在接受调查的1000多名受访者中,三分之一认为食品行业在过度炒作蛋白质——另有三分之一认为某些产品的蛋白质含量过高。
NielsenIQ's report said a third of more than 1,000 surveyed respondents believe the food industry is overhyping protein — and another third believe some products have too much protein.
加州大学洛杉矶分校教授、临床营养师达娜·亨内斯表示,普通人不需要像行业营销所宣传的那样多的蛋白质。
Dana Hunnes, a professor and clinical dietitian at UCLA, says the average person doesn't need as much protein as industry marketing has promoted.
亨内斯说,一些主打蛋白质的产品含有过多加工成分,不符合健康食品标准。“我见过相当于糖果棒的产品”在宣传蛋白质,她说。“光因为它含有蛋白质,并不意味着它是你应该吃的东西。”
And some protein-marketed products have too many processed ingredients to qualify as healthy, Hunnes said. “I’ve seen the equivalent of a candy bar” advertising protein, she said. “Just because it has protein doesn’t mean it’s something you should eat."