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加沙的巴勒斯坦人通过美食在墨西哥城重建生活Palestinians from Gaza rebuild in Mexico City through food

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墨西哥城,10月2日——对于来自加沙的巴勒斯坦系统工程师穆罕默德·阿贝德来说,巨大的噪音仍然会让他感到焦虑。那些在墨西哥城上空飞过的飞机,以及夏季雷声的轰鸣,总会让他想起2025年以色列对加沙的轰炸行动——那次空袭夺去了他4岁女儿的生命。

MEXICO CITY, Oct 2 - Loud noises still cause anxiety for Mohammed Abed, a Palestinian systems engineer from Gaza. The planes that crisscross the skies of Mexico City and the rumble of summer thunder evoke memories of the 2025 Israeli bombing campaign in Gaza, where an air strike killed his 4-year-old daughter.

这位36岁的男子去年春天与17名家人一起来到墨西哥寻求庇护。如今,每周二清晨,他的生活不再充满对轰炸的恐惧,而是充满了工作。天还没亮,他就会把装有巴勒斯坦特色食品的三轮车装满货物,然后前往首都最国际化的一个社区——康德萨(Condesa),在那里的露天市场出售这些食品。

The 36-year-old arrived in Mexico last spring with 17 family members seeking asylum. These days, Tuesday mornings begin not with fear of bombardment but with work. Before sunrise, he loads his motorized tricycle with Palestinian food to sell at an open-air market in Condesa, one of the capital's most cosmopolitan neighborhoods.

阿贝德是生活在墨西哥的约160名巴勒斯坦人之一;自2023年加沙战争爆发以来,已有近190万巴勒斯坦人流离失所。大多数人仍留在加沙地区,而那些离开的人大多迁居到了邻国埃及和约旦。根据官方数据,自2022年以来,来到墨西哥的巴勒斯坦人数量增加了近一倍。

Abed is one of roughly 160 Palestinians living in Mexico, part of the nearly 1.9 million people displaced from their homes since the war in Gaza began in 2023. Most remain in the territory and many of those who left have resettled in neighboring Egypt and Jordan. But a tiny fraction have made their way to Mexico, helping to roughly double the country's Palestinian population since 2022, according to official figures.

“在加沙,战争期间,只要听到飞机的声音,就意味着随时可能发生可怕的事情,”阿贝德在休息片刻时说道。他正在售卖鹰嘴豆泥、巴巴甘努什(一种中东菜肴)、炸豆丸子、沙瓦玛和烤肉。“这种声音让我想起我们所经历的一切,我的身体会在我反应过来之前就产生恐惧。”阿贝德来到墨西哥的旅程充满了曲折与艰辛。

"In Gaza, during the war, hearing a plane meant that something terrible could happen at any moment," Abed said during a break from selling hummus, baba ganoush, falafel, shawarma and kebab. "The sound makes me remember everything we went through, and my body reacts before I can even think." Abed's path to Mexico was winding.

他的旅程始于他的父亲卡马尔·阿贝德——这位巴勒斯坦人十多年前为了逃离加沙的冲突而移民到了墨西哥,并最终获得了墨西哥国籍。加沙战争爆发后,卡马尔开始努力帮助家人离开那里。

It started with his father, Kamal Abed, a Palestinian who emigrated to Mexico more than a decade ago to escape the conflict in Gaza and eventually obtained Mexican citizenship. After the war's outbreak in Gaza, Kamal launched a campaign to get his family out of the enclave.

2024年,卡马尔前往埃及试图安排全家撤离,但在手续尚未办妥时便因心脏病发作去世。随后,阿贝德的兄弟沙迪接手此事,在墨西哥民间组织和移民律师的协助下,成功为包括数名儿童在内的18名家庭成员争取到了出境许可。

In 2024, Kamal traveled to Egypt to try to arrange their evacuation, but died of a heart attack before he could complete the process. Another son, Abed's brother Shadi, took up the effort and, with the support of civil organizations and asylum lawyers in Mexico, secured travel authorization for 18 family members, including several children.

经过数月的文书办理与协商后,这家人终于离开加沙,先进入约旦,再经土耳其,最终于2025年5月抵达墨西哥城。如今,他们全家均已获得永久居留权。

After months of paperwork and negotiations to leave Gaza, the family crossed into Jordan, passed through Turkey, and finally arrived in Mexico City in May 2025, where they have all obtained permanent residency.

“我不关心政治,”阿贝德说道,“我只想像其他人一样,平静地生活。”渐渐地,阿贝德凭借出色的厨艺和感人的身世故事赢得了众多顾客的青睐。每逢周日,他会在墨西哥城的另一处市场售卖食品;不在市场的时候,他便协助妻子筹备各类巴勒斯坦特色宴席,供特殊场合使用。

"I don't like politics," Abed said. "I want to live, like everyone else, in peace." Little by little, Abed has become known among customers who enjoy his dishes and are moved by his story. On Sundays, he sells his products at another market in Mexico City, and when he's not there, helps his wife prepare Palestinian food banquets she caters for special occasions.

阿贝德的弟弟法迪同样在墨西哥城售卖巴勒斯坦美食。他性格开朗活泼,在Instagram上以“hijo.de.palestina”(巴勒斯坦之子)为账号名,发布了大量用带着浓重口音的西班牙语介绍自己食品生意的视频,如今已拥有4.8万名粉丝。

Abed's younger brother, Fadi, also sells Palestinian food in Mexico City. With his exuberant personality, he has built a following of 48,000 on Instagram under the handle hijo.de.palestina ("son of Palestine"), posting videos of his growing food business in heavily accented Spanish.

阿贝德的家人还在不断增多。他正努力将两位姐妹从加沙接来。今年5月,他的小儿子优素福在墨西哥城出生,自然而然地成为了墨西哥公民。

Abed's family keeps expanding. He is trying to bring his two sisters from Gaza. And in May, his youngest son, Yusuf, was born in Mexico City, automatically making him a Mexican citizen.

“他虽生于墨西哥,心中却始终铭记着加沙的根基,”阿贝德说道。

"He was born in Mexico but carries the roots of Gaza in his heart," Abed said.