巴黎 —— 我站在巴黎东部街道中央，四周大多是戴着面具的抗议者，突然感到喉咙灼烧。仿佛毫无征兆，我开始剧烈咳嗽，喉咙仿佛要闭合。那是当晚发射的第一枚催泪弹。我慌忙从背包里掏出防毒面具 —— 一整天我都背着它，参加了此前一直大规模且和平的游行。
PARIS — I was standing in the middle of the street in east Paris, surrounded by mostly masked protesters, when my throat started suddenly burning. Out of seemingly nowhere, I was coughing uncontrollably and felt my throat closing up. That was the first tear gas fired of the night. I hurriedly reached for the gas mask I’d carried in my backpack the whole day throughout what up to that point had been a large but peaceful march.
周六的抗议活动是巴黎的主场游行，从意大利门出发，那是塞纳河左岸一个以居民区为主的街区。警方在周五深夜临时更改了获批路线，称原定从巴士底广场经民族广场穿越巴黎市中心的路线将难以维安。
Saturday’s protest, the main one in Paris, started at the Porte d’Italie, a largely residential neighborhood on the left bank of the Seine. Police changed the approved route at the eleventh hour Friday night, saying the original one, meant to go from Place de La Bastille through Place de la Nation in central Paris, would be too difficult to secure.
确实，沿着这条新路线，几乎没有商铺供抗议者洗劫，不像前一个周末那样出名。取而代之的多是工薪阶层居住的高层公寓楼，住户们不习惯在这一带见到政治行动，纷纷走到阳台上，有的手里还夹着烟，探望穿行而过的数万示威者。
And indeed, along this new route, there were barely any shops for the protesters to loot, as they had famously done the weekend before. Instead were mostly working-class high-rise apartment buildings, where residents, not used to seeing political action in this part of town, came out on their balconies, some with a cigarette in hand, to peek at the tens of thousands marching through.
历经近三小时抵达终点万森门时，防暴警察和宪兵明确表明 —— 不像上周末警方应对备受批评 —— 这一次由他们掌控局面，每当人群显得即将失控，他们就向前推进。
By the time it reached its end point, after nearly three hours, at Porte de Vincennes, riot and military police were making clear that – unlike the previous weekend where the police response was criticized – they were the ones calling the shots this time, advancing on the crowd whenever it looked like it would get out of control.
随后近一个小时局势依然有序 —— 人群高呼口号，有人跳跃起舞 —— 我们琢磨着是否该移动去看看城市其他地方的情况。
And things remained orderly for nearly another hour – people were chanting, some were jumping and dancing – and we wondered whether we should move to see what was happening in other parts of the city.
更多关于困扰法国街头骚乱的报道 法国抗议实时更新：骚乱在法国各地爆发，抗议者挤满街道、袭击警察 极左翼暴徒向警察投掷石块，巴黎陷入混乱 欧洲陷入围攻，示威者在整个大陆各城市与警察对峙、纵火 由于城市骚乱演变成混乱，巴黎NFL House在圣徒队对钢人队比赛前关闭 但随后，当许多和平抗议者正登上地铁准备回家时，另一批人刚刚抵达。这批晚到的人群看起来截然不同。他们的脸被遮住，已佩戴防毒面具，手中没有举着任何标明诉求的标语，行动起来仿佛有备而来。
More coverage of the riots plaguing France’s streets France protests live updates: Riots break out across France as protesters pack streets, attack police Far-left rioters throw rocks at cops as Paris descends into chaos Europe falls under siege as demonstrators battle police, set fires in cites across continent NFL House in Paris closes ahead of Saints-Steelers game as unrest in city turns into chaos But then, as many of these peaceful protesters were hopping on the metro to head on home, others were just arriving. And this late crowd looked different. Their faces were covered, gas masks were already on, they weren’t carrying any signs showing which cause they were fighting for and they moved like they had a purpose.
随之而来的是一声震耳欲聋的巨响，听起来像枪声。随后几秒内又响起数声，轻易有半打之多。
Then it came, a deafening bang that sounded like gunfire. And several more, easily half a dozen, within a few seconds.
在蒙面暴徒向警察投掷石块和烟花后，警方发射了催泪瓦斯和震爆弹。
Police had unleashed tear gas and sound grenades after the masked rioters hurled rocks and fireworks at them.
持续数小时、蜿蜒穿过巴黎的和平游行突然演变成暴力冲突，烟雾笼罩街道，警察竭力将蒙面暴徒推回。
The peaceful march that had wound through Paris for hours had suddenly descended into violence, with clouds of smoke engulfing the streets and police struggling to force the masked mob back.