字号·· | 护眼
半岛电视台

“忍饥挨饿”:孟加拉国服装工人称工资勉强维持生计‘Going hungry’: Garment workers in Bangladesh say wages barely cover needs

点「原文对照」整页切到原文,或双击某段只看那段的原文。

工人在孟加拉国达卡郊外萨瓦尔的一家服装厂操作缝纫机,摄于2026年9月17日。[Mohammad Ponir Hossain/路透社]Workers operate sewing machines at a garment factory in Savar, on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, on September 17, 2026 [Mohammad Ponir Hossain/Reuters]

莱莉·贝古姆已无力供养两个孩子上学。这位37岁的服装工人甚至有日子连一顿像样的饭都难以端上桌。

– Laili Begum can no longer afford to keep her two children in school. There are days when the 37-year-old garment worker struggles to put even one proper meal on the table.

作为达卡附近成衣厂“Virtual Bottoms Limited”的资深缝纫工,贝古姆月薪约1.5万塔卡(约合121美元),加班时有时能增至1.8万至2万塔卡(约合145至161美元)。

An experienced sewing operator at Virtual Bottoms Limited, a ready-made garments factory near Bangladesh’s capital Dhaka, Begum earns around 15,000 taka ($121) a month, which sometimes rises to 18,000–20,000 taka ($145–$161) when she works overtime.

她15岁的女儿和12岁的儿子今年早些时候因她负担不起学费而辍学。

Her 15-year-old daughter and 12-year-old son dropped out of school earlier this year because she could not afford their education.

“我们勉强只能维持一天一顿像样的饭。今天早饭只吃了膨化米和孟买混合零食[一种小吃]。午饭没东西吃。我们忍饥挨饿,指望晚上能吃顿像样的。昨天也是这样。我们现在就是这样熬日子,”她对半岛电视台说。

“We can barely afford one proper meal a day. This morning, we had only puffed rice and Bombay mix [a snack]. There was nothing for lunch. We’ve been going hungry, hoping to have a proper meal tonight. Yesterday was the same. This is how we survive now,” she told Al Jazeera.

“儿子瘦得胸口每根肋骨都数得清。我还能怎么办?”贝古姆是孟加拉国约400万服装厂工人中的一员,其中一半是女性。她们正在为提高工资而抗议。孟加拉国是仅次于中国的世界第二大服装出口国,是H&M、Zara、李维斯、沃尔玛和Primark等全球时尚品牌的关键供应国。该国成衣行业占出口收入的80%以上,上一财年出口额达390亿美元。

“My son is so thin that you can count every rib in his chest. What else can I do?”Begum is among approximately four million garment factory workers in Bangladesh, half of them women. They are now protesting for better wages Bangladesh, the world’s second-largest apparel exporter after China, is a key supplier to global fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, Levi Strauss, Walmart, and Primark. The country’s ready-made garment sector accounts for more than 80 percent of its export earnings, which touched $39bn last financial year.

然而,缝制这些衣服的人说,工资已不足以支付基本生活开销。“政府只会许愿”这个拥有1.7亿人口的南亚穆斯林占多数国家,其服装业工资水平在全球服装生产国中属于最低行列。

Yet, the people sewing those clothes say their pay no longer covers basic living costs. ‘Government only makes promises’A Muslim-majority South Asian nation of 170 million people, Bangladesh has one of the world’s lowest wages among apparel-producing countries.

柬埔寨服装工人月最低工资为210美元,越南为140至210美元,而中国制造业中心广东的工资区间为286至378美元。

Cambodia has a minimum wage of $210 a month for garment workers, Vietnam’s range from $140-$210, while wages at China’s manufacturing hub of Guangdong range between $286 and $378.

这种差距——因通胀上升和生活成本不断增加而加剧——促使工人们于周六举行罢工并走上街头,要求将最低工资定为3万塔卡(约合241美元),这比目前1.25万塔卡(约合102美元)的工资高出一倍多。

That disparity – worsened by rising inflation and the growing cost of living – pushed the workers to strike and hit the streets on Saturday to demand a minimum wage of 30,000 taka ($241), more than double the current wage of 12,500 taka ($102).

周日,贝古姆参加了首都达卡郊外阿舒利亚工业区贾姆戈拉地区的一次此类抗议活动,警方发射催泪瓦斯和闪光弹驱散抗议者,并逮捕了数十人。

On Sunday, Begum joined one such protest in the Jamgora part of the Ashulia industrial area on the outskirts of the capital Dhaka, with the police firing tear gas and stun grenades to disperse the protesters, and arresting dozens of them.

一辆警车在孟加拉国达卡服装工人抗议要求提高工资期间被纵火焚烧,2026年11月1日摄 [Jannatul Ferdaus/路透社] 孟加拉国服装制造商和出口商协会表示,示威活动导致周日529家工厂停工,影响近百万工人。

A police vehicle burns after garment workers set it on fire during a protest demanding higher wages in Dhaka, Bangladesh, November 1, 2026 [Jannatul Ferdaus/Reuters] The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association said the demonstrations disrupted operations at 529 factories on Sunday and affected nearly a million workers.

当天晚些时候,政府宣布成立一个由六名成员组成的工资委员会,审议工人的诉求。但这并未阻止服装工人周一连续第三天重返街头。

Later that day, the government announced the formation of a six-member wage board to review the workers’ demands. But that did not stop the garment workers from returning to the streets for a third straight day on Monday.

一辆警车在达卡燃烧,这是服装工人在抗议要求提高工资时纵火焚烧的,摄于2026年11月1日。[Jannatul Ferdaus/路透社]A police vehicle burns after garment workers set it on fire during a protest demanding higher wages in Dhaka, Bangladesh, November 1, 2026 [Jannatul Ferdaus/Reuters]

在达卡北部的加齐普尔地区,工人们封锁了达卡-坦盖尔公路,并破坏焚烧了多辆车辆,邻近的米尔普尔区也传出了与警方发生冲突的报道。

In northern Dhaka’s Gazipur area, the workers blocked the Dhaka-Tangail highway, and vandalised and torched several vehicles, while clashes with police were reported from the neighbouring Mirpur district.

“政府只会许愿,”贝古姆告诉半岛电视台。“他们没告诉我们工资何时上涨、涨多少。” 通胀吞噬工资 30岁的阿舒利亚服装工人拉塞尔·汗告诉半岛电视台,他包括加班费在内的月收入为1.8万至2万塔卡(约合145至161美元),已不足以养活包括母亲、弟弟在内的全家,还有妻子和孩子。

“The government only makes promises,” Begum told Al Jazeera. “They haven’t told us when wages will increase and by how much.”Inflation eating into wages Rasel Khan, a 30-year-old garment worker at Ashulia, told Al Jazeera his monthly earnings of 18,000–20,000 taka ($145–$161), including overtime, were no longer enough to support his family, which included his mother and younger brother besides his wife and child.

随着生活成本飙升,他已欠下约10万塔卡(约合805美元)的债务以维持生计。“靠这点收入养家已经不可能了。物价不断上涨,我们不得不借钱才能活下去,”他说。

As living costs soar, he has accumulated a debt of about 100,000 taka ($805) to meet his needs. “It’s impossible to support a family on this income anymore. Prices keep rising, and we have to borrow money just to survive,” he said.

服装行业最低工资上一次调整是在2023年12月。从那时起,物价持续上涨。官方数据显示,9月年通胀率为8.34%,其中食品类为7.22%,非食品类为9.30%。

The last revision of the minimum wage in the garment sector took place in December 2023. Since then, prices have continued to climb. Official data put annual inflation at 8.34 percent in September, including 7.22 percent for food and 9.30 percent for non-food expenses.

贝古姆说,她和母亲、孩子挤在一间单人房里,每月房租3500塔卡(约合28美元)。住在中部锡拉杰甘杰县老家的父亲也靠她的收入生活。

Begum says she pays 3,500 taka ($28) as rent for a single room shared with her mother and children. Her father, living in their village in the central district of Sirajganj, also depends on her income.

她说,因为买不起约2200塔卡(约合18美元)一瓶的燃气罐,只能烧废纸和其他材料做饭。

She says she is burning discarded paper and other materials to cook because she is not able to afford a gas cylinder that costs about 2,200 taka ($18).

世界银行达卡办事处前首席经济学家扎希德·侯赛因表示,过去五年持续的通胀严重削弱了低薪工人的购买力。

Zahid Hussain, a former lead economist at the World Bank’s Dhaka office, said persistent inflation over the past five years has sharply eroded the purchasing power of low-paid workers.

“当实际收入下降时,他们不得不降低日常生活水平,”他告诉半岛电视台。“他们没有任何盈余收入。”侯赛因说,政府近期上调公务员工资,在等待类似缓解措施的私营部门工人中产生了“示范效应”。

“When real income falls, they have to cut their daily living standards,” he told Al Jazeera. “They don’t have any surplus income.”Hussain said a recent hike in the salary of government employees has had a “demonstration effect” among private-sector workers waiting for a similar relief.

政府宣布成立工资委员会,此前刚修改劳动法,将工资审查周期从五年缩短至三年。目前的三年周期将于12月结束。

The government’s announcement of a wage board follows an amendment to labour laws to reduce the wage review cycle from five years to three years. The current three-year period ends in December.

总理塔里克·拉赫曼周日召集高级政府官员紧急会议,内政部长萨拉胡丁·艾哈迈德周一会见服装厂主,向他们保证新最低工资将通过谈判确定。

Prime Minister Tarique Rahman convened an emergency meeting of top government officials on Sunday, while Home Minister Salahuddin Ahmed met the garment factory owners on Monday, assuring them that a new minimum wage would be fixed through negotiations.

劳工部长阿里富尔·哈克·乔杜里则敦促工人复工,称工资委员会将很快开始审议。

Labour Minister Ariful Haque Choudhury meanwhile urged the workers to resume work, saying the wage board would begin its deliberations shortly.

但工资委员会工人代表巴布尔·阿克特要求新工资自2027年1月工资起生效。他还呼吁示威者复工,并要求释放被捕工人、撤销针对他们的案件。

But Babul Akhter, a workers’ representative on the board, called for the new wages to take effect with January 2027 salaries. He also asked the demonstrators to return to work and demanded the release of arrested workers and withdrawal of cases against them.

2026年11月1日,达卡,服装工人在抗议活动中与警察发生冲突。[Jannatul Ferdaus/路透社] 即将到来的工资谈判正值孟加拉国服装行业面临挑战之际,制造商们在平衡工人要求提高工资的诉求与不断上升的生产成本以及日益激烈的全球竞争。

Garment workers clash with police during a protest in Dhaka, November 1, 2026 [Jannatul Ferdaus/Reuters] The impending wage negotiations come at a challenging time for Bangladesh’s garment industry, as manufacturers balance workers’ demands for better wages with rising production costs and intensifying global competition.

服装工人在达卡与警方发生冲突,摄于2026年11月1日。[Jannatul Ferdaus/路透社]Garment workers clash with police during a protest in Dhaka, November 1, 2026 [Jannatul Ferdaus/Reuters]

孟加拉国服装制造商与出口商协会官员、Cute Dress Industry Ltd董事总经理Sheikh Hossain Muhammad Mustafiz告诉半岛电视台,公平工资与就业保障必须与他们在国际市场上的竞争能力齐头并进。

Sheikh Hossain Muhammad Mustafiz, an official at Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and managing director of Cute Dress Industry Ltd, told Al Jazeera that fair wages and employment security must go hand in hand with their ability to compete in the international market.

他说:“工人理应获得能维持体面生活水平的工资。然而,如果没有国际品牌给出公平的采购价格,大幅提高工资可能会给工厂带来压力,并威胁就业。”

“Workers deserve wages that support a decent standard of living. However, without fair purchasing prices from international brands, significant wage increases could put pressure on factories and threaten employment,” he said.

Mustafiz强调,在通胀上升的背景下保护工人的购买力,是购买孟加拉国服装的全球品牌必须承担的责任。“仅靠制造商无法实现可持续的工资增长,”他说。“国际品牌必须通过公平定价和负责任的采购实践做出贡献,以保护工人的生计和行业的长期可持续性。”

Mustafiz emphasised that protecting the workers’ purchasing power amid rising inflation is a responsibility that global brands that buy Bangladeshi garments must“Sustainable wage growth cannot be achieved by manufacturers alone,” he said. “International brands must contribute through fair pricing and responsible purchasing practices to protect both the workers’ livelihoods and the industry’s long-term sustainability.”

牛津大学Tech Global Institute高级研究员Taqbir Huda指责购买孟加拉国服装的西方品牌未解决工人权益问题。

Taqbir Huda, a Tech Global Institute senior fellow at the University of Oxford, accused the western brands who buy Bangladeshi garments of not addressing the issue of the workers’ rights.

他告诉半岛电视台:“唯一能一夜之间改变局势的一方,扮演了最具榨取性和剥削性的角色:掌握这些工人生产的服装所创造价值中最大份额的西方买家品牌。”

“One party that could change the situation overnight has held the most extractive and exploitative role: the western buyer brands who hold the lion’s share of the value that is generated by the clothes that these workers produce,” he told Al Jazeera.

Huda表示,本应在今年召开的工资委员会,直到工人开始抗议后才宣布成立。

Huda said the wage board, which was due this year, was announced only after the workers began their protest.

“历史给工人们的理由很少,让他们相信不抗议情况就会好转,”他说,并补充道,除非工资委员会的成立能解决不断上涨的通胀和生活成本危机,否则无法满足他们的诉求。

“History gives very little reason for the workers to believe anything will improve unless they protest,” he said, adding that the formation of the wage board does not meet their demands unless it addresses rising inflation and the cost-of-living crisis.

对贝古姆来说,决定新工资的漫长过程意味着还要再挣扎一个月来养家糊口。“工资必须涨,但食品价格也必须降下来。”

For Begum, a drawn-out process to decide the new wages means another month of struggle to feed her family. “Wages must rise, but food prices must also come down.”

阅读媒体原文 ↗