雅加达——“我们信赖上帝。其他人必须拿数据来。”萨里·查鲁尼萨的Instagram个人资料充分说明了她家族企业的经营理念。将伊斯兰信仰与对严谨研究重要性的坚持相结合，这在很大程度上解释了为何她担任副首席执行官的ParagonCorp（以下简称Paragon）已成为不仅在其本土印度尼西亚，而且在东南亚大部分地区都处于领先地位的美容化妆品公司。
JAKARTA -- "In God we trust. All others must bring data." Sari Chairunnisa's Instagram profile speaks volumes about her family company's business philosophy. Combining her Islamic faith and adherence to the importance of rigorous research, it goes a long way to explaining why ParagonCorp, where she is deputy CEO, has become the leading beauty and cosmetics company not only in its native Indonesia but across much of Southeast Asia.
其旗舰品牌Wardah（阿拉伯语意为“玫瑰”）在Campaign Asia和研究公司Pureprofile的年度研究中，已连续两年被评为东南亚顶级美容品牌。
Its flagship brand, Wardah (which means "rose" in Arabic), has been named Southeast Asia's top beauty brand for the past two years in annual research by Campaign Asia and Pureprofile, a research company.
作为Paragon创始人的女儿，查鲁尼萨也是一名合格医生和执业皮肤科医师。她的哥哥哈曼·苏巴卡特自2019年起担任首席执行官，但查鲁尼萨已成为父母41年前创立的这家公司的代言人和门面。
The daughter of Paragon's founders, Chairunnisa is also a qualified doctor and practicing dermatologist. Her elder brother, Harman Subakat, has been CEO since 2019 but Chairunnisa has become the voice and face of the company their parents founded 41 years ago.
Paragon从无到有，发展到如今占据印度尼西亚约25%的美容市场份额，雇佣员工超过1.7万名——即“Paragonians（帕拉贡人）”。一名女子在雅加达一家门店试用Wardah产品。据调查显示，这个印尼品牌是东南亚最受欢迎的品牌。
Paragon has grown from nothing to commanding about 25% of Indonesia's beauty market, employing more than 17,000 staff -- or "Paragonians." A woman tests Wardah products in a Jakarta store. The Indonesian brand is the most popular in Southeast Asia, according to surveys.
公司财务状况是严守的机密，但其成功的驱动力显而易见。公司始终将自己定位为“清真”企业，意味着产品符合伊斯兰教规。
Company financials are a closely guarded secret but the driver of their success is easy to point to. The company has always marketed itself as a "halal" business, meaning that products comply with Islamic rules.
在拥有世界上最大穆斯林人口国家，这一点至关重要，特别是自1998年已故独裁者苏哈托倒台以来，公开虔诚信教并佩戴吉尔巴布（伊斯兰头巾）的穆斯林女性比例显著增加。
In the nation that is home to the world's largest Muslim-majority population, this has counted for a lot, particularly since the fall of the late dictator Suharto in 1998 when there has been a significant increase in the proportion of Muslim women becoming more openly devout and wearing a jilbab, or Islamic headscarf.
但 Chairunnisa 正在推动一个更宽泛的“清真”定义，以扩大 Wardah 以及 Paragon 旗下其他 14 个品牌的吸引力。“清真即合乎道德，”她在接受《日经亚洲》采访时表示，并强调美妆等领域对这一点的需求“巨大”。“我们看到消费者关心他们使用的产品是否合乎道德，”她说，并提到可持续包装、能源使用、排放和童工等问题是人们认为重要的议题。不过，她并未暗示非清真产品不合乎道德。
But Chairunnisa is pushing a much broader definition of "halal" to extend the appeal of Wardah and Paragon's 14 other brands. "Halal is ethical," she told Nikkei Asia in an interview, stressing that the need for this in sectors such as beauty is "huge." "We see that the consumer is concerned whether the product that they use is ethical," she said, referring to sustainable packaging, energy use, emissions and child labor as issues that people regard as important. However, she did not insinuate that non-halal products are unethical.
ParagonCorp 副首席执行官 Sari Chairunnisa 这一原则也正在影响公司下一步可能拓展的地区。“我们将选择哪个地区更熟悉合乎道德的[活动]，……监管与东南亚相似的地方，”Chairunnisa 说。
Sari Chairunnisa, ParagonCorp Deputy CEO The principle is also influencing where the company might expand to next. "We will choose which region is more familiar with ethical [activities], ... where regulation is similar to Southeast Asia," Chairunnisa said.
除了印度尼西亚，Paragon 宣称其所谓的赋能女性全球行动在澳大利亚、中国、日本、马来西亚、沙特阿拉伯、英国和美国开展。该公司也在孟加拉国和文莱销售产品。上个月，Chairunnisa 在洛杉矶一场知名美妆峰会的小组讨论中发言，其日益提升的知名度由此凸显。
Beyond Indonesia, Paragon advertises its so-called global movement to empower women as being active in Australia, China, Japan, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, the U.K. and the U.S. It also sells in Bangladesh and Brunei. Chairunnisa's growing profile was highlighted last month when she spoke on a panel at a prominent beauty summit in Los Angeles.
这项政策确实引起了消费者的共鸣。35岁的雅加达语言教师Ratih Sekar Mutiara表示，她最近开始喜爱Wardah的Glasting Liquid Lip唇彩系列。“我欣赏Wardah始终坚持清真化妆品的理念，”她说。“这让我们在化妆时感到更舒心、更合乎道德。”
The policy certainly resonates with customers. Ratih Sekar Mutiara, 35, a language teacher in Jakarta, says she has recently taken a liking to Wardah's Glasting Liquid Lip color range. "I appreciate how Wardah consistently embraces the concept of halal cosmetics," she said. "It makes us more comfortable and ethical to wear make-up."
但正如Chairunnisa的Instagram个人资料所证明的，成功取决的远不止道德因素。“质量永远是第一位的，对吧？”她说。“无论你是本土品牌还是外资品牌。如果质量达不到标准，就无法发展壮大。”Chairunnisa的母亲Nurhayati Subakat曾在德国护发公司Wella工作，后自主创业。Chairunnisa毕业于印度尼西亚大学医学院，曾在校内从事研究并在诊所工作积累经验。她于2014年加入Paragon产品开发部，2024年起担任副首席执行官，今年又增任首席研发官。
But, as Chairunnisa's Instagram profile attests, success depends on much more than ethics. "Quality always comes first, right?" she said. "Whether you are local or not. If you don't meet the quality, then you cannot grow." Chairunnisa, whose mother, Nurhayati Subakat worked for German haircare company Wella before starting her own business, graduated from the University of Indonesia's faculty of medicine and gained experience through research at the university and working at a clinic. She joined Paragon's product development department in 2014, has served as deputy CEO since 2024 and added the role of chief research and development officer this year.
正如Campaign Asia/Pureprofile的研究所示，她交出了亮眼的答卷。虽然Wardah的成功植根于印度尼西亚，但它“正在巩固其区域地位，在多个东南亚市场表现优于Vaseline、Dove、Nivea和Olay等全球巨头”。
And, as the Campaign Asia/Pureprofile research showed, she is delivering. While Wardah's success is rooted in Indonesia, it is "consolidating its regional standing, outperforming global giants such as Vaseline, Dove, Nivea and Olay across multiple SE Asian markets."
竞争似乎是Chairunnisa极少担心的事情之一。“我从不把其他品牌或公司视为对手，”她以此外交辞令形容道，“而是将它们视为‘灵感来源’。”
One of the few things Chairunnisa does not seem to worry about is competition. "I never see other brands or other companies as rivals," she says, describing them diplomatically as "a source of inspiration."
“我们看到消费者关心他们使用的产品是否合乎道德。”这其中包括众多中国品牌，如Skintific、Focallure和Y.O.U.。据研究公司Euromonitor International数据，这些品牌在印度尼西亚的市场份额已从2019年的2%增至2024年的15%。
"We see that the consumer is concerned whether the product that they use is ethical." This includes myriad Chinese brands including Skintific, Focallure and Y.O.U., that have increased their market share from 2% in 2019 to 15% in 2024 in Indonesia according to Euromonitor International, a research company.
“我们把美容行业视为一个日益活跃且竞争激烈的格局，”Chairunnisa 说，“品牌正向消费者提供更多创意、创新和视角。”
"We see the beauty industry as an increasingly dynamic and competitive landscape," Chairunnisa said, "with brands bringing more ideas, innovations and perspectives to consumers."
“这就是为什么研究和创新是我们工作的核心，”她说。她指出，从基因组学、微生物组科学、神经科学到多组学的研究能力“帮助我们探索生物、皮肤与环境之间的复杂关系，同时为客户提供解决方案”。她说，问题不在于消费者今天需要什么，“而是他们明天可能需要什么”。Chairunnisa 强调，这其中包括拥抱人工智能。
"This is why research and innovation are at the heart of what we do," she said. The research capabilities ranging from genomics, microbiome science, neuroscience, to multi-omics "help us explore the complex relationship between biology, skin and environment while at the same time providing solutions for our customers." She said the question is not what consumers need today, "but also what they may need tomorrow." That, Chairunnisa stresses, includes embracing artificial intelligence.
当消费者访问网站或药店时，并不总有美容师在场，但他们希望看到唇部和腮红应使用的匹配色号。人工智能可以实现这一点，并且随着每一个额外的人类数据点被捕获，产品推荐会变得更加一致，她说。
When customers go to a website or drug store, a beautician is not always on hand, but they want to see which matching shades should be used for lips and blush. AI can do this, and with every additional human data point captured, the product recommendations become more consistent, she said.
人工智能也被用于 Paragon 的研究实验室。例如，Chairunnisa 说，它可以帮助优化用于彩妆的色素，将新产品的研发时间缩短数年，并显著降低成本。
AI is also being put to use in Paragon's research laboratories. For example, Chairunnisa said it can help optimize the pigments used to color cosmetics, shortening the time it takes to develop new products by years and significantly reducing costs.
“目前我们仍然专注于面部，”她说，但正在向身体和头发领域拓展。她提到最近推出的以头皮为中心的洗发水品牌 DSE Dermascale Expert，该品牌包含发丝精华和护发素。
"Right now we are still focused on the face," she said, but moving on to the body and hair. She mentioned the recent launch of a scalp-focused shampoo brand, DSE Dermascale Expert, which contains hair serum and conditioners.
除了 Wardah，像面向青少年的入门级彩妆品牌 Emina、皮肤科品牌 Labore，以及阿拉伯语意为“洞穴”的男性护理品牌 Kahf 等品牌正开始获得关注。公司计划进一步扩大产品系列。
In addition to Wardah, brands such as Emina -- an entry-level makeup brand for teens -- the dermatological brand Labore and Kahf, a men's grooming brand that means "cave" in Arabic, are beginning to gain traction. There are plans to expand the product range further.
雅加达一家店铺销售 Paragon Corp 的美容品牌，包括 Wardah 和其主要男性产品系列 Kahf。
A Jakarta store selling ParagonCorp beauty brands, including Wardah and Kahf, its main men's product range.
咨询公司贝恩公司消费品合伙人泰隆·阿尔梅达（Tyrone Almeida）在接受《日经亚洲》采访时表示，越来越强调“清洁标签”——即产品在本地采购和制造，使用本地原料，并以符合当地文化的方式进行推广和营销——是像瓦尔达（Wardah）这样的品牌在清真市场中被选择的原因，即便竞争激烈。
Tyrone Almeida, a partner for consumer products at consultancy Bain & Company, told Nikkei Asia that growing emphasis on clean labeling -- meaning products sourced and manufactured locally with local ingredients made and marketed in a culturally relevant way -- is a reason why brands like Wardah are being chosen in the halal market, even with cut-throat competition.
阿尔梅达表示，像瓦尔达这样的品牌早早适应了“众包验证”，利用新兴渠道进行营销和销售，其中包括像Sociolla这样的本地专业美妆渠道。他表示，与过去关注临床声明和大牌明星代言的主流广告不同，瓦尔达的社交媒体渠道拥有数百万粉丝。
Almeida said brands like Wardah have adapted early to "crowd-sourced validation" with emerging channels for both marketing and sales that include local specialty beauty channels like Sociolla Rather than focusing on the clinical claims and mainstream advertising with big celebrities seen in the past, he said Wardah's social media channels command millions of followers.
据阿尔梅达称，“建立其独特的市场定位，而非成为全球品牌的‘跟风版’”，是东南亚的一个重要趋势。随着像帕拉贡（Paragon）这样的本地公司在产品开发、营销策略和人才管理方面变得更加成熟，消费者对本地品牌而非西方品牌的偏好将继续增长。
"Establishing its own unique positioning rather than being a 'me too' version of global brands" is an important trend in Southeast Asia, according to Almeida. Consumer preference for local brands over Western ones will continue to grow as local companies like Paragon become more sophisticated in terms of product development, marketing strategies and talent management.
“无论你是否是本地品牌。如果你不满足质量要求，就无法成长。”
"Whether you are local or not. If you don't meet the quality, then you cannot grow."
帕玛塔银行（Permata Bank）首席经济学家乔苏亚·帕尔德德（Josua Pardede）表示，这些偏好转变可能是有条件的。他说，东南亚最近远离西方品牌的趋势受到地缘政治紧张和消费者抵制的影响，“这未必一定会转化为购买行为的永久性改变。”不过，他表示，消费者当然更愿意根据产品性能、创新性、可负担性和相关性来评估亚洲品牌。
Josua Pardede, chief economist at Permata Bank, said these preference shifts may be conditional. The recent move away from Western brands in Southeast Asia has been influenced by geopolitical tensions and consumer boycotts, he said, "which may not necessarily translate into permanent changes in purchasing behavior." However, he said consumers are certainly more willing to evaluate Asian brands on product performance, innovation, affordability and relevance.
他引用了《亚洲生活方式消费者画像2025》（Asia Lifestyle Consumer Profile 2025）的一项调查，其中81%的东南亚受访者认为本地亚洲品牌在创新和响应本地需求方面更强，而83%表示打算购买更多来自亚洲品牌的奢侈品。
He cited a survey from Asia Lifestyle Consumer Profile 2025, in which 81% of Southeast Asian respondents considered local Asian brands stronger in innovation and responsiveness to local needs, while 83% said they intended to purchase more luxury products from Asian brands.
他表示，归根结底，持续的市场份额增长将取决于区域品牌能否通过品质一致性和产品创新，将消费者最初的兴趣转化为“重复购买”。
Ultimately, he said, sustained market-share gains will depend on whether regional brands can turn initial consumer interest into "repeat purchases" through quality consistency and product innovation.
帕尔德德说：“因此，对于Wardah和其他东南亚美妆企业而言，战略重点应从主要依赖文化认同，转向通过研发、产品差异化、更强的分销能力和运营效率来构建可持续的竞争优势。”
"For Wardah and other Southeast Asian beauty companies, the strategic priority should therefore shift from relying primarily on cultural identity toward building sustainable competitive advantages through research and development, product differentiation, stronger distribution and operational efficiency," Pardede said.