薯片生产商担心，他们即将成为欧盟围绕“假肉”展开的文化战争中的牺牲品。
Potato chip producers fear they're about to be collateral damage in the EU's culture war over fake meat.
欧盟新规禁止在素食替代品上使用“牛排”、“鸡肉”等术语，初衷是避免消费者混淆。如今，“火烤牛排味”薯片和“培根味”饼干的制造商自己也拿不准，自家产品是否会触犯法律，或者能否避免“假培根”生产商面临的更改标签烦恼。
New EU rules banning terms like "steak" and "chicken" for vegetarian alternatives were meant to avoid consumer confusion. Now the makers of "flame grilled steak" chips and "bacon-flavored" biscuits are themselves unsure whether their products will run afoul of the law or be spared the label-changing headache "veggie bacon" producers have.
欧洲零食协会——其成员包括百事公司旗下的乐事、瑞典薯片品牌Estrella等——担心，相互冲突的立法和模糊的措辞，可能会无意中将从未冒充过肉类的零食也一并囊括进去。
The European Snacks Association — which represents for example PepsiCo's Lay's or Swedish chip brand Estrella — fears that clashing legislation and vague wording risk inadvertently sweeping up munchies that have never pretended to be meat.
“口味描述中带有肉类名称的，可能属于管辖范围，”零食游说团体的奥利维耶·德沃向《政治报欧洲版》抱怨称，这些规则给生产商带来了“法律不确定性”。
“Meaty names in the flavor description might be in scope,” the snack lobby's Olivier Devaux told POLITICO, complaining about “the legal uncertainty” the rules create for producers.
游说团体希望明确哪些规则适用于肉味零食。根据他们的法律分析，三项欧盟立法——食品信息提供消费者法规、香料法规，以及包含“假培根禁令”的现行共同市场组织法规——在此处存在冲突，且不清楚“哪一项优先适用”，德沃表示。
The lobby wants clarity on which rules apply to meat-flavored snacks. According to their legal analysis, three pieces of EU legislation — the food information to consumers regulation, the flavoring regulation, and the current Common Market Organisation, which includes the veggie bacon ban — are in conflict here, and it is not clear “which one prevails,” said Devaux.
德沃称，理想的解决方案是在目前正在谈判的2027年后共同市场组织法规改革中，增加针对香料的具体豁免条款。欧洲人民党欧洲议会议员斯特凡·科勒及其他三名议员提出的一项修正案，正是针对这一问题。
The ideal solution would be to add a specific exemption for flavorings to the post-2027 CMO overhaul that is currently under negotiation, Devaux said. An amendment put forward by Stefan Köhler and three other European People’s Party MEPs would address just that.
该修正案将涵盖咸味零食、酱料和调味品，在这些产品中，与肉类相关的术语用于描述口味，而非产品身份或营养成分。科勒辩称，此类产品“显然被理解为与肉类或肉类替代品截然不同。”
The amendment would cover savory snacks, sauces and seasonings, where meat-related terms describe taste rather than product identity or nutritional content. Such products, Köhler argued, are "clearly understood as distinct from meat or meat substitutes."
德沃表示，游说团体接触的每一位决策者都认为这“完全讲得通”。然而，一位关键欧洲议会议员的立场仍不清楚。法国欧洲人民党议员塞利娜·伊马尔曾大力推动禁止使用肉类术语，她拒绝了本文多次采访请求。她此前曾告诉《政治报》（POLITICO），她将利用下一次共同市场组织（CMO）修订“走得更远”，并且仍在推动保护“汉堡”以及十几个其他术语——包括香肠、莫尔塔德拉香肠和血肠——不被植物基替代品使用。
According to Devaux, every policymaker the lobby talked to thinks “it makes perfect sense.”One key MEP's view is still unclear, however. Céline Imart, a French EPP lawmaker who championed the meat term ban, declined multiple requests for comment for this article. She previously told POLITICO she would use the next CMO revision to “go further," and she is still pushing for "burger" and a dozen or so other terms — including chorizo, mortadella and black pudding —to be protected from plant-based alternatives.
与此同时，从议员到非政府组织，几乎所有人都希望将术语之争抛在脑后，转而处理文件中其他——可以说更重要——的部分，例如市场干预措施。
Meanwhile, nearly everyone else, from lawmakers to NGOs, would rather leave the terminology battle behind to deal with other — arguably more important — parts of the file, such as market interventions.
如果没有豁免条款来解围，肉味碳水化合物产品的生产商可能不得不在2029年规则开始实施前重新考虑其标签。
Without an exemption to come to the rescue, producers of meat-flavored carbs may have to rethink their labels by 2029, when the rules start applying.