加沙/开罗，10月14日——60岁的海达尔·阿布·米达因（Haidar Abu Middain）在一片曾经是加沙中部最繁茂的橄榄园之一的贫瘠土地上，拾起一根落下的橄榄树干枯树枝，将其扔到一旁。
GAZA/CAIRO, Oct 14 - Haidar Abu Middain, 60, lifts a desiccated bough of a fallen olive tree and tosses it aside in the barren dirt of what was once one of the most prosperous groves in central Gaza.
这片他与兄弟叔伯共同拥有的家族橄榄园曾经占地900公亩——即220英亩——园内的树木在每年的这个时候本该挂满成熟的果实。
The family olive orchard he owned with his brothers and his uncles used to span 900 dunums — 220 acres — of trees that this time of year would be heavy with ripe fruit.
整个家族都会出来收割庄稼——1100吨到1500吨的橄榄堆满箩筐，一部分作为鲜果出售，其余则压榨出足够的芳香橄榄油，装满多达900个通常容量为16升的油桶。
The whole clan would come out to gather the harvest — 1,100 to 1,500 tons of olives piled in bushels — some to be sold as fruit, the rest pressed into enough fragrant oil to fill as many as 900 of the 16-litre drums in which it is typically sold.
如今，这片果园近一半的土地位于被以色列军队把守的“黄线”之外，以军禁止巴勒斯坦人进入加沙地带三分之二的地区。果园的另一半虽然还能进入，但也大面积遭到推平。
Today, nearly half of the orchard lies beyond the "yellow line" guarded by Israeli troops who bar Palestinians from even entering two-thirds of the Gaza Strip. The other half of the grove, though still accessible, has mostly been bulldozed.
只有大约20到30棵树不知何故依然挺立。阿布·米达因估计，它们只能产出两桶油，甚至连他自己的家庭都不够用。
Only around 20 or 30 trees are somehow still standing. Abu Middain reckons they will produce just two drums of oil, not even enough for his own family.
他对路透社表示：“战前的收成是受庇佑的，足以维持我们家人的生计。这里的收成过去足以供应整个中部地区的橄榄和橄榄油。”珍贵作物与避难所战争爆发前，橄榄是加沙农业的明珠，被压榨成充足而浓郁的橄榄油，成为当地饮食的主食，并有一小部分盈余出口到以色列。这些毗邻加沙混凝土城市的阴凉树林，是这个世界上人口最稠密的地区之一中各个家庭的避难所。
"The produce before the war was blessed, it was enough to earn a livelihood for our families," he told Reuters. "The harvest from here used to be enough to supply the entire central area, with both oil and olives." PRIZE CROP AND SANCTUARY Before the war, olives were the jewels of Gaza agriculture, pressed into enough rich oil to serve as a staple for the local diet, and a small surplus for export to Israel. The shady groves abutting Gaza's concrete cities were a sanctuary for families in one of the world's most densely populated territories.
但在结束主要战斗的停火协议达成一年后，这些曾经令人骄傲的果园几乎全被推平。
But a year after a ceasefire ended major fighting, almost all of the once-proud orchards are bulldozed under.
加沙农业当局估计，在200万棵橄榄树中，仅存的树木勉强达到15万棵。他们预计今年的橄榄产量约为5000吨，而不是通常的4万吨，产油量也仅为700吨，而往常为5000吨。
Gaza's agriculture authorities estimate that of 2 million olive trees, barely 150,000 are still standing. They anticipate a harvest of about 5,000 tons of olives instead of the usual 40,000, producing only 700 tons of oil instead of 5,000.
通常情况下，加沙的市场在这一时节会堆满橄榄和刚压出的橄榄油桶。
THERE'S ZERO Bushels of olives and drums of freshly pressed oil would normally be stacked high in Gaza's markets this time of year.
如今几乎没有了，而少量进入市场的橄榄油售价约为战前的三倍，每桶近500美元，远超加沙家庭的承受能力，迪尔·巴拉赫市场的购物者伊马德·阿尔-阿杰拉米（Imad al-Ajrami），33岁，如是说。
Nowadays there is barely any at all, and what does make it to market sells at around triple the pre-war price, nearly $500 a drum, well beyond what Gazan families can afford, said Imad al-Ajrami, 33, a shopper in Deir al-Balah market.
当局表示，目前仅有七家橄榄油压榨机仍在运作，战前约有40家。它们几乎无法正常运转，迪尔·巴拉赫仍在经营压榨机的法瓦兹·扎丹（Fawaz Zidan）如此说道。
Authorities say only seven olive oil presses are still operating, down from about 40 before the war. They are barely functioning, said Fawaz Zidan, who has kept his press open in Deir al-Balah.
“与战前相比，现在为零。因为没有橄榄，所有橄榄树都被推平了，橄榄都没了，”他说，当时有少数居民拿着塑料油桶排队，从压榨机的出油口收集新鲜橄榄油。
"Compared to years before the war, there's zero. Because there are no olives, all of it has been bulldozed, the olives are gone," he said as a handful of residents queued with plastic jerrycans to collect fresh oil from the spigot of the press.
在迪尔·巴拉赫，这是加沙中部一个微小的地区，以色列军方在此宣布为安全区并在战争期间未发动冲击，加沙仅存的少数橄榄林之一仍在收获季节为哈利勒·曼西（Khalil Mansi）及其家人提供庇护所。
In Deir al-Balah, a tiny part of central Gaza that Israeli forces declared a safe zone and held off from storming during the war, one of Gaza's few remaining olive groves still serves as a sanctuary at harvest time for Khalil Mansi and his family.
他们当时正在采摘青橄榄，橄榄从枝头落下时啪嗒啪嗒作响，落在铺在下面的白色布料上。赤脚的男孩爬上梯子去够更高的枝条。女孩们坐在下面，从叶子和小枝中挑选橄榄。后来，一家人在树荫下野餐。
They were out gathering the green olives, the fruit pitter-pattering as it fell from the branches onto a white cloth laid out below. Barefoot boys climbed ladders to reach the higher branches. Girls sat below sorting the olives from leaves and twigs. Later the family sat for a picnic in the shade.
艾哈迈德·哈德尔（Ahmed Khader），38岁，出来参加这次罕见的一天劳动。过去，这个季节能让像他这样的劳工就业两到三个月，他说。如今他很高兴能拿到一天的工资。
Ahmed Khader, 38, had come out for a rare day of work on the harvest. In the old days, the season would keep a labourer like him employed for two or three months, he said. Now he was grateful for a day's pay.
“但我们仍得为孩子们提供食物，我们也想努力谋得温饱。”路透社
"But we still have to provide for our children with a bite to eat, and we want to try to get our daily bread." REUTERS