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卫报

“最后的堡垒”:随着反文化聚集区绅士化,历史悠久的雅典咖啡馆关门歇业‘The last fortress’: historic Athens cafe closes as countercultural area gentrifies

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一名游客在雅典埃克萨基亚街区最古老的咖啡馆之一——穆里亚咖啡馆外阅读书籍。摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》A tourist reads his book outside Mouria, one of the oldest cafes in Athens, in the Exarchia neighbourhood. Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian

在以左翼团结、抵抗和激进主义闻名的埃克萨尔希亚(Exarchia),莫里亚(Mouria)咖啡馆无法续签租约。只要人们能记住的日子里,这里一直是作家、艺术家、诗人、政治家、医生、律师、激进分子和革命者的聚集地。44年来,莫里亚的老板克里斯托斯·瓦纳斯(Christos Vanas)接待了所有人。

Mouria coffeehouse unable to renew lease in Exarchia, known for leftwing solidarity, resistance and radicalism It has been the hangout of writers, artists, poets and politicians, doctors and lawyers, radicals and revolutionaries for as long as anyone can remember. And for 44 years, Christos Vanas, the proprietor of Mouria, has let them all in.

克里斯托斯·瓦纳斯和他的女儿阿雷蒂将于周日关闭穆里亚咖啡馆。Christos Vanas and his daughter Areti will close Mouria on Sunday.
“就像失去了一位朋友,”退休律师农塔斯·帕帕亚尼斯说,他已连续20年几乎每天光顾穆里亚咖啡馆。摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》‘It will be as if a friend died,’ says Nontas Papayiannis, a retired lawyer who has visited Mouria almost every day for 20 years. Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian
“来这里是通往放松的途径,”退休演员斯特利奥斯·古蒂斯说。摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》‘A visit here is the route to relaxation,’ said Stelios Goutis, a retired actor. Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian
“这里变化太大了,”阿雷蒂说,“你会觉得自己身在任何地方。”摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》‘So much has changed’ in Exarchia, said Areti. ‘You could be anywhere.’ Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian

每天早上7点,这位沉默寡言的前侍者总是第一个走进这家位于雅典左翼心脏地带埃克萨尔希亚的历史悠久的咖啡馆的人。这是一个他一丝不苟地坚持的仪式,在自己喝第一杯咖啡之前,他就先打开了这个著名的聚会场所的大门。

Every day at 7am, the taciturn former waiter has been the first man to step inside the historic cafe in Exarchia, the heart of leftwing Athens. It is a ritual he has kept punctiliously, opening up the famous gathering place before he himself has had his first coffee.

“我们就像是这里最后的堡垒,”阿雷蒂说。摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》‘We were like the last fortress here,’ Areti said. Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian
穆里亚咖啡馆的关闭象征着希腊传统咖啡馆的衰落。摄影:帕纳约蒂斯·莫斯坎德雷乌/《卫报》Mouria’s closure is emblematic of the decline of traditional coffee houses across Greece. Photograph: Panagiotis Moschandreou/The Guardian
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