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“这是我们历史的一部分”:西班牙人的饮食习惯正在改变,“日间套餐”还能存活吗?‘It’s part of our history’: can the menú del día survive Spain’s changing eating habits?

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一名行人走过一块展示“每日套餐”的黑板,这种固定价格的套餐最初诞生于20世纪60年代,旨在吸引游客。 摄影:Thomas Coex/AFP/Getty ImagesA pedestrian walks past a board showing a menú del día , a fixed-price offering originally dreamt up in the 1960s to attract tourists. Photograph: Thomas Coex/AFP/Getty Images

这项午餐仪式在弗朗哥独裁统治时期确立,目前正在走向衰落,但并非一切都已失去。在西班牙全国各地的每个工作日午餐前不久,弗朗哥独裁统治留下的一处挥之不去、虽没那么声名狼藉的遗产,正被小心翼翼地用粉笔、马克笔和打印墨水勾勒出来。

Established under the Franco dictatorship, the lunchtime ritual is in decline but all is not lost A little before lunchtime each working day across Spain, evidence of one of the lingering, if less notorious, legacies of the Franco dictatorship is carefully traced in chalk, marker pen and printer ink.

马德里黑板上的一系列每日套餐。它们通常由一道简单的前菜、一道丰盛的主菜,以及一道甜点或一杯咖啡组成,并附赠面包和一杯饮料。A selection of daily menus on chalkboards in Madrid. They typically consist of a simple starter, a hearty main and a choice of pudding or coffee with bread and a drink thrown in.

物美价廉的“日间套餐”(即每日固定价格午餐)通过黑板、白板以及匆忙贴在窗户上的纸张向饥肠辘辘的工人们招手,它已融入西班牙人的日常生活半个多世纪。然而,尽管每个工作日仍有400万份套餐被端上餐桌,但西班牙人对这一熟悉仪式的胃口正在慢慢消失。

Beckoning to hungry workers from blackboards, whiteboards and pieces of paper hastily taped to windows, the competitively priced , or daily set-price lunch, has been part of everyday Spanish life for more than half a century. But while 4m are still served each weekday, Spain is slowly losing its appetite for the familiar ritual.

阿吉雷表示,供应“每日套餐”的餐厅应成为社区的中心,“让经济拮据的家庭也能负担得起外出就餐”。 摄影:Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg/AlamyAguirre says restaurants serving a menú del día should be a centre of community gravity ‘where families with limited financial means can afford to eat out’. Photograph: Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg/Alamy
马略卡岛帕尔马一家餐厅的每日套餐。美食作家拉什米·阿吉雷说,黑板上的字理想情况下应由“从未听说过字体设计的人”书写。 摄影:Ian Shaw/AlamyA daily menu at a restaurant in Palma, Mallorca. The food writer Lakshmi Aguirre says chalkboards should ideally be written by ‘someone who’s never heard of lettering’. Photograph: Ian Shaw/Alamy
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