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“大闸蟹自由”:高产量与需求疲软致中国美味价格下跌‘Hairy crab freedom’: Chinese delicacy’s price tag drops amid high output, weakened demand

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对于广州居民克莱尔·寇(Claire Kou)来说,这个秋天带来了一个令人欣喜的惊喜:“大闸蟹自由”,即能够尽情享受这种备受喜爱的中国美食,而不必担心其传统上高昂的价格标签。

For Guangzhou resident Claire Kou, this autumn brought a welcome surprise: “hairy crab freedom”, the ability to enjoy the beloved Chinese delicacy without worrying about its traditionally high price tag.

在本月初的国庆假期期间,寇通过一个在线生鲜平台订购了四只母大闸蟹,每只重约100克(3.5盎司),价格仅为70元(合10.5美元)。母大闸蟹通常被认为很抢手,因为它们带有大量鲜艳的红橙色蟹黄,以浓郁的风味而闻名。

During the National Day holiday earlier this month, Kou ordered four female hairy crabs, each weighing about 100 grams (3.5 ounces), via an online grocery platform for just 70 yuan (US$10.5). Female crabs are often considered desirable because they carry a lot of bright reddish-orange roe, reputed for its rich flavour.

查看她去年同期的电子收据显示,类似的订单花费了107元,同比下降了约35%。

A check of her digital receipt from the same period last year showed a similar order cost 107 yuan, an around 35 per cent year on year drop.

紧随中秋节之后,今年的国庆长假创造了一个为期13假期的时期,被广泛视为中国消费支出的晴雨表。

Following right on the heels of the Mid-Autumn Festival, this year’s National Day break created a 13-day holiday period widely seen as a barometer for Chinese consumer spending.

大闸蟹长期以来为观察这一节日市场提供了一个窗口。尽管历史上在销售高峰期备受珍视并以高昂的溢价出售,但随着国内需求减弱,其价格在过去两年里一直在下滑。

Hairy crabs have long offered a window into this festive market. Though historically prized and sold at steep premiums during peak holidays, their prices have been sliding for the past two years as domestic demand weakens.

来自新兴养殖地区的产量激增正将中国的大闸蟹收获量推向创纪录的100万吨。加上疲软的需求以及企业礼品预算的缩减,不断增长的供应抹去了大闸蟹的高价,拉低了零售价和收购价。

Surging output from emerging farming regions is pushing China’s hairy crab harvest towards a record 1 million tonnes. Combined with weak demand and smaller budgets for corporate gifts, this growing supply has erased the crab’s high price, driving down both retail and farm prices.

上海海洋大学教授王成辉在接受官方背景的新闻媒体《解放报》采访时表示,全国大闸蟹产量稳步增长,2025年达到93.9万吨,2026年逼近创纪录的100万吨。

Wang Chenghui, a professor at Shanghai Ocean University, was quoted by state-backed news outlet Jiefang Daily as saying that national hairy crab production had grown steadily, reaching 939,000 tonnes in 2025 and closing in on a record 1 million tonnes in 2026.

据浙江日报报业集团旗下的《潮新闻》报道,江苏省的一位蟹农周英涛(音)将今年描述为他经历过的市场最低迷、波动最大的时期。比产量增长更重要的是大闸蟹作为奢侈礼品地位的迅速消亡。

Cited by Tide News, which is affiliated with Zhejiang Daily Press Group, Zhou Yingtao, a crab farmer in Jiangsu province, described this year as the lowest and most volatile market he had ever worked through. Even more significant than the rise in production is the rapid erosion of the crab’s status as a luxury gift.

据《潮新闻》援引安丰镇水产行业协会会长周春勇(音)的话说,大闸蟹备受推崇的地位已经减弱,挤压了其高昂的价格溢价。他指出,即使是品质最高的大闸蟹,今年的价格也下跌了10%至20%。

Hairy crabs’ prized status has eroded, squeezing out their high price premium, according to Zhou Chunyong, head of the Anfeng Town Aquatic Industry Association, as quoted by Tide News. He noted that even for the most premium crabs, prices have fallen 10 to 20 per cent this year.

回看2020年,预付费的“蟹券”是电子商务销售的主要驱动力,礼品卡经常售价数千元。

Looking back to 2020, prepaid “crab vouchers” were a major driver of e-commerce sales, with gift cards often selling for thousands of yuan.

在2010年代初期,一串10只优质阳澄湖大闸蟹的提货券售价高达3698元,使得单只螃蟹的价值几乎等同于一克黄金。

In the early 2010s, a voucher for 10 premium Yangcheng Lake crabs fetched as much as 3,698 yuan, making a single crab worth about the same as a gram of gold.

如今的深度折扣标志着中国消费者支出方式的戏剧性转变。今年,在内需低迷的背景下,企业采购预算继续收紧。

Today’s deep discounts mark a dramatic shift in how Chinese consumers spend. This year, corporate procurement budgets have continued to tighten amid sluggish domestic demand.

中国东部的一位制造业企业主朱雷(音)说:“过去,我们会收到很多来自供应商的礼物,比如大闸蟹兑换券。今年,几乎所有人都停止赠送这些,转而选择简单的月饼礼盒。”大闸蟹持续的价格压力反映了中国家庭消费面临的更广泛压力。

“In the past, we would receive many gifts like hairy crab vouchers and from our suppliers,” said Zhu Lei, a manufacturing business owner in eastern China. “This year, almost everyone stopped sending them, opting for simple mooncake gift boxes instead.”The sustained price pressure on hairy crabs mirrors broader strains on Chinese household consumption.

国家统计局的数据显示,消费价格增长依然低迷,作为衡量通胀关键指标的居民消费价格指数上个月同比上涨了0.9%。

Data from the National Bureau of Statistics shows that consumer price growth remained subdued, with the consumer price index, a crucial gauge of inflation, rising 0.9 per cent year on year last month.

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