乔治·阿玛尼的商业帝国在设计师去世一年后逐渐成形。他周日预览的最新系列展示了他标志性的优雅风格。
Giorgio Armani’s empire is taking shape a year after the designer’s death. His latest collection, previewed Sunday, showcases his signature elegance.
科琳·巴里（米兰报道）——在乔治·阿玛尼去世一年后，其商业帝国的未来正变得愈发清晰。在米兰的秀场上，他标志性的优雅定义了周日预览的最新系列；而在幕后，根据其遗嘱规定，关于出售部分股权的谈判即将开启。
COLLEEN BARRY MILAN — The future of Giorgio Armani’s empire is coming into sharper focus a year after the designer’s death. On the runway in Milan, his signature elegance defined the latest collection previewed on Sunday, while behind the scenes talks are set to begin on the sale of a stake, as stipulated in his will.
阿玛尼在遗嘱中指定路威酩轩集团（LVMH）、欧莱雅集团（L’Oréal）和依视路陆逊梯卡集团（EssilorLuxottica）为潜在买家，计划在2025年9月4日他以91岁高龄去世后的18个月内出售15%的股权。
Armani gave preference to LVMH, L’Oréal and EssilorLuxottica as potential buyers of a 15% stake to be sold within 18 months of his death on Sept. 4, 2025, at the age of 91.
首席执行官朱塞佩·马索奇（Giuseppe Marsocci）在秀场后台告诉记者，目前并没有所谓的“首选买家”，这部分股权也有可能由这三家公司共同分摊。“并没有规定必须由其中一家买下，”他说道。
Chief Executive Giuseppe Marsocci told reporters backstage at the runway show that there were no favorites and that the stake could potentially be split among all three companies. “It is not written in stone that there has to be one,” he said.
马索奇表示，遗嘱规定只有在阿玛尼去世一周年后才能开始讨论，但他拒绝确认谈判是否已经启动。他表示，关于谈判正在进行的“假设或许有一定逻辑”。
Marsocci said the will allowed discussions to begin only after the first anniversary of Armani’s death but declined to confirm whether they had started. “The assumption” that talks were underway “may have some logic,” he said.
近期，达里奥·维塔莱（Dario Vitale）被任命为乔治·阿玛尼配饰主管及安普里奥·阿玛尼（Emporio Armani）创意总监，这引发了外界对该时装屋创意未来的关注。目前尚未公布他的首秀日期。
The recent appointment of Dario Vitale as head of accessories at Giorgio Armani and creative director of Emporio Armani has generated interest in the fashion house’s creative future. No date has been announced for his runway debut.
当被问及维塔莱的角色是否会进一步扩大时，马索奇表示一切都在演变。“从现在到未来，谁也说不准，”他说。
Asked whether Vitale’s role could expand, Marsocci said everything was evolving. “From here into the future, you never know,” he said.
明年春夏的女装系列刻意将日常装束与晚装风格融合，闪耀元素贯穿始终。修长、流畅的长裤和长裙塑造了整体廓形，并常与硬挺的紧身胸衣搭配。该系列被命名为“演变”（Evolution）。已故设计师的侄女、长期担任女装负责人的西尔瓦娜·阿玛尼（Silvana Armani）表示：“它的演变在于，这是一种每个人都能穿的时装。”
The womenswear collection for next spring and summer deliberately mixed daywear with evening looks, with sparkle running through both. Lean, fluid trousers and long dresses shaped the silhouette, often paired with rigid bodices. The collection was titled “Evolution.” “It evolved in the sense that it is fashion that everyone can wear,” said Silvana Armani, the late designer’s niece and longtime head of womenswear.
她在一个重要方面背离了叔叔的遗产：融入了棉质面料，她说叔叔不喜欢这种材质，但她却“钟爱”它。设计师的存在感在该系列的两件单品中体现得最为强烈：一件是阿玛尼8岁时穿过的正式双排扣圣餐礼服的复刻版，另一件是印有他微笑肖像的图案夹克。
She departed from her uncle’s legacy in one important way: incorporating cotton, a textile that she said he didn’t like but which she “adores.” designer’s presence was most felt in the collection in two pieces: a recreation of the formal double-breasted Communion suit that Armani wore when he was 8-years-old and a graphic jacket bearing his smiling image.