
如今,似乎每个人、每个场合都需要羊绒。众多品牌都在销售羊绒毛衣,从布鲁诺·库奇内利(Bruno Cucinelli)7900美元的针织开衫,到昆西(Quince)50美元的圆领毛衣。男装公司洛罗皮亚纳(Loro Piana)将羊绒作为其产品线的基石,帮助推动LVMH旗下该部门的估值超过110亿欧元。甚至还有羊绒跑步衫。
Sometimes it seems like everyone — and every occasion — demands cashmere these days. Numerous brands sell cashmere sweaters, from Bruno Cucinelli’s $7,900 cable knit cardigan to Quince’s $50 crewneck. Menswear company Loro Piana has made cashmere a cornerstone of its lineup, helping to drive the LVMH division’s valuation above €11 billion. There are even cashmere running shirts.
但随着羊绒在时尚界普及,它并非适合所有人。它仍然相对昂贵、难以护理,而且对环境不利。产出羊绒的山羊正在破坏中亚的草场。
But as cashmere has spread throughout the fashion industry, it’s not for everyone. It’s still relatively expensive, hard to care for, and environmental fraught. The goats that produce cashmere have been trashing rangelands across Central Asia.

不过,这种情况可能会改变。我最近体验了一种名为“雷诺亚”(renoa)的替代纤维,由一家名为“永盛”(Everbloom)的初创公司开发,可水洗,并承诺价格更为亲民。它有望通过替代材料,让更多产品和人群享受羊绒体验。
That may change, though. I recently experienced an alternative fiber called renoa, developed by a startup called Everbloom, that’s washable and promises to be more affordable. It could bring the cashmere experience, via a substitute material, to more products and people.
雷诺亚由废弃蛋白质来源制成,包括羊绒和羊毛碎屑,以及床上用品行业剩余的羽绒和羽毛“絮”。永盛将这些废弃物加工成粉末,再与可生物降解的生物聚合物混合,然后将混合物挤出成合适的长度和直径,以模拟特定的天然纤维。
Renoa is made from sources of waste protein, including cashmere and wool scraps as well as down and feather “lint” leftover from the bedding industry. Everbloom processes the waste into a powder and blends it with a biodegradable biopolymer, and the combination is then extruded to the right length and diameter to mimic specific natural fibers.
雷诺亚最近获得美国联邦贸易委员会批准,成为25年来首个新的纤维分类。该委员会负责监管美国的纤维标签。
Renoa was recently approved as the first new fiber classification in 25 years by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, which regulates fiber labeling in the U.S.
永盛开发这种新纤维已有三年,目前正处于扩大规模的过程中。这家初创公司自行开发了一款材料科学人工智能模型,羊绒替代品是其首款产品。
Everbloom has been developing the new fiber for three years, and is currently in the process of scaling up. The startup developed its own AI model for material science, and a cashmere substitute is the first product.
上个月,我造访了永盛位于纽约市的总部,该办公室位于第五大道上方15楼,与布莱恩特公园隔街相望。在那里,联合创始人兼首席执行官西姆·古拉蒂(Sim Gulati)带我参观了一系列由该公司羊绒类雷诺亚制成的产品,包括一件圆领毛衣、一副针织手套和一条围巾。
Last month, I stopped by Everbloom’s headquarters in New York City, which sits 15 floors above 5th Avenue, kitty corner from Bryant Park. There, co-founder and CEO Sim Gulati walked me through a range of products made with its company’s cashmere-like renoa, including a crewneck sweater, a pair of knit gloves, and a scarf.

这件毛衣和手套柔软轻盈,但围巾最为引人注目。它看起来并不起眼,却经历过纯羊绒围巾都无法承受的种种磨难。这是Everbloom为测试renoa而定制的产品,古拉蒂已经穿着并清洗它数月,甚至在见到它之前,它还经历过一次烘干机的翻滚。它没有起球,古拉蒂还说它也没有缩水。
The sweater and gloves were soft and light, but the scarf was the most notable. It didn’t look like much, but it had been through the kind of hell and back that a pure cashmere scarf wouldn’t survive. It was a custom item that Everbloom had knit to test renoa, and Gulati had been wearing and washing it for months, including a trip through the tumble dryer before I saw it. It wasn’t pilled, and Gulati said it hadn’t shrunk, either.
Everbloom目前正与多家公司合作,将renoa应用于消费品。首批产品可能会将renoa作为混纺纤维,例如在一件羊绒毛衣中占据约20%的材料比例。古拉蒂表示,首款产品预计将于2027年第二季度上市。
Everbloom is currently working with a range of companies to get renoa into consumer products. The first are likely to feature renoa as a blended fiber, making up around 20% of the material in a cashmere sweater, for example. The first product is expected to hit the market in the second quarter of 2027 Gulati said.
我触摸的那种80/20羊绒-renoa混纺面料与真品极为接近,古拉蒂表示,商业服装所伴随的额外整理工艺应能消除任何差异,同时不会影响衣物的可水洗性和稳定性。离开后,我一直在想衣柜里哪些物品能从这些特性中受益。当renoa明年上架时,我会留意它。
The 80/20 cashmere-renoa blend that I felt was extremely close to the real thing, and Gulati said that additional finishing that accompanies commercial garments should eliminate any differences without compromising the washability and stability of the garment. After my visit, I kept thinking about various items in my closet that could benefit from those features. When renoa lands on shelves next year, I’ll be keeping an eye out for it.